The outfit required is a tennis ball, a broom stick and four rafts-one large and three small. The batsman and catcher stand on the big raft. On a small raft, ten yards away, stands Water Baseball the pitcher and the other two rafts are placed at easy swimming distance for bases. In striking, everything counts-bunt, swat or foul tip. The moment bat and ball come in contact the batsman starts for first base. There are five men on a side. Lots of fun. Avoid remaining in fresh water too long as it has a tendency to weaken vitality.

The contestants are dressed in a full suit of old clothes. At the word "go" Old Clothes Race they dive into the water and swim to a float placed at a certain distance away, undress and return. This is a very funny race.

Two boats manned by four boys each. One boy is the spearman and is armed with a light pole about eight or ten feet long, having a soft pad of rags, or better yet, of water-proof canvas duck to keep it from getting wet and soggy. If a flat-bot

tom boat is used, the spearman stands on Tilting one of the end seats. A quarter-deck or raised platform should be built on an ordinary boat or canoe. The battle is fought in rounds and by points. If you put your opponent back into the boat with one foot it counts you 5; two feet, 10. If he loses his spear you count 5 (except when he is put overboard). If you put him down on one knee on the "fighting deck," you count

5; two knees, 10. If you put him board it counts 25. One hundred points is a round. A battle is for one or more rounds as agreed upon. It is forbidden to strike below the belt. The umpire may dock for fouls.

Any number of canoes or boats may engage in this water game. A rubber football is

Canoe Tag used. The game is to tag the other canoe or boat by throwing this into it. The rules are as in ordinary cross tag.

oarsmen.

The "whale" is made of a big log of wood with a rough-shaped head and tail to represent a whale. Two boats are used, each manned by the boys of one tent-the leader acting as captain, a boy as bowman or harpooner, the others as Each boat belongs to a different harbor, the two harbors being some distance apart. The umpire takes the "whale" and lets it loose Whale Hunt about half-way between the two harbors and on a signal the two boats race out to see who can get to the "whale" first. The harpooner who first arrives within range of the "whale" drives his harpoon into it and the boat promptly turns around and tows the "whale" to its harbor. The second boat pursues and when it overtakes the other, also harpoons the "whale," turns around and endeavors to tow the "whale" to its harbor. In this way the two boats have a tugof-war and eventually the better boat tows the "whale" and possibly the opposing boat into its harbor.

A "Shoot-the-Chute" is great fun and one should

Ex 3 Rounded Edge

SHEET ZINC

<LENGTH 40'

PLATFORM

DIAGRAM FOR "CHUTE'

be built in every permanent camp and "Swimming Hole." The one described is by A. D. Murray and has stood the test of several years in a number of camps.

The plan drawn is for a chute 40 feet long, 3 feet wide and 18 feet high. These dimensions can be changed in length and height, but not in width. The chute is built of 8-inch matched pine boards, to the same width as sheet zinc, usually 3 feet; the boards being firmly cleated together on the under side by 2 x 6-inch cleats 5 feet apart, throughout the length of the chute. Boards should be screwed to the cleats from the face of the chute with 12inch screws, the heads being counter sunk. The several lengths of zinc are soldered into one piece, the joints being on the under Shoot-the-Chute side (as shingles on a roof) fastened to the boards with 8-oz.

tacks; set in from the edge about 1 inch and about

6 inches apart. The side strips of maple (soft wood will not do on account of the danger of splintering) 2 inches wide and 3 inches high, rounded slightly on upper edge, are placed directly over the edge of the zinc and covering the tacks. Screw the strips firmly to the chute with 2-inch screws from the under side. These ought to be placed not more than 2 feet apart. Probably each will have two or more strips in making a piece of sufficient length. If so, care should be taken to have the pieces joined on a bevel with a slant from outer edge toward bottom of chute so as to leave no edge. The utmost care should be used to have a perfectly smooth surface on the inside of the chute. A pump or bucket is needed at the top of the chute to wet the surface before the swimmer starts his slide. The supports A, B, C, should be firmly braced with 2 x 4-inch timber, D, and lower end of chute should extend over the pier at least 1 foot and not nearer the surface of the water than 3 feet perpendicularly, allowing the swimmer to enter the water as in a dive. The chute can be fastened to the supporting braces through timbers E, F, into maple side strips with a good heavy log screw. A platform 3 feet wide and 4 feet long near the top of chute, and set just waist deep from the top of chute will make starting easy.

Richard the Lion-hearted, of England, said the five essential points of archery-standArchery ing, nocking, drawing, holding, and loosing honestly represented all the principles of life."

Archery develops the muscles in all-round fashion, particularly those of the shoulder, arm and wrist.

A target can be made of a burlap sack, or oil cloth, about five feet square. Stuff this with hay or straw. It may be flattened by a few quilting stitches put right through with a long packing needle. On this the target is painted. The Target In scoring, the centre is 9, the next circle 7, the next 5, the next 3 and the last circle 1. The shortest match range for the target is forty yards.

The bow may be made from any of the following woods-mulberry, sassafras, southern cedar, black locust, black walnut, apple, slippery elm or hickory. In making a bow, select wood with straight grain. The length of the bow should be about The Bow the height of the boy using it, or if the boy is between ten and fifteen years of age, his bow should not be less than four feet in length and not more than five feet. When buying a bow get one of lancewood backed with hickory.

The making of the bow and arrow is described by A. Neeley Hall, as follows: "Cut your piece of wood five feet long, and, after placing it in a bench vise to hold it in position, shape it down with a drawknife or plane until it is one inch wide by one-half inch thick at the handle, and three

Making a Bow quarters inch wide by one-quarter inch thick at the ends. The bow can be made round or flat on the face toward the archer. Cut a notch in the bow two inches from