GEORGE GORDON NOEL BYRON. 395 a single mind upon a nation,-to infuse left Malta in the Spider, a brig of war, on strength into thoughts, and depth into feel- the 21st of September, and arrived in eight ings, which shall command the homage of days at Previsa. I thence have been about enlightened men in every age,-in short, to 150 miles, as far as Tepaleen, his highness's be a Bruce, Bonaparte, Luther, Knox, De- country palace, where I staid three days. mosthenes, Shakspeare, Milton, or Cromwell. The name of the pacha is Ali, and he is con-a large brain is indispensably requisite. sidered a man of the first abilities; he govBut to display skill, enterprise, and fidelity erns the whole of Albania (the ancient Ilin the various professions of civil life, lyricum), Epirus, and part of Macedonia. to cultivate with success the less arduous His son, Velly Pacha, to whom he has given branches of philosophy,-to excel in acute- me letters, governs the Morea, and he has ness, taste, and felicity of expression,-to great influence in Egypt; in short, he is one acquire extensive erudition and refined man- of the most powerful men in the Ottoman ners,—a brain of a moderate size is perhaps empire. When I reached Yanina, the capmore suitable than one that is very large: for ital, after a journey of three days over the wherever the energy is intense, it is rare that mountains, through a country of the most delicacy, refinement, and taste are present in picturesque beauty, I found that Ali Pacha an equal degree. Individuals possessing was with his army in Illyricum, besieging moderate-sized brains easily find their proper Ibraham Pacha in the castle of Berat. He sphere, and enjoy in it scope for all their en- had heard that an Englishman of rank was ergy. In ordinary circumstances they dis- in his dominions, and had left orders in tinguish themselves, but they sink when dif- | Yanina, with the commandant, to provide a ficulties accumulate around them. Persons horse, and supply me with every kind of with large brains, on the other hand, do not necessary gratis; and, though I have been readily attain their appropriate place; com- allowed to make presents to the slaves, etc., mon occurrences do not rouse or call them I have not been permitted to pay for a single forth, and, while unknown, they are not article of household consumption. I rode trusted with great undertakings. Often, out on the vizier's horses, and saw the paltherefore, such men pine and die in ob- aces of himself and grandsons: they are scurity. When, however, they attain their splendid, but too much ornamented with proper element, they are conscious of great- silk and gold. I then went over the moun ness, and glory in the expansion of their tains through Zitza, a village with a Greek powers. Their mental energies rise in pro- monastery (where I slept on my return), in portion to the obstacles to be surmounted, the most beautiful situation (always exceptand blaze forth in all the magnificence of self-ing Cintra, in Portugal) I ever beheld. In sustaining energetic genius, on occasions when feebler minds would sink in despair. System of Phrenology. GEORGE GORDON NOEL the only child of Captain John Byron, of the ALBANIA. PREVISA, November 12, 1809. MY DEAR MOTHER,-I have now been some time in Turkey: this place is on the coast, but I have traversed the interior of the province of Albania on a visit to the pacha. I nine days I reached Tepaleen. Our journey was much prolonged by the torrents that had fallen from the mountains, and intersected the roads. I shall never forget the singular scene on entering Tepaleen at five in the af ternoon, as the sun was going down: it brought to my mind (with some change of dress, however) Scott's description of Brank some Castle in his Lay, and the feudal system. The Albanians in their dresses (the most magnificent in the world, consisting of a long white kilt, gold-worked cloak, crimson velvet gold-laced jacket and waistcoat, silvermounted pistols and daggers), the Tartars with their high caps, the Turks in their vast pelisses and turbans, the soldiers and black slaves with the horses, the former in groups in an immense large open gallery in front of the palace, the latter placed in a kind of cloister below it, two hundred steeds ready caparisoned to move in a moment, couriers entering or passing out with despatches, the kettle-drums beating, boys calling the hour from the minaret of the mosque, altogether, with the singular appearance of the building itself, formed a new and delightful spectacle to a stranger. I was conducted to a very handsome apartment, and my health in ing of a man's birth from ears, hands, etc., were curious enough. To me he was indeed a father, giving me letters, guards, and every possible accommodation. Our next conversations were of war and travelling, politics and England. He called my Albanian soldier, who attends me, and told him to protect me at all hazard. His name is Viscillie, and, like all the Albanians, he is brave, rigidly honest, and faithful; but they are cruel, though not treacherous; and have several vices, but no meannesses. They are, perhaps, the most beautiful race, in point of countenance, in the world; their women are sometimes handsome also, but they are treated like slaves, beaten, and, in short, complete beasts of burthen: they plough, dig, and sow. I found them carrying wood, and actually repairing the highways. The men are all soldiers, and war and the chase their sole occupation. The women are the labourers, which, after all, is no great hardship in so delightful a climate. Yesterday, the 11th of November, I bathed in the sea; to-day it is so hot that I am writing in a shady room of the English consul's, with three doors wide open, no fire, or even fireplace in the house, except for culinary purposes. quired after by the vizier's secretary, "a la mode Turque." The next day I was introduced to Ali Pacha. I was dressed in a full suit of staff uniform, with a very magnificent sabre, etc. The vizier received me in a large room paved with marble; a fountain was playing in the centre; the apartment was surrounded by scarlet ottomans. He received me standing, a wonderful compliment from a Mussulman, and made me sit down on his right hand. I have a Greek interpreter for general use, but a physician of Ali's, named Temlario, who understands Latin, acted for me on this occasion. His first question was, why, at so early an age, I left my country (the Turks have no idea of travelling for amusement)? He then said. the English minister, Captain Leake, had told him I was of a great family, and desired his respects to my mother: which I now, in the name of Ali Pacha, present to you. Ile said he was certain I was a man of birth, because I had small ears, curling hair, and little, white hands, and expressed himself pleased with my appearance and garb. He told me to consider him as a father whilst I was in Turkey, and said he looked on me as his son. Indeed, he treated me like a child, sending me almonds and sugared sherbet, To day I saw the remains of the town of fruit and sweetmeats, twenty times a day. Actium, near which Antony lost the world, He begged me to visit him often, and at in a small bay, where two frigates could night, when he was at leisure. I then, after hardly manoeuvre; a broken wall is the coffee and pipes, retired for the first time. sole remnant. On another part of the gulf I saw him thrice afterwards. It is singular stand the ruins of Nicopolis, built by Authat the Turks, who have no hereditary dig-gustus in honour of his victory. Last night nities, and few great families, except the sultans', pay so much respect to birth; for I found my pedigree more regarded than my title. His highness is sixty years old, very fat, and not tall, but with a fine face, light blue eyes, and a white beard. Ilis manner is very kind, and, at the same time, he possesses that dignity which I find universal among the Turks. He has the appearance of any thing but his real character: for he is a remorseless tyrant, guilty of the most horrible cruelties, very brave, and so good a general, that they call him the Mahonetan Buonaparte. Napoleon has twice offered to make him king of Epirus; but he prefers the English interest, and abhors the French, as he himself told me. He is of so much consequence, that he is much courted by both; the Albanians being the most warlike subjects of the Sultan, though Ali is only nominally dependent on the Porte. He has been a mighty warrior; but is as barbarous as he is successful, roasting rebels, etc., etc. Buonaparte sent him a snuff-box, with his picture; he said the snuff-box was very well but the picture he could excuse, as he neither liked it nor the original. His ideas of judg| I was at a Greek marriage; but this, and a thousand things more, I have neither time nor space to describe. I am going to-morrow, with a guard of fifty men, to Patras in the Morea, and thence to Athens, where I shall winter. Two days ago, I was nearly lost in a Turkish ship of war, owing to the ignorance of the captain and crew, though the storm was not violent. Fletcher yelled after his wife, the Greeks called on all the saints, the Mussulmans on Alla, the captain burst into tears, and ran below deck, telling us to call on God; the sails were split, the main yard shivered, the wind blowing fresh, the night setting in, and all our chance was to make Corfu, which is in possession of the French, or (as Fletcher pathetically termed it) "a watery grave." I did what I could to console Fletcher; but, finding him incorrigi ble, wrapped myself up in my Albanian capote (an immense cloak) and lay down on deck to wait the worst. I have learnt to philosophize in my travels, and, if I had not, complaint was useless. Luckily, the wind abated, and only drove us on the coast of Suli, on the main land, where we landed, and proceeded, by the help of the natives, to Previsa again: but I shall not trust Turkish GEORGE GORDON NOEL BYRON. sailors in future, though the pacha had ordered one of his own galliots to take me to Patras. I am, therefore, going as far as Missolonghi by land, and there have only to cross a small gulf to get to Patras. Fletcher's next epistle will be full of marvels; we were one night lost for nine hours in the mountains in a thunder-storm, and since nearly wrecked. In both cases Fletcher was sorely bewildered, from apprehensions of famine and banditti in the first, and drowning in the second instance. His eyes were a little hurt by the lightning or crying (I don't know which), but are now recovered. When you write, address to me at Mr. Strané's, English consul, Patras, Morea. I could tell you I know not how many incidents, that I think would amuse you, but they crowd on my mind as much as they would swell my paper; and I can neither arrange them in the one, nor put them down in the other, except in the greatest confusion. I like the Albanians much: they are not all Turks: some tribes are Christians; but their religion makes little difference in their manner or conduct: they are esteemed the best troops in the Turkish service. I lived on my route, two days at once, and three days again, in a barrack at Salora, and never found soldiers so tolerable, though I have been in the garrisons of Gibraltar and Malta, and seen Spanish, French, Sicilian, and British troops in abundance. I have had nothing stolen; and was always welcome to their provision and milk. Not a week ago an Albanian chief (every village has its chief, who is called primate), after helping us out of the Turkish galley in her distress, feeding us, and lodging my suite, consisting of Fletcher, a Greek, two Athenians, a Greek priest, and my companion Mr. Hobhouse, refused any compensation but a written paper stating that I was well received; and when I pressed him to accept a few sequins, "No," he replied, "I wish you to love me, not to pay me." These are his words. It is astonishing how far money goes in this country. While I was in the capital I had nothing to pay, by the vizier's order; but since, though I have generally had sixteen horses, and generally six or seven men, the expense has not been half as much as staying only three weeks at Malta, though Sir A. Ball, the governor, gave me a house for nothing, and I had only one servant. By the by, I expect II. . . . to remit regularly; for I am not about to stay in this province for ever. Let him write to me at Mr. Strané's, English consul, Patras. The fact is, the fertility of the plains is wonderful, and specie is scarce, which makes this remarkable cheapness. I am going to Athens to study modern Greek, which dif 397 fers much from the ancient, though radically similar. I have no desire to return to England, nor shall I, unless compelled by absolute want and II. . . . 's neglect; but I shall not enter into Asia for a year or two, as I have much to see in Greece, and I may perhaps cross into Africa, at least the Egyptian part. Fletcher, like all Englishmen, is very much dissatisfied, though a little reconciled to the Turks by a present of eighty piastres from the vizier, which, if you consider every thing, and the value of specie here, is nearly worth ten guineas English. He has suffered nothing but from cold, heat, and vermin, which those who lie in cottages, and cross mountains in a cold country, must undergo, and of which I have equally par taken with himself; but he is not valiant, and is afraid of robbers and tempests. I have no one to be remembered to in Eng land, and wish to hear nothing from it, but that you are well, and a letter or two on business from H. whom you may tell to write. I will write you when I can, and beg you to believe me your affectionate son, BYRON. P.S.-I have some very "magnifique" Albanian dresses, the only expensive article in this country. They cost fifty guineas each, and have so much gold, they would cost in England two hundred. I have been introduced to Hussim Bey and Mahmout Pacha, both little boys, grandchildren of Ali, at Yanina. They are totally unlike our lads, have painted complexions, like rouged dowagers, large black eyes, and features perfectly regular. They are the prettiest little animals I ever saw, and are broken into the court ceremonies already. The Turkish salute is a slight inclination of the head, with the hand on the breast. Intimates always kiss. Mahmout is ten years old, and hopes to see me again. We are friends without understanding each other, like many other folks, though from a different cause. He has given me a letter to his father in the Morea, to whom I have also letters from Ali Pacha. LETTERS ON CHILDE HAROLD. FROM LETTERS TO R. C. DALLAS, ESQ. NEWSTEAD, August 21, 1811. I do not think I shall return to London immediately, and shall therefore accep freely what is offered courteously, your mediation between me and Murray. I don't think my name will answer the purpose, and you must be aware that my plaguy Satire will bring the North and South Grub-streets down upon the "Pilgrimage";-but, nevertheless, if Murray makes a point of it, and you coincide with him, I will do it daringly; so let it be entitled, "by the Author of Eng My re lish Bards and Scotch Reviewers." must have a warm sun and a blue sky. I marks on the Romaic, &c., once intended to cannot describe scenes so dear to me by a accompany the "Hints from Horace," shall sea-coal fire. I had projected an additional go along with the other, as being indeed canto when I was in the Troad and Conmore appropriate; also the smaller poems stantinople, and if I saw them again it now in my possession, with a few selected would go on; but, under existing circumfrom those published in H. . . . 's Miscel- stances and sensations, I have neither harp, lany. I have found, amongst my poor “heart nor voice," to proceed. I feel that mother's papers, all my letters from the you are all right as to the metaphysical part, east, and one, in particular, of some length, but I also feel that I am sincere, and that, if from Albania. From this, if necessary, II am only to write “ad captandum vulgus,” can work up a note or two on that subject. I might as well edite a magazine at once, or As I kept no journal, the letters written on spin canzonettas for Vauxhall. My the spot are the best. But of this anon, work must make its way as well as it can. when we have definitely arranged. Has I know I have every thing against me,— Murray shown the work to any one? He angry poets and prejudices; but if the poem may; but I will have no traps for applause. is a poem, it will surmount these obstacles, Of course there are little things I would and if not, it deserves its fate. . . . I am wish you to alter, and perhaps the two very sensible of your good wishes, and, instanzas of a buffooning cast on London's deed, I have need of them. My whole life Sunday are as well left out. I much wish has been at variance with propriety, not to to avoid identifying Childe Harold's char- say decency; my circumstances are becomacter with mine, and that, in sooth, is my ing involved; my friends are dead or essecond objection to my name appearing in tranged; and my existence a dreary void. the title-page. When you have made ar- In M... I have lost my "guide, philosorangements as to time, size, type, &c., favour pher, and friend;" in Wingfield a friend me with a reply. I am giving you a uni- only, but one whom I could wish to have verse of trouble which thanks cannot atone preceded in his long journey. for. I made a kind of prose apology for my skepticism, at the head of the MS., which, on recollection, is so much more like an attack than a defence, that haply it might better be omitted. Perpend, pronounce. After all, I fear Murray will be in a scrape with the orthodox; but I cannot help it, though I wish him well through it. As for me, I have supped full of criticism," and I don't think that the "most dismal treatise" will stir and rouse my "fell of hair" till "Birnam wood do come to Dunsinane." I shall continue to write at intervals, and hope you will pay me in kind. NEWSTEAD ABBEY, Sept. 7, 1811. As Gifford has been ever my 66 Magnus Apollo," any approbation, such as you mention, would, of course, be more welcome than "all Bokara's vaunted gold, than all the gems of Samarkand." But I am sorry the MS. was shown to him in such a manner, and had written to Murray to say as much, before I was aware that it was too late. Your objection to the expression "central line," I can only meet by saying that, before Childe Harold left England, it was his full intention to traverse Persia, and return by India, which he could not have done without passing the equinoctial. The other errors you mention I must correct in the progress through the press. I feel honoured by the wish of such men that the poem should be continued; but, to do that, I must return to Greece and Asia; I NEWSTEAD ABBEY, Sept. 26, 1811. there is, in the concluding line, "Full from the heart of joy's delicious springs If you will point out the stanzas on Cintra which you wish recast, I will send you mine answer. Pray do you think any alterations should be made in the stanzas on VATHEK? I should be sorry to make any improper allusion, as I merely wish to adduce an example of wasted wealth, and the reflection which arose in surveying the most desolate mansion in the most beautiful spot I ever beheld. . . . I will have nothing to say to your metaphysics, and allegories of rocks and beaches: we shall all go to the bottom together; so let us eat and drink, for to-morrow," &c. I am as comfortable in my creed as others, inasmuch as it is better to sleep than to be awake. NEWSTEAD ABBEY, October 11, 1811. Your objections I have in part done away by alterations which I hope will suffice; and I have sent two or three additional stanzas for both "Fyttes." I have been again CAPTAIN BASIL HALL. .. shocked with a death, and have lost one very dear to me in happier times; but I have almost forgot the taste of grief," and "supped full of horrors" till I have become callous; nor have I a tear left for an event which, five years ago, would have bowed down my head to the earth. It seems as though I were to experience, in my youth, the greatest misery of age. My friends fall around me, and I shall be left a lonely tree before I am withered. Other men can always take refuge in their families: I have no resource but my own reflections, and they present no prospect, here or hereafter, except the selfish satisfaction of surviving my betters. I am indeed very wretched, and you will excuse my saying so, as you know I am not apt to cant of sensibility. Instruct Mr. Murray not to allow his shopman to call the work "Child of Harrow's Pilgrimage" !!!!!! as he has done to some of my astonished friends, who wrote to inquire after my sanity on the occasion, as well they might. I have heard nothing of Murray, whom I scolded heartily.-Must I write more notes? CAPTAIN BASIL HALL, R.N., an author of great merit, son of Sir James Hall, fourth baronet of Dunglass, was born in Edinburgh in 1788, and died in confinement from insanity in 1844. 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"Few writers lay themselves more open to quizzing: few can prose and bore more successfully 399 A hundred and fifty years hence, when his works have become old classical authorities, it may interest some fervent lover of his writings to know what this great genius was about on Saturday, the 10th of June, 1826, five months after the total ruin of his pe cuniary fortunes, and twenty-six days after the death of his wife. In the days of his good luck he used to live at No. 39 North Castle Street, in a house befitting a rich baronet; but on reaching the door, I found the plate on it covered with rust (so soon is glory obscured), the window, shuttered up, dusty, and comfortless; and from the side of one projected a board, with unwashed, and not a foot-mark told of the this inscription,-" To Sell;" the stairs were ancient hospitality which reigned within. In all nations with which I am acquainted the fashionable world move westward, in imitation, perhaps, of the great tide of civilization; and, vice versa, those persons who decline in fortune, which is mostly equivalent to declining in fashion, shape their course eastward. ~ Accordingly, by an involuntary impulse, I turned my head that way, and inquiring at the clubs in Prince's Street, learned that he now resided in David Street, No. 6. I was rather glad to recognize my old friend the Abbotsford butler, who answered the door,-the saying about heroes and valets-de-chambre comes to one's recollection on such occasions; and nothing, we may be sure, is more likely to be satisfactory to a man whose fortune is reduced than the stanch adherence of a mere servant, whose wages must be altered for the worse. At the top of the stair we saw a small tray, with a single plate and glasses for one solitary person's dinner. Some few months ago Sir Walter was surrounded by his family, and wherever he moved, his head-quarters were the focus of fashion. Travellers from all nations crowded round, and, like the recorded honours of Lord Chatham, "thickened over him." Lady and Miss Scott were his constant companions; the Lockharts were his neighbours both in town and in Roxburghshire; his eldest son was his fre |