RUSSIAN TRAVELLING SKETCHES.-NO. I.

AFTER having maintained a correspondence with different individuals in Russia, and read various accounts of the inhabitants of this country -I mean the real Russians-I determined to make them a visit, that I might judge of their character myself. Before setting out on my journey, I was familiar with the works of Coxe, Tooke, Porter, Wilson, Clarke, Lyall, Cochrane, and many other authors of more ancient date, as well as those of a number of continental writers. The difference of opinion nay the contradictions-of these authors led me quite into a dilemma, from which I saw no prospect of extricating myself, except by personal observation. Being an individual of some rank, and having received numerous letters of introduction to the highest families of Petersburgh and Moscow, I, of course, was, immediately on my arrival at the former city, invited to the first society-the best educated and most polite circles. I never associated with the lower classes of the nobles, who, I am informed, are nearly upon a par with our farmersnot our gentlemen farmers--with respect to their manners, but not half so intelligent. Had I wished to associate with them for the sake of gaining information, it was impossible, because they, in general, only speak Russian, and I only speak English and French. I can say little of the clergy, the merchants, or the peasants, from personal observation, though I learned much respecting them from different friends, whose long residence in Russia gives great weight to their opinions.

Having made these preliminary remarks, I shall at once proceed to my memoranda.

The voyage to Russia, which was of three weeks' duration, afforded no matter worthy of detail. We were highly pleased with the magnificent granite pier which forms the mole or harbour of Cronstadt; but, as we approached it, the yells of a Russian, whom they were flogging on board the Potash-a kind of floating custom-house formed out of a dismantled vessel-called our attention, and led to melancholy impressions as we landed on the quay. The uncouth figures of the Russians--with long beards, heads like mops*, wide flowing coats bound with girdles, wide trowsers, and linen shoes or loose bootsriveted my attention. The bare-headed workmen, in their shirts bound round the waist and hanging over the trowsers, seemed to me still more singular, though I could not but remark convenience. On approaching the common Russians, a peculiar odour, mixed with that of garlic, seemed to issue from them, and was most disagreeable, and at times highly offensive. Scarcely had I reached the town when green-sellers presented bunches of leeks, onions, turnips, and carrots for sale. After having been fed chiefly on salt beef and bread for some days, and having acquired a voracious appetite, I was ready to devour any kind of vegetables, and therefore I purchased a bunch of turnips and another of carrots, but I found them excessively bad, being hard and without relish. Salted cucumbers, which I then thought food for

* It is true that the Russian peasantry, when their hair is to be cut, have their heads covered with a bason, and that the barber is guided in his operation by its edge. As the Russians seldom thin their hair, it generally becomes exceedingly thick and bushy, and when curly, exactly like a mop.

swine, detestable prunes, pickled apples, and kvass with lumps of ice in it, and served up in wooden ladles, which I at the time found very unpalatable, were next presented; and all seemed ominous of but poor fare in Russia. On reaching one of the inns, however, which is kept by a Scotchman, I was served with delightful coffee, and immediately was sensible that few individuals in Great Britain know what good coffee is. I sallied forth and wandered over Cronstadt, surveying its public works, its quays, batteries, canals, docks, hospitals, barracks, churches, streets, &c.; all of which have been described by a number of authors. The batteries seemed to possess no real strength, and the dismantled fleet was rotting in the men-of-war's harbour. Indeed the ships have never been used, nor are they capable of being used. The Russians do not yet know enough of ship-building, though Peter the Great taught them; nor are they acquainted with the manner of seasoning the wood-so as to acquire an available fleet, had they the command of the Atlantic ocean. Yet Russia most foolishly wishes to become a great maritime power with all her disadvantages; and though her fleets, however numerous they might become, could be blocked up in the Baltic, the Euxine, the Caspian and the White Sea. The strength of her navy is not worth calculation, nor will the powers of Europe, especially Great Britain, suffer it quietly to be augmented. Russia, with all her overbearing insolence-and notwithstanding her gigantic strides in knowledge-is still dependent on the talents of foreigners for her present rank. Take all the foreigners from that country, and she would soon relapse into her former barbarism. She could not stand of herself for a single hour, because she possesses no stamina of a well organized government, founded upon the knowledge, the policy, the virtue, and the morality of her administrators, or the real worth of her people. Her sovereigns have long been aware of this circumstance, and have most prudently employed foreigners in the most important stations; as ministers, counsellors, generals, admirals, engineers, mathematicians, physicians, surgeons, apothecaries, &c. &c. &c. At this moment how many of her chief officers are foreigners! Are not her fleets commanded by Englishmen? That of the Baltic by Admiral Crown, and that of the Black Sea by Admiral Greig? And, as Dr. Lyall mentions, until lately, were not the three chiefs of the three medical departments-the civil the military-and the naval, all Britons? How many of her great officers in the campaign of 1812 were foreigners, or of foreign extraction! as Barclay de Tolly, Bagration, Wittgenstein, Sacken. But some of these are already silent; and although Russia still possesses many intelligent officers, perhaps she has not one who is capable of moving or manoeuvring "great masses of men," especially during an engagement. Her immense army would, therefore, become unmanageable were it beyond the frontiers, and intended the invasion of Europe. Russia is, in fact, a most powerful ally to any of the other powers of the Continent, who can guide her armies, supply their wants, and furnish funds for the prosecution of war. But she is incapable of finding money to pay her troops in foreign countries, though she can readily produce men to be paid by the power whose cause she may have espoused. Such are my impressions after having spent nearly a year in the North and having acquired much

But this is anticipating myself,

information from a variety of sources. therefore I must resume my memoranda.

Heartily tired or Cronstadt, I embarked on board the steam-boat, and after a delightful passage, in fine weather, and enjoying charming views of the coasts of the Gulf of Finland, reached a species of quay opposite Mr. Baird's iron-foundery, where the numerous passengers landed. I had held conversation with a number of individuals of the motley assembly, especially with respect to the utility of the steampacket. Perhaps no case has yet occurred where the advantages of steam-navigation are more apparent, than in that between Petersburgh and Cronstadt. Formerly, when the wind was even favourable, but not strong enough, the voyage occupied nearly a whole day—when it was adverse, a day or two-and when stormy, it was not undertaken. In the last case, persons very generally were at the expense of hiring a carriage to Oranienbaum, and from thence, a distance of eight miles, they crossed to Cronstadt-thus expending some pounds. But the foreigner, who reached Cronstadt from some distant country, and was anxious to arrive at Petersburgh, when the wind was adverse for the passage, was accustomed to hire a boat to Oranienbaum, and a carriage from thence to Petersburgh; and as he at once became the subject of Russian deceit and rapacity, he generally expended some pounds, in addition to many vexations, before he gained the residence of the Tzars. In our days, except in a great storm, one steam-boat leaves Cronstadt and another leaves Petersburgh daily; and the voyage, which very rarely exceeds three hours, has been performed in two hours and a half. So much for scientific improvements in this golden age of knowledge, and its dissemination.

By advice of a friend, in place of proceeding to enter Petersburgh by land, I hired a boat and sailed up the Neva. The weather continued fine-the sun shone with great splendour-and the sky was cloudless, as we glided along in an elegant boat, which was rowed by a couple of tawny-coloured Russians, whose voices kept time with their oars, and whose music resembled a species of howling and bellowing, although they sang in concord and although the modulations were regular. Haying sailed about half a mile, the new Russian capital with golden summits, with the history of which I was already familiar, burst beautifully upon the view. I was spell-bound at the sight, and by my order the boatmen ceased their exertions. The English granite and magnificent quay, backed by a row of beautiful palaces and houses-the immense admiralty with its glittering spire—the truly gigantic Imperial palace— a fine pontoon bridge across the beautiful and transparent Neva-the Marine and Naval hospitals of stupendous size-the enormous massy Academy of Arts-the Academy of Sciences-the College of Mines, &c. &c. besides crowds of other edifices, of all the colours of the rainbow, composed the scenery which I now beheld, and formed one of the most splendid and glorious scenes I have ever seen, or, indeed, which can be seen. I exclaimed, is this the capital of those who are so often called the "Barbarians of the North ?"

My attention being solely engrossed in contemplating these objects as they changed their appearance with our progress, and in meditations on the advancement of Russia from her but recent state of barbarism, I

was almost sorry when we reached the landing-place at the English quay.

I was soon comfortably lodged in one of the inns, kept by an Englishman, which I found very expensive, and I spent some weeks in the examination of the city and its most interesting objects: having been previously provided with the best guides for a traveller-the works of Storch, Svinin and James, to which were added the Northern Summer of Sir John Carr, Coxe's Travels, and Clark's Travels. I could add little to the descriptions of Petersburgh which have already been given, and therefore shall only allude to my general impressions. This capital has been called the fairest city of the world-and apparently with great judgment. Its splendour far surpassed my brilliant conception inspired by books. The magnificence of its spacious streets its fine boulevards-its quays, canals, monasteries, and churches, golden spires and domes—the enormous size of its noble edifices-the generally chaste style of its Italian and Greek-Italian architecture-the deep, limpid, and majestic Neva flowing between them-together with the immense variety of colours on every hand-form a most fascinating spectacle. On a charming day I took my seat in the boulevard of the Admiralty, and was highly delighted at the show of so many elegantly dressed ladies and gentlemen, and of numerous beautiful carriages which passed. I was continually asking myself whether, in reality, this was Petersburgh-and the people, the representatives of the "ferocious barbarians of the North," the real Russians? I would exclaim, they are not—cannot be until some passing long-bearded, uncouth native reminded me of my mistake.

However, I soon discovered that the Russian character, in its purity, was not to be seen at Petersburgh, and on that account I curtailed my intended time of residence, with the view of proceeding to the interior. Being furnished with a number of letters of introduction to some of the nobles, I was at once associated with the highest society, and I must say, that I was quite delighted with my reception. Numerous invitations to daily open table, soirées, concerts, balls, conversaziones, masquerades, theatres, and parties of pleasure, were all extremely agreeable, and my time was passed most charmingly between them and inquiries. I ought to mention, that I am one of those travellers whom Dr. Lyall would class among the favoured; whose pictures of society are partial, and only relate to the flower of the Russian nobility; for though I had opportunities of mixing with those of inferior rank, I did not associate with any of them. In the parties where I was, I met cabinet ministers, generals, admirals, governors, princes, counts, barons, high excellencies, and excellencies beyond number, and especially officers of the army, and a few of those in the navy. I will honestly and fairly confess, that I was delighted with the manners of the Russians, and their conduct towards me as a stranger. Their affability, their politeness, their courteousness, and their hospitality quite charmed me. The unaffected, graceful, condescending, and liberal manners of the ladies altogether fascinated me, though I was dead to all other charms; for beauty and elegance of figure do not often present themselves among them. Here, though I entered a house a perfect stranger, I generally left it, as if I had been one of the most intimate friends of its master, or one of its inmates. Here, I found a freedom of

speech, characteristic of the continent, which pleased my taste, which put me at my ease on all occasions ; circumstances extremely agreeable to a traveller. How much more easy, elegant, and refined, are the manners of the Russian ladies than those of Great Britain or Ireland! They dress more elegantly too, because they follow the most recent Parisian fashions; their garments are generally of sufficient extension to cover the body, while they admit of graceful motion, but few of them sport their legs, and still fewer their ancles-perhaps because, for the most part, they are clumsy. They spare no expense in decoration. Silks and satins of the most gaudy colours, plumes of feathers, splendid jewels, the most delicious perfumes, and a profusion of rouge, are all called to aid the setting-off of the few natural charms of the Russian ladies; and generally speaking, they have great need of artificial ornament, and wide flowing robes, to impart charms, which Nature has denied, and to conceal their general inclination to embonpoint or already existing rotundity. I was highly pleased with their society, as a stranger, but their notions of morality seemed too loose to accord with my stern ideas of propriety. I saw not one whom I could have married; and strange to tell, it rarely happens that an Englishman espouses a Russian, notwithstanding so many of our countrymen reside in Russia, and some of them associate a great deal in Russian society.

So much for the Russians at Petersburgh: let us now turn to our countrymen there settled; the chief part of whom are merchants, but live like noblemen. They have splendid houses, fine horses and carriages-keep good tables-have excellent wines; and withal are extremely hospitable, a circumstance which is easily explained without supposing, as has been done, that in this they only copied the Russians. Provisions and wines are, comparatively speaking, cheap as well as the expenses of an establishment. Like all other travellers 1 frequently dined at the English Club, where I passed many pleasant hours with my countrymen, and at a very trifling expense; and where I met travellers from almost all the nations of Europe, who had been introduced by their friends.

I was a regular attendant at the Exercise-House, where his Imperial Majesty Alexander examines some troops almost every morning, and was astonished at their fine appearance and excellent state of discipline. The reviews which frequently took place in the great area before the winter-palace, were to me a high source of amusement. The excellent condition of the Imperial Guards, horse and foot, as well as of the artillery, altogether surprised me. Such troops can rarely be seen any where. It is but proper to mention, however that we see the élite of the whole Russian army at Petersburgh; and they form regiments of which every nation of Europe might be vain.

I could not but remark the power of despotism in the arrangement for these reviews, and think of the different manner in which things are carried on in Britain. Suppose King George were to wish to have a review of troops once a week at Charing-cross, and were to order the communications by the Strand, by Cockspur-street, and by Parliamentstreet, to be shut up by means of ropes, and guarded by the police and gens d'armes would he be able to effect his purpose beyond a single time? The voice of the public would rise omnipotent, and prevent its repetition. But in the north things are differently arranged. The