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At Karneva is a similar farm-and, what is rare, a Scotch farm. It was intended to build a large house there of stone; but the invasion of the French in 1812 interrupted the operations, after the foundation had been laid and as yet only one of the wings has been finished, together with stables, cow-houses, and offices. All these structures are of stone, found in the vicinity, and I believe form a rarity, if not a singularity, in Russia-a stone farm-house.

As Count Rumantsof takes great delight in rural ecomomy, and is not parsimonious, these farms may become greatly productive and valuable. It is to be regretted, however, that owing to some misunderstanding between the steward of Count Rumantsof and Mr. Rogers, the latter received his dismission, not long after the decease of his former wife; who was supposed by many to be as good a farmer as himself; indeed, some say she was the superior of the two. I believe Mr. Rogers, jun., who is director of the farm which belongs to the Agricultural Society of Moscow, has now control over the farms of Count Rumantsof.

Count Rumantsof is one of the most zealous and most liberal improvers of his country. Some years ago, at his own expense, he fitted out the Rurik under Captain Kotzebue, which circumnavigated the globe; he has long introduced every practical improvement of agriculture into the farins described, as well as at Gomel, in the south of Russia, and one of the finest estates in the empire: new and valuable breeds of horses, cows, sheep, &c. have all been welcomed by him, and no expense spared to render them useful; besides, the Count encourages all kinds of useful societies by liberal donations; and he has also defrayed the expense of the publication of a number of ancient records. He is truly one of the patrons of arts, sciences, and general knowledge, and in this respect he merits the gratitude of his countrymen while he presents them an example worthy of imitation.

Kuntsova is a fine estate of the Lord Chamberlain's (grand chambellan), Alexander Lvovitch Narishkin, a descendant of one of the ancient families of Russia, and a man of considerable talents and information. It lies at the distance of six versts, or four miles, from Moscow,

burgh foreigners are supplied with this commodity chiefly by the Germans, who reside in the vicinity; and at Moscow, as mentioned, from Count Rumantsof's estates, and by a few other individuals who bring the produce of their farms to the Ochotnoi Riad, or chief market of that city. In the greater part of the interior of the empire, the same kind of butter cannot be obtained; and this deficiency proves very disagreeable to many travellers, (and among them did so to myself,) who are fond of good butter, though they can put up with almost every inconvenience of travelling. The Russian butter is made by placing milk or cream in an oven, and skimming off the butter as it separates. This butter is of a very strong quality, and is admirably adapted for the use of the kitchen, as one pound will go as far as two or three of our butter in frying, pastry, &c. It generally has a granular appearance, a strong smell, and a white or yellow colour. It serves the Russian peasantry, who consume great quantities of it, mixed with boiled millet, and who, during the fasts, replace it by hemp oil: a proof that they are not very fastidious. To them our butter, even of the best quality, would have little relish, because it is not greasy enough for their palate and constitution. The Teuchonsky Masla, as they call it, because much of it is made by the Fins, was never intended for the Russians, according to their belief. The Ruskaya Masla, or real Russian butter, they esteem the richest and the best in the world. Many of the nobles, however, are of a different opinion, and speak highly of English butter.

along the south elevated and romantic bank of the Moskva. The mansion-house, which is but a mean wooden edifice, beautifully overhangs this river, and commands a delightful and extensive view, which includes the great city of the Russian empire-the truly venerated metropolis-Mother Moscow.

Kuntsova is placed opposite to Kharoshóvo, where is remarked a line of new buildings, in which is kept a part of the imperial stud, that well deserves the attention of the connoisseur and the amateur.

The Skotnoi Dvore, or Cattle-Court, consists of a number of good low brick edifices, which have an interesting appearance to the southwest of Moscow, and especially from the Sparrow-hill. This establishment belongs to the Foundling Hospital of the ancient metropolis, which it supplies with milk, and besides it serves as a nursery for those children who have lost their health.

It is impossible for the stranger not to be struck most forcibly with the magnificent appearance of the Foundling Hospital at Moscow; the most extensive institution of the kind in the world. The visitor will be highly pleased also with its apparent utility. Yet Dr. Lyall questions its real utility, and states, that although the number of foundlings on the books generally amounts to about 9000, yet that the greater part are sent out of the house to wet nurses, who are, for the most part, the wives of the peasants, and who train up their children in the most careless and hardy manner. From this circumstance, and a variety of other causes, the mortality of the foundlings is extremely great-indeed, to a degree which I am fearful of naming. This is said to be the reason why no annual bills of mortality are published; but it is probably a circumstance of little importance, because, if they did see the light, it could be only under the eyes of the police, who would make them what they judged necessary to please the patrons and the protectors of the hospital. No public reports made by the police are deemed worthy of the least confidence. The functionaries deceive the Emperor himself, and therefore find no difficulty in deceiving the public, or, at least, the credulous part of the public.

Bethany, (in Russ called Viphania, or the Spassoviphanskii Monasteer,) which lies near the Monastery of the Trinity, and above forty miles from Moscow, is a place deserving of peculiar notice, on account of its having been the favourite residence of the enlightened and distinguished Platon, late Metropolitan of that city, and Archimandrite of the Trinity Monastery.

Platon is well known to the world as a man who raised himself, by his talents, to the first dignity in the Russian hierarchy, who was preceptor to the late Emperor Paul, who carried on a correspondence with Monsieur Dutens, in which he endeavoured to shew that the Pope was Antichrist, and who composed an excellent summary of the RussoGreek Faith, which has been translated into English by Dr. Pinkerton. In the last work it is impossible not to be struck with the industry, the erudition, and the liberality of the author, though almost every page be tinctured with the superstitions of his creed, and though many overstrainings be remarked in the illustration of its tenets. He assuredly was the most liberal-minded divine in the Russo-Greek church, and might be regarded as a phenomenon in the empire of the North. Though his knowledge was pretty general, it was, however,

only in theology he was eminent. Neither he, nor indeed any minister of the Russian church, was ever celebrated for his knowledge in the sciences, or generally known to the world by any philosophical work. It is thought requisite in Russia that a parish-priest should devote himself, almost exclusively, to his holy avocations; and the education of monks, who afterwards fill the highest dignities of the church, is not well calculated to inspire the love of general knowledge, or to call forth the desire of excelling.

The account of the conversation of Platon and Dr. Clarke is extremely amusing,* and speaks volumes of thoughts in a few words— for many words are dangerous in the North-and even the few require to be very guarded. Platon had remarked the freedom which some English divines show in their writings, when Dr. Clarke told him that "we had once a prelate, who, preaching before his sovereign, felt himself at liberty to discuss his conduct to his face." "I wish," said Platon," we had such a fellow here ;" but aware of the interpretation which might be put upon his words, and perhaps not daring to end with them, he added after a pause, 66 we would send him to enjoy the full liberty of preaching in the free air of Siberia."

Platon was a remarkably agreeable person in society; he was equally ready to receive and to communicate information, and he was a friend of toleration. As a proof of the last statement, it is sufficient to state, that he communicated much intelligence to the late Rev. Dr. King, which was afterwards embodied in that author's work, on the "Rites and Ceremonies of the Greek Church ;" and that he was equally obliging to the Rev. Mr. Tooke.

A late author says, that Platon was rather a bon-vivant, and in confirmation of this relates the following anecdote. The divine frequently dined with the military governor of Moscow, who, aware that his guest did not much relish the diet prescribed for the clergy during the fasts, by a very simple process, converted flesh into fish, and relieved, or rather prevented, all the metropolitan's scruples. "The servant having placed a dish of good animal soup before the old man, the governor said, this is fish soup. The divine crossed himself, said Amen, and immediately partook of it. In the same manner, when delicate veal was served up, the governor said, this is sturgeon, or sterlet; the Amen was repeated, and the contents of the plate disappeared."+

Bethany was founded in the year 1787, at the expense, and under the care of Platon. It was at first not reckoned among the monasteries of the crown, but merely a pustinya, or hermitage. In 1797, when the Emperor Paul, after his coronation at Moscow, made a visit with his family to the Troitskoi Monastery, or Convent of the Trinity, to do reverence to the relics of St. Serge, he also went to Bethany, which was then constituted a monastery of the second class, with a seminary, and granted the sum of 4000 roubles annually for its support. The archimandrite of the Troitskoi monastery was also made the archimandrite of Bethany. The monastery and seminary were finished in 1800.

As is usual in Russia, the Viphanskii monastery is surrounded by a stone wall, with towers, and a belfry over the gates.

* Vide Clarke's Travels. Clarke calls the divine Plato, in place of Platon. Lyall's Travels, vol. ii. p. 433.

The Church of the Transfiguration stands in the centre, of an oval form, with Gothic windows and turrets, and is built of brick unplastered. It surprises all by its unusual internal arrangement. Having entered the Trapeza, in place of the nave and altar, the visitor remarks an artificial hill covered in different parts with moss, and elevated to the height of the first story. The base of this hill is perforated by three separate doors-or rather by the central royal doors, with a window in the form of a door on each side-over each of which is a biblical representation cut in ivory. A stair, with a low railing, winds from the floor to the top of the hill on the left, and on the right is a straight stair close to the wall, for the greater facility of ascent. Having reached the top of this stair, the visitor observes, that, on his present level, an oval balcony, forming the choir, surrounds the church, the balustrade of which opposite the ikonostas, or skreen, is covered by the red and white flowers of gnaphalium dioicum. On the same level with this balcony is the ikonostas, behind which is the altar, and before which is the only nave of the Church of the Transfiguration; the trapeza below being common to it, and to the chapel dedicated to the Resurrection of Lazarus. On walking round this balcony, he notices that on the walls are hung coarse paintings of some of the fathers of the church, and of sacred historical scenes; and that in some of the windows are a few panes of glass stained red, blue, orange, &c.; while others are ornamented by figures of the apostles and prophets.

Below the Church of the Transfiguration, i. e. in the hill, is a very small chapel, dedicated to the Resurrection of Lazarus; with a small nave before the ikonostas, a still smaller altar behind it, and a little sombre compartment on each side of the nave. In the left compartment is preserved the wooden coffin in which had been placed the relics of the famous St. Serge, so often mentioned in the Russian rubrick. Here is also raised the tomb of Platon, about two and a half feet high, built of brick and stuccoed, and entirely covered by a brass plate, on which is a representation of a large cross, and an inscription recording the divine's history. This tomb seems short, but Platon was of a low stature. The hill, our guides told us, was called Mount Tabor. So preposterous an arrangement of a church I have never witnessed; and the absurdity of the whole is crowned by the shocking taste, which has added a stuffed hare, issuing from a small cavity in the bottom of the hill, right forward into the church, as a part of the natural, or rather unnatural, scenery.

This church can only demand attention from its containing the relicks of Platon; a name justly revered in Russia, and which will ever make Bethany distinguished in the annals of that empire; but the plan and execution of the church, in my opinion, do him no credit.*

A monument near the house in which Platon lived, attracts the notice of the traveller. It is a very small pyramid, placed under a

* Yet, speaking of the Convent of the Trinity, Dr. Clarke says, "Rather more than two miles farther there is another convent, less known, but more remarkable; it contains within its walls a Gothic church, erected over a mount which is supposed to typify the Mountain of the Ascension of Jesus Christ At the foot of the mount, and within it, is a small chapel containing figures, executed in wax, to represent the Resurrection of Lazarus."

wooden canopy, surrounded by a low railing, and with an inscription on the pedestal, indicating that it was elevated in memory of the visit of the Emperor Paul in 1787. The monument, and the painting behind it, with Latin inscriptions, are alike paltry.

Bethany contains only eight monks, who reside in small wooden houses raised on stone foundations, on the right and left of the central entrance to the court. Platon's house is now occupied by the rector of the seminary.

The seminary is placed near the convent. It is a brick structure, two stories in height, with two wings. A few ecclesiastical students have here their abode, as well as their teachers.

Bethany, though not elevated, must be very agreeable in summer, from its romantic and varied environs; and was a residence well adapted for a contemplative mind, such as Platon's.

PROVINCIAL BALLADS.-NO. III. *

The Legend of the Copleston Oak.

Go, see romantic Tamar glide

Green Warlegh'st sylvan coves below,

And, floating on its summer tide,

The swans of stately Maristow.‡

*The materials upon which this metrical tale is founded, are contained in the following extract from Prince's Worthies of Devon, p. 237 (London, 1810.) "Esquire Copleston of Warley, (I can't recover his Christian name, altho' I suppose it was John) in the days of Queen Elizabeth, had a young man to his godson, that had been abroad for his education; who, at his return home, hearing of the extravagances of his godfather's conversation, expressed in some company his sorrowful resentment of it, which was not done so privately but the report thereof was soon brought (as there be tale-bearers and whisperers, which separate very friends, enough every where) to his godfather's ears. This exceedingly enkindled the indignation of the old gentleman against his godson, and (as 'twas supposed) his natural son also; making him break out, saying, 'Must boys observe and discant on the actions of men, and of their betters?' From henceforth he resolved, and sought all opportunities to be revenged upon him. At length they being both at Tamerton, their parish church, on a Lord's day, the young man observing by his countenance, what he was partly informed of before, that his godfather was highly displeased at him, prudently withdrew betimes from the church, and resolved to keep himself away, out of his reach, until his indignation should be overpassed. The old gentleman, seeing his revenge likely to be disappointed, sent the young man word that his anger towards him was now over, and he might return to his church again: accordingly the young man came, at the usual time, but cautiously eyeing his godfather, he found the expression of the poet too true:

Manet alta mente repôstum

That his displeasure was not laid aside, but laid up in a deep revengeful mind: whereupon, as soon as the duties of religion were over, he again hastened out of the church as soon as he could; upon this his godfather followed him, but not being able to overtake him, he threw his dagger after him (the wearing whereof was the mode of those times), and struck him through the reins of the back, so that he fell, and died on the spot To this account I have only to add, that the tradition still continues to be current in the neighbourhood; and that on the green adjoining to the church-yard of Tamerton, there are still the remains of a noble tree, which goes by the name of The Copleston Oak, and under which it is said that the tragic event took place.

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f Warlegh, formerly a seat of the Copleston family, now the residence of the Rev. Walter Radcliffe.

Maristow, the beautiful seat of Sir M. M. Lopes, Bart.

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