across; the skin folds like loose cloth doubled over his body, and cross his hips; a vast animal, though young as big, perhaps, as four oxen.The young elephant, with his tusks just appearing. The brown bear put out his paws;-all very tame.-The lion.-The tigers I did not well view. The camel or dromedary with two bunches called the Huguin,' taller than any horse. Two camels with one bunch.-Among the birds was a pelican, who being let out, went to a fountain, and swam about to catch fish. His feet well webbed: he dipped his head, and turned his long bill sideways. He caught two or three fish, but did not eat them.

The

Trianon is a kind of retreat appendant to Versailles. It has an open portico; the pavement, and I think the pillars, of marble.There are many rooms which I do not distinctly remember.-A table of porphyry, about five feet long, and between two and three broad, given to Louis XIV. by the Venetian State. - In the council-room almost all that was not door or window was I think looking - glass. - Little Trianon is a small palace like a gentleman's house. The upper floor paved with brick.Little Vienne.-The court is ill-paved. rooms at the top are small, fit to soothe the imagination with privacy. In the front of Versailles are small basins of water on the terrace, and other basins I think below them. There are little courts.-The great gallery is wainscoted with mirrors, not very large, but joined by frames. I suppose the large plates were not yet made.--The playhouse 2 was very large. The chapel I do not remember if we saw. We saw one chapel, but I am not certain whether there or at Trianon. The foreign office paved with bricks.-The dinner half a louis each, and, I think, a louis over.-Money given at menagerie, three livres; at palace, six livres.

At

Monday, Oct. 23. Last night I wrote to Levet. We went to see the looking-glasses wrought. They come from Normandy in cast plates, perhaps the third of an inch thick. Paris they are ground upon a marble table, by rubbing one plate upon another with grit between them. The various sands, of which there are said to be five, I could not learn. The handle, by which the upper glass is moved, has the form of a wheel, which may be moved in all directions. The plates are sent up with their surfaces ground, but not polished, and so continue till they are bespoken, lest time should spoil the surface, as we are told. Those that are to be polished are laid on a table covered with

1 This epithet should be applied to this animal with one bunch.-BOSWELL.

2.When at Versailles, the people showed us the theatre. As we stood on the stage looking at some machinery for play-house purposes-"Now we are here, what shall we act, Dr. Johnson? The Englishman at Paris?"-" No, no," replied he, "we will try to act Harry the Fifth."-MRS. Piozzi.

several thick cloths, hard strained, that the resistance may be equal; they are then rubbed with a hand rubber, held down hard by a contrivance which I did not well understand. The powder which is used last seemed to me to be iron dissolved in aquafortis; they called it, as Baretti said, marc de l'eau forte, which he thought was dregs. They mentioned vitriol and saltpetre. The cannon-ball swam in the quicksilver. To silver them, a leaf of beaten tin is laid, and rubbed with quicksilver, to which it unites. Then more quicksilver is poured upon it, which, by its mutual [attraction], rises very high. Then a paper is laid at the nearest end of the plate, over which the glass is slided till it lies upon the plate, having driven much of the quicksilver before it. It is then, I think, pressed upon cloth, and then set sloping to drop the superfluous mercury: the slope is daily heightened towards a perpendicular.

In the way I saw the Grêve, the mayor's house, and the Bastile.

'We then went to Sans-terre, a brewer.' He brews with about as much malt as Mr. Thrale, and sells his beer at the same price, though he pays no duty for malt, and little more than half as much for beer. Beer is sold retail at 6d. a bottle. He brews 4000 barrels a year. There are seventeen brewers in Paris, of whom none is supposed to brew more than he; reckoning them at 3000 each, they make 51,000 a year. They make their malt, for malting is here no trade.

'The moat of the Bastile is dry.

Tuesday, Oct. 24.-We visited the King's library-I saw the Speculum humanæ Salvationis, rudely printed, with ink sometimes pale, sometimes black; part supposed to be with wooden types, and part with pages cut in boards. The Bible, supposed to be older than that of Mentz, in 1462; it has no date; it is supposed to have been printed with wooden types.-I am in doubt; the print is large and fair, in two folios. Another book was shown me, supposed to have been printed with wooden types; I think Durandi Sanctuarium in 1458. This is inferred from the difference of form sometimes seen in the same letter, which might be struck with different puncheons. The regu lar similitude of most letters proves better that they are metal. I saw nothing but the Speculum, which I had not seen I think before.

"Thence to the Sorbonne.-The library very large, not in lattices like the King's. Marbone and Durandi, q. collection, 14 vol. Scriptores de rebus Gallicis, many folios.-Histoire Généalogique of France, 9 vol.-Gallia Christiana, the first edition 4to, the last f. 12 vol.-The Prior and Librarian dined [with us]: I waited on

1 The detestable ruffian, who afterwards conducted Louis the Sixteenth to the scaffold and commanded the troops that guarded it, during his murder.-MALONE.

them home. Their garden pretty, with covered walks, but small; yet may hold many students. The Doctors of the Sorbonne are all equal ;choose those who succeed to vacancies.-Profit little.

'Wednesday, Oct. 25. I went with the Prior to St. Cloud, to see Dr. Hooke. We walked round the palace, and had some talk.-I dined with our whole company at the monastery.-In the library, Beroald, ― Cymon, — Titus, from Boccace, Oratio Proverbialis to the Virgin, from Petrarch; Falkland to Sandys; Dryden's Preface to the third vol. of Miscellanies.1

Thursday, Oct. 26. We saw the china at Sêve cut, glazed, painted.-Bellevue, a pleasing house, not great; fine prospect. - Meudon, an old palace.-Alexander, in porphyry: hollow between eyes and nose, thin cheeks. - Plato and Aristotle. - Noble terrace overlooks the town-St Cloud.-Gallery not very high, nor grand, but pleasing.-In the rooms, Michael Angelo, drawn by himself, Sir Thomas More, Des Cartes, Bochart, Naudæus, Mazarine.— Gilded wainscot, so common that it is not minded.-Gough and Keene.-Hooke came to us at the inn.-A message from Drumgould.

Friday, Oct. 27. I stayed at home.-Gough and Keene, and Mrs S's friend dined with us. This day we began to have a fire.-The weather is grown very cold, and I fear has a bad effect upon my breath, which has grown much more free and easy in this country.

'Saturday, Oct. 28. I visited the Grand Chartreux built by St. Louis.-It is built for forty, but contains only twenty-four, and will not maintain more. The friar that spoke to us had a pretty apartment.-Mr. Baretti says four rooms; I remember but three.--His books seemed to be French.-His garden was neat; he gave me grapes. We saw the Place de Victoire, with the statues of the King, and the captive nations.

'We saw the palace and gardens of Luxembourg, but the gallery was shut.-We climbed to the top stairs.-I dined with Colbrooke, who had much company:-Foote, Sir George Rodney, Motteux, Udson, Taaf.-Called on the Prior, and found him in bed.

'Hotel-a guinea a day.-Coach, three guineas a week.-Valet de place, three 1. a day.-Avant coureur, a guinea a week.-Ordinary dinner, six 1. a head.-Our ordinary seems to be about five guineas a day. Our extraordinary expenses, as diversions, gratuities, clothes, I cannot reckon. -Our travelling is ten guineas a day. 'White stockings, 18 1.2 Wig.-Hat. 'Sunday, Oct. 29. We saw the boardingschool, the Enfans trouvés. A room with about eighty-six children in cradles, as sweet as

He means, I suppose, that he read these different pieces while he remained in the library.-BOSWELL. 2 Eighteen livres. Two pair of white silk stockings were probably purchased.-MALONE.

a parlour. They lose a third; take in to perhaps more than seven [years old]; put them to trades; pin to them the papers sent with them.-Want nurses.-Saw their chapel.

'Went to St. Eustatia; saw an innumerable company of girls catechised, in many bodies, perhaps 100 to a catechist.-Boys taught at one time, girls at another.-The sermon; the preacher wears a cap, which he takes off at the name :--His action uniform, not very violent.

'Monday, Oct. 30. We saw the library of St. Germain.-A very noble collection.-Codex Divinorum Officiorum, 1459:-A letter, square like that of the Offices, perhaps the same.-The Codex by Fust and Gernsheym.—Meursius, 12 v. fol.-Amadis, in French, 3 v. fol.-CATHOLICON sine colophone, but of 1460.-Two other editions,' one by Augustin. de Civitate

Dei without name, date, or place, but of Fust's square letter as it seems.

'I dined with Col. Drumgould; had a pleasing afternoon.

'Some of the books of St. Germain's stand in presses from the wall, like those at Oxford.

Tuesday, Oct. 31. I lived at the Benedictines; meagre day; soup meagre; herrings, eels, both with sauce; fried fish ; lentils, tasteless in themselves. In the library, where I found Maffeus's de Historiâ Indicâ : Promontorium flectere, to double the Cape. I parted very tenderly from the Prior and Friar Wilkes.

'Maitre des Arts, 2 y.-Bacc. Theol. 3 y.Licentiate, 2 y.-Doctor Th. 2 y. in all, 9 years. For the Doctorate three disputations, Major, Minor, Sarbonica.-Several colleges suppressed, and transferred to that which was the Jesuits' College.

'Wednesday, Nov. 1. We left Paris.-St. Denis, a large town; the church not very large, but the middle aisle is very lofty and awful.On the left are chapels built beyond the line of the wall, which destroyed the symmetry of the sides. The organ is higher above the pavement than any I have ever seen.-The gates are of brass.-On the middle gate is the history of our Lord.-The painted windows are historical, and said to be eminently beautiful. We were at another church belonging to a convent, of which the portal is a dome; we could not enter farther, and it was almost dark.

Thursday, Nov. 2. We came this day to Chantilly, a seat belonging to the Prince of Condé. This place is eminently beautified by all varieties of water starting up in fountains,

1 I have looked in vain into De Bure, Meerman, Maittaire, and other typographical books for the two editions of the Catholicon, which Dr. Johnson mentions here, with names which I cannot make out: I read, 'one by Latinius, one by Boedinus.' I have deposited the original Ms. in the British Museum, where the curious may see it. My grateful acknowledgments are due to Mr. Planta for the trouble he was pleased to take in aiding my researches.-BOSWELL.

falling in cascades, running in streams, and spread in lakes.-The water seems to be too near the house. All this water is brought from a source or river three leagues off, by an artificial canal, which for one league is carried underground. The house is magnificent.-The cabinet seems well stocked; what I remember was the jaws of a hippopotamus, and a young hippopotamus preserved, which however is so small that I doubt its reality. It seems too hairy for an abortion, and too small for a mature birth. Nothing was preserved in spirits; all was dry.-The dog; the deer; the ant-bear, with long snout.-The toucan, long broad beak. The stables were of very great length. The kennel had no scents.-There was a mockery of a village. The menagerie had few animals.-Two faussans,2 or Brazilian weasels, spotted, very wild.-There is a forest, and I think a park.-I walked till I was very weary, and next morning felt my feet battered, and with pains in the toes.

'Friday, Nov. 3. We came to Compeigne, a very large town, with a royal palace built round a pentagonal court.-The court is raised upon vaults, and has I suppose an entry on one side by a gentle rise.-Talk of painting.-The church is not very large, but very elegant and splendid. -I had at first great difficulty to walk, but motion grew continually easier.--At night we came to Noyon, an episcopal city.--The cathedral is very beautiful, the pillars alternately Gothic and Corinthian. We entered a very noble parochial church.-Noyon is walled, and is said to be three miles round.

wrote any more after this time, I know not; but probably not much, as he arrived in England about the 12th of November. These short notes of his tour, though they may seem minute taken singly, make together a considerable mass of information, and exhibit such an ardour of inquiry and acuteness of examination as I believe are found in but few travellers, especially at an advanced age. They completely refute the idle notion which has been propagated, that he could not see; and if he had taken the trouble to revise and digest them, he undoubtedly could have expanded them into a very entertaining narrative.

When I met him in London the following year, the account which he gave me of his French tour was, 'Sir, I have seen all the visibilities of Paris, and around it; but to have formed an acquaintance with the people there, would have required more time than I could stay. I was just beginning to creep into acquaintance by means of Colonel Drumgould, a very high man, sir, head of L'Ecole Militaire, a most complete character, for he had first been a professor of rhetoric, and then became a soldier. And, sir, I was very kindly treated by the English Benedictines, and have a cell appropriated to me in their convent.'

He observed, 'The great in France live very magnificently, but the rest very miserably. There is no happy middle state as in England. The shops of Paris are mean; the meat in the markets is such as would be sent to a gaol in England; and Mr. Thrale justly observed that the cookery of the French was forced upon them by necessity; for they could not eat their meat unless they added some taste to it. The French are an indelicate people; they will spit upon any place. At Madame's,' a literary lady of rank, the footman took the sugar in his fingers, and threw it into my coffee. I was going to put it aside; but hearing it was made on purpose for me, I e'en tasted Tom's fingers. The same lady would needs make tea à l'Angloise. The spout of the tea-pot did not pour freely; she bade the footman blow into it. France is worse than Scotland in everything but climate. Nature has done more for the French; but they have done less for themselves than the Scotch have

1 The writing is so bad here, that the names of several of the animals could not be deciphered without much more acquaintance with natural history than I possess. Dr. Blagden, with his usual politeness, most obligingly examined the Ms. To that gentleman, and to Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, who also very readily assisted me, I beg leave to express my best thanks.-BosWELL.

2 It is thus written by Johnson, from the French pronunciation of fossane. It should be observed that the person who showed this menagerie was mistaken in supposing the fossane and the Brazilian weasel to be, the same, the fossane being a different animal, and a native of Madagascar. I find them, however, upon one plate in Pennan's Synopsis of Quadrupeds.-BOSWELL.

3 My worthy and ingenious friend, Mr. Andrew

'JAMES BOSWELL.'

Mr. Maclean returned with the most agreeable accounts of the polite attention with which he was received by Dr. Johnson.

In the course of this year Dr. Burney informs me that he very frequently met Dr. Johnson at Mr. Thrale's, at Streatham, where they had many long conversations, often sitting up as long as the fire and candles lasted, and much longer than the patience of the servants subsisted.'

A few of Johnson's sayings, which that gentleman recollects, shall here be inserted :—

'I never take a nap after dinner but when I have a bad night, and then the nap takes me.' 'The writer of an epitaph should not be considered as saying nothing but what is strictly true. Allowance must be made for some degree of exaggerated praise. In lapidary inscriptions a man is not upon oath.'

"There is now less flogging in our great schools than formerly, but then less is learned there; so that what the boys get at one end they lose at the other.'

'More is learned in public than in private schools from emulation; there is the collision of mind with mind, or the radiation of many minds pointing to one centre. Though few boys make their own exercises, yet if a good exercise is given up, out of a great number of boys, it is made by somebody.'

'I hate by-roads in education. Education is as well known, and has long been as well known as ever it can be. Endeavouring to make children prematurely wise is useless labour. Suppose they have more knowledge at five or six years old than other children, what use can be made of it? It will be lost before it is wanted, and the waste of so much time and labour of the teacher can never be repaid. Too much is expected from precocity, and too little performed. an instance of early cultivation, but in what did it terminate? In marrying a little Presbyterian parson who keeps an infant boarding-school, so that all her employment now is,

Miss

1 was

"To suckle fools, and chronicle small beer." She tells the children, "This is a cat, and that is a dog, with four legs and a tail; see there! you are much better than a cat or a dog, for you can speak." If I had bestowed such an education on a daughter, and had discovered that she thought of marrying such a fellow, I would have sent her to the Congress.'

'After having talked slightingly of music, he was observed to listen very attentively while Miss Thrale played on the harpsichord, and with eagerness he called to her, "Why don't you dash

1 Miss Aikin, who afterwards became Mrs. Barbauld.

Dr. Burney upon this said to him, "I believe, sir, we shall make a musician of you at last." Johnson, with candid complacency, replied, "Sir, I shall be glad to have a new sense given to me."

'He had come down one morning to the breakfast-room, and been a considerable time by himself before anybody appeared. When on a subsequent day he was twitted by Mrs. Thrale for being very late, which he generally was, he defended himself by alluding to the extraordinary morning when he had been too early. 'Madam, I do not like to come down to vacuity."

66

'Dr. Burney having remarked that Mr. Garrick was beginning to look old, he said, "Why, sir, you are not to wonder at that; no man's face has had more wear and tear."'

Not having heard from him for a longer time than I supposed he would be silent, I wrote to him December 18th, not in good spirits. Sometimes I have been afraid that the cold which has gone over Europe this year like a sort of pestilence has seized you severely; sometimes my imagination, which is upon occasions prolific of evil, hath figured that you may have somehow taken offence at some part of my conduct.'

'TO JAMES BOSWELL, ESQ. 'December 23, 1775. 'DEAR SIR,-Never dream of any offence. How should you offend me? I consider your friendship as a possession, which I intend to hold till you take it from me, and to lament if ever by my fault I should lose it. However, when such suspicions find their way into your mind, always give them vent; I shall make haste to disperse them; but hinder their first ingress if you can. Consider such thoughts as morbid.

'Such illness as may excuse my omission to Lord Hailes I cannot honestly plead. I have been hindered, I know not how, by a succession of petty obstructions. I hope to mend imme. diately, and to send next post to his Lordship. Mr. Thrale would have written to you if I had omitted; he sends his compliments and wishes