passages, and galleries, so numerous that it would take a whole day at least to give an outline plan of them. One of the doors that fronted the north was richly sculptured in the most beautiful style, with devices of leaves, wreaths, flowers, bound around the stem by ribbands, and cut in a full relief of at least six inches above the surface. On each side of this doorway were sculptured blocks projecting about two feet from the wall; and in the centre of the architrave above the door was sculptured a small Grecian helmet. The space of entrance was nearly square, being about ten feet high and ten feet wide, as far as the eye could estimate these dimensions: and it was once closed with stone doors: the whole effect was rich in the extreme. The access to this building

was through an open court, with a double colonnade, and in front of this a Corinthian portico, on two pillars of which, to the right on entering, were two brackets for the reception of small statues, as seen projecting from the columns in many of the avenues at Palmyra.

On the east of the stream which descends here from the mountains in small cataracts, and is now broad and rapid from the melting of the snows, is a small building like a Roman temple; and a few paces to the north of this is a little theatre, facing to the west, and having the stream which winds here to the northward, running along in front of the spectators as they sat, as is the case also with the large theatre at Amman. The water after passing by this edifice turns to the west, and goes down to Nedjeraun in the plain. The rock rises steeply behind this theatre of Gunnawat, which appears to have rested on it for support, another striking feature of resemblance with the theatre to which it has been already compared, and from which probably it may have been copied. This theatre is smaller than either of those at Geraza, but its situation is much more pleasing, as the valley below it must have been always cool and shady, and the noise of the water running by it peculiarly soothing and agreeable.

Although the principal edifices at Gunnawat are much destroyed, and the whole of them in a state of ruin, it is remarkable that there are no appearances of Mohammedan works erected over these, or out of their fragments, as is the case in almost all the other cities and towns in this eastern region. The presence of the theatre indicates with certainty that this was once a settlement of the Romans, when the whole of this country was annexed to the empire as one of its colonies: and many of the principal edifices were certainly Roman temples for the worship of their particular deities. In the course of events, these came to be converted into Christian places of worship by the Greeks of the Lower Empire, who probably engrafted the emblem of the cross on what were originally Pagan edifices, and also affixed many of their inscriptions on such buildings at the period of their being dedicated to the service of their new faith. But no Arabic or Saracen works were seen amidst all the numerous and varied assemblage of ruins here: so that it is probable, at least, that it might have escaped them in the fury of their conquests. I know of no place that would furnish a richer harvest to a traveller possessed of leisure and the means of research than this; and I had again to feel deep and poignant regret at the circumstances which made it impossible for me to prosecute my enquiries with that minuteness which I had ardour enough to desire, and should have had perseverance enough to accomplish, had but time and fortune, with a freedom from other engagements, justified the pursuit.

By the time that I had made this hurried visit to the places described, the refreshments preparing for us at the house of the principal Druse resident were ready, and we returned to partake of them with increased zest. As we sat on the terrace of the Druse's house to partake of our morning meal, and were at once admiring and enjoying the extensive view of the Hauran which we commanded from hence, extending from this eastern range of hills to the mountains west of the Jordan, our Druse entertainer observed, that there was another Hauran behind us to the eastward,

(by which he meant a plain in all other respects similar to this,) which he afterwards added was even more extensive and more fertile than the western one. He assured us also that it was full of ruined cities and towns, larger and better built than Gunnawāt, with churches, palaces, theatres, and other edifices. There were at present no permanent residents in any of these towns, though they are all occasionally occupied by parties of the Desert Arabs, who find pasture for their camels and flocks in their neighbourhood. For this reason it would be difficult for any traveller to range over the eastern plain without a strong escort; but for one who had the liberty and the means, there could be no more promising field to reward his enterprise. The names of these ruined towns are known only to the Arabs of the Desert, though several of our party in their occasional intercourse with the eastern tribes, had seen and passed through many of them; but as these were unpeopled, and they had no particular motive for enquiring their names, they took no pains to learn them.

The few Druses that we saw here were handsome, well-dressed, clean, and polite in their manners. We ate our food out of earthenware vessels, and drank out of brass bowls lined with tin; and the Druses and myself made an excellent repast, though my guides, being rigid Christians of the Greek faith, still kept their fast by abstaining from all kinds of animal food, even eggs, butter, and milk, and confining themselves to bread, vegetables, and oil. This gave occasion for another discussion respecting fasting, which the Druses approved as to the matter, but disapproved as to the manner, saying that satisfying the appetite at any hour of the day, whatever the description of food might be, was not fasting at all; and that the only true fasting was a total abstinence from all kinds of food for some specific period, such as the Ramadan of the Mohammedans, from sunrise to sunset. I was surprised to learn during this debate, that though the Druses dislike the Mohammedans generally, and entertain no tenet in common with their faith, yet that many of them have been so infected with

their customs, as to keep the fast of Ramadan with as much rigour as the most orthodox follower of the Arabian prophet; in the same manner that the Mussulmans of India, though they profess to hate and despise the Hindoos, have nevertheless adopted so many of their superstitions and ceremonies, as to be regarded by their western brethren as little better than infidels and idolaters.

The passion of all classes of people in these countries for arms, has frequently been remarked; and, as usual, we had a long dispute about the relative value of different weapons from different countries, in which the sabres of Ispahaun and Damascus were unanimously preferred, and the muskets and pistols of England praised above all others. I did not much wonder at this opinion, as it is justly and universally prevalent in the East; but I was both surprised and pleased to see one of the Druses produce, at this remote and unfrequented spot, an excellent fowling-piece, with the name of "Webb, London" on the lock, as evincing the manner in which our manufactures are sure, sooner or later, to spread themselves everywhere,

WE E quitted the interesting ruins of Gunnawat at noon: and descending to the westward through a stony country covered with thorny shrubs and bushes, we came in an hour to the large ruined town of Ateel.

At the south end of this is a small but beautiful Corinthian temple, facing the north, the sculptured ornaments of which are richly designed, and executed in a bold relief; concave niches were remarked in several parts of it, and square pedestals, projecting from the front columns half way up their height, as if for supporting small statues.

At the south end are the remains also of a small temple, and from the south front of this, near the eastern corner, I copied the following inscription, deeply cut.