much further to the eastward, on my journey from Jerusalem to Jerash; from which I could discover that it discharged itself into the Jordan much farther to the southward than is represented in the maps. We observed at this place an artificial canal of nearly a mile in length, for carrying the waters of the Zerkah to the ruined aqueduct described. The main stream itself was narrower here than we had found it farther to the east; but, on the other hand, it was deeper and more rapid in its course. At the spot where we forded it, there were appearances of walls and buildings on its banks, now half-hidden by tall reeds from twelve to fifteen feet in height, oleanders, and other trees ́ and shrubs. On both sides of the stream were seen patches of partial cultivation; the corn on its banks being now green.

From this ford of Zerkah we went up a steep ascent on the south, over a hill called Arkoob Massaloobeah; this hill forming the southern, and Jebel Adjeloon the northern boundary of the

stream.

While we were ascending the hill, our new Arab guides discovered a fray in the plain, between their companions, whom they had left in charge of their spoils, and the owners of the stolen cattle, who had pursued the robbers and overtaken them. Nothing could surpass the ardour and animation with which these men rushed instantly down to the assistance of their fellows. Both Georgis and myself were off our guard at this moment, so that the Arabs, taking advantage of this circumstance, rushed on us, seized our muskets, and ran violently down the hill. I alighted from my horse to pursue the man who had taken mine, and after a hard struggle recovered it, though Georgis, making no effort, suffered his to be carried off without resistance. The Arabs had thrown aside their upper garments to be light for the chase, and my companion taking possession of these as some compensation for the loss of his musket, we pursued our way, not even staying to see the result of the contest, as we were anxious to reach Assalt before the night closed in.

We were nearly two hours in getting up this steep hill, though it was of inconsiderable height. When we reached its summit, we could perceive from thence the mountains of Jerash to the N.N.E. of us, with two ruined villages to the eastward, called Hharatein; and a little further on were pointed out, to the northward of east, the positions of Sihhan and Ullan, two ruined buildings that I had before passed on my way from Jerusalem to Jerash.

On the summit of Jebel Arkoob Massaloobeeah, we found a level plain extending to the southward and eastward, having a fine light red soil, with turf and thistles, besides a number of oak trees scattered over its surface. The unexpected appearance of such a plain on this high level was an agreeable contrast to the low and barren ground that we had just left, particularly as this elevated tract bore every mark of having once enjoyed, and being still capable of maintaining, the highest degree of fertility.

We found on this fine plain the remains of some apparently very ancient place, the traces of which were but barely visible. They were unquestionably, however, the remains of a town of some consequence; for, besides the vestiges of walls, marks of foundations, and lines of enclosures in the land, there were several fragments of stone columns scattered around. The shafts of these were perfectly plain, and composed of circular pieces placed one above the other; the capitals were rude square masses, in some instances detached from, and in others formed out of, the same block as the upper part of the shaft; there were no traces of sculpture on any of the blocks, either as mouldings or flutings: all was plain and rude, and bore the marks of the highest antiquity.

The spot is called by the Arabs, Massaera, and Mashaera; and as its position corresponds with that assigned to the ancient city of Machaerus, there can be little doubt but that the remains are those of the city of that name.

After passing over this plain about a mile to the south-east, we began to ascend another range of hills, the base of which lay on this high level tract, and which was called Jebel Assalt. On the brow of

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the ascent, we observed several small encampments of Bedouin Arabs, and in one of the hollow valleys which lay on the left of our road, were seen the tents of the Beni Abad, the tribe to which our robber-guides belonged. My companion, Georgis, who had lost his musket, was impatient to go down to them, and demand redress from the sheikh for the loss he had sustained at the hands of some of his people; but as the road was rocky and bad, the night drawing on, and we had but an hour of sunshine, of which we stood in need to keep us warm and dry, I was determined to push on rather than risk being obliged to pass another night without shelter.

In ascending Jebel Assalt we soon came to the snow, which lay thicker and deeper the higher we ascended. We had, indeed, almost despaired of getting over the summit of the hill before dark, which gave rise to a warm dispute; my companion wishing to go down to the Arab tents to pass the night, and I being determined to persevere. In the midst of this hot and angry debate, and just as we were turning the angle of a rocky pass, two men on foot, who must have lain concealed waiting for our approach, sprung upon us from behind an opening, and seized the bridles of our horses. They were armed with sabres only, which they idly flourished in the air; and had their faces covered with the keffeah, or kerchief, worn beneath the turban, after the manner of the Arabs when they attack, leaving nothing but the eyes to be seen, which renders it impossible to recognize a murderer if he escapes, or trace on whose head the blood of the victim lies. With these men, as it has already been with those who had interrupted us in the valley of the Jordan, the sight of a musket was sufficient; I presented my piece cocked, and ready to discharge, when they instantly abandoned their hold, and sued for mercy. Had they been determined, they might have cut us both down from our horses before we could have been prepared for our defence, so suddenly did they spring upon us from their hiding place; but their resolution failing, they were glad to sneak off in safety; and

when they had got at some distance from us they set up a shout of defiance and triumph at their escape.

We found the summit of Jebel Assalt to be like that of Arkoob Massaloobeeah below it; a fine fertile plain, with undulations here and there, a rich green turf, abundance of wood, and pines nodding on the surrounding eminences. From hence we enjoyed a magnificent view, as beautiful in many of its features as it was grand in the whole; and extending in every direction almost as far as the range of vision.

Among other objects within sight from the summit of this mountain was a small portion of the Bahr-el-Loot, or the Sea of Loot, the name given by all the Arabs of these parts to the Dead Sea. The north-west extremity of this sea was the portion seen from hence; and the nearest part of it appeared to be distant from us about twelve or fifteen miles. The picture which the Valley of the Jordan presented to us from this spot was highly interesting. From the southern edge of the Lake of Tiberias to the mosque of Abu-el-Beady, the plain appeared to be partially cultivated on each side; and the clusters of black Arab tents seen scattered over the bare yellow patches of the uncultivated parts, formed a fine contrast to the rich green of the young corn growing all around them. To the southward of Abu-el-Beady the valley presented a white, parched, and barren aspect; while the sterility of the hills that bordered the Sea of Death, increased as the eye traced them in the distance.

We had still a slight ascent to make, and reached the extreme summit of the mountain soon after four o'clock. The cold here was excessive; and the snow, presenting one unbroken mass, was hardened into solid frost. We had no means of determining accurately the height of the mountain on which we stood; but from a rough estimate of our progressive ascent, and the extreme depth of the Jordan and the Dead Sea at our feet, as contrasted with other mountain views of which I retained a perfect recollec

tion, I should consider the height to be about 5,000 feet from the level of the ocean.

Tradition confirms the Arabs of the country in the belief, that this is the summit of Mount Nebo. On the very peak of the highest eminence stands a tomb, with other common graves around it. This is called the tomb of Nebbe Osha, or the prophet Joshua ; and the belief is general, that the successor of Moses was buried here. The humbler graves around it are said to be those of Jews who had chosen this as the place of their sepulchre. The tomb appeared to me to be a Mohammedan structure, differing little in exterior appearance from the reputed tomb of Rachel, between Jerusalem and Bethlehem; but we did not go near enough to examine it closely.

Leaving these graves on our right, we began to descend to the eastward over a terraced slope, deeply covered with snow; but neither so hardly frozen, nor its mass so unbroken as we had found it on the other side of the mountain. At five o'clock, while descending the hill, we passed a small place called Cafr-el-Yahoodi, or the village of the Jews, probably an old settlement of that people residing near the reputed tomb of their prophet Joshua; and a few minutes after passing this we came in sight of Assalt.

Approaching this town from the west, we passed through a narrow valley, terraced all around with little corn plots, and beds of vines, though the soil was now covered with snow. The most prominent object of the view was a large castle standing on the edge of a rock, which, from its steep site and elevation, as seen through a long valley, had an imposing aspect.