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ASIDE from water there were few if any table drinks in the seventeenth century. Cider was sometimes drank with food about the middle of the century and afterward for a hundred years. Wine was also drank, but sparingly. The only early beverage that would today be esteemed a proper table drink was chocolate, which was then manufactured by Spaniards. When an unusual treat was desired, a kettle was hung over the fire, and water, milk and chocolate mixed therein. This was brought to a boil, and drank.

Tea was unknown here in primitive times. Some of the wealthier families used it about 1718, and it slowly came into general use. Other people rarely indulged in the luxury, except when they had company. With the Revolution came the refusal to drink the tea of commerce, and our four-leaved loosestrife, being dried and steeped, was used in its stead. This was known as "Liberty tea." It was prepared by being pulled like flax, its stocks, stripped of their leaves, boiled, and the leaves put into an iron kettle and basted with the liquor from the stocks. After this process the leaves were removed into platters and placed in an oven to dry.

Coffee was not used here till about 1770. During the Revolution it was very scarce and high, and consequently but little was imported. In its place, rye, beets, peas, potatoes, and sweet corn were used, being roasted or burned, as coffee was, and then ground in the old-fashioned family coffee mills.

The earliest common drink of our early settlers was beer, which was strictly of two

kinds,-first, that fermented from malt liquors, with hops, etc., and second, the fermented extract of roots and other parts of plants, as spruce, ginger, sassafras, etc. Ale was a sweet beer, made strong, but with few hops. Beer continued to be the common drink of the settlers, the families brewing it themselves until the apple orchards began to bear. Then cider mills were erected and cider was made. This took the place of beer to a great extent, remaining the principal intoxicating drink of the rural sections to the present time. Brandy appears to a slight extent in early times, and a strong beer called mum was drank here for a short time about 1672, having been imported from Germany. Strong water was the name of any liquor that contained a large proportion of alcohol, with the exception of wine. Wine used here in early times was of several kinds. The sack, a sweet Spanish wine, resembling sherry, was the earliest variety. The white and claret were French wines. There were also the muskadel and alligant. Rum was used very early and has continued to be a common drink of the stronger sort. It was a liquor widely known and manufactured and was brought here at first from various European countries. It was distilled from the juice of the cane, the scummings of the juice from the boiling house, or from molasses, as in modern times. Whiskey is a later drink.

England furnished to our earliest settlers most of their intoxicating liquors, but soon the Spanish, French and Dutch vessels brought cargo after cargo of their respective productions to our shores.

Breweries were the first liquor manufactories here, being licensed first in 1637. These made the stronger beer. Maltsters boiled and dried the barley and wheat into malt for the brewers to make beer of. The malt establishments were coeval with the breweries. The settlers raised large crops of grain, and they took their barley to the maltsters to be malted, as they took their corn to the grist mill to be ground, or, later, their apples to the cider mill to be made into cider, the maltster taking his toll. Rum distilleries were established quite early, Emanuel Downing of Salem having the first one; it being erected in 1648.

The first reference to liquor here is found in a letter dated May 28, 1628, written by the governor of the New England company to the governor of the London plantation in New England, which says: "We pray your endeavor though there be much strong water sent for sale, yet so to order it, that the savages may not for lucre's sake be induced to the excessive use, or rather abuse, of it, and at any hand take care our people give no ill example. If any get drunk, make an example of them," etc.

There were no alcoholic, certainly no distilled, liquors among the Indians. They probably had some concoction made from plants, which slightly inebriated them, but nothing that could be compared with the "fire-water," which they called the strong liquors of their pale-faced supplanters. They had no moral sentiment to restrain them, and their lust for liquor was so great that they deeded away the land of their fathers, their own birthright, for a few drinks of rum. The town of Boxford, containing many thousands of acres, for instance, was purchased for nine pounds in money and " rum and vittels enuf," as the records have it.

All kinds of liquors were sold freely till July, 1633, when the general court passed a law that no person sell wine or strong water without license from the governor or deputy governor, and that no strong water should be sold or given to the Indians.

But in 1644 the general court changed its mind, saying that "It is not fit to deprive ye Indians of any lawful comfort which God alloweth to all men by ye use of wine," and passed a law making sales to Indians lawful. In 1654, the court, finding that the savages were "frequently overcome, and thereby guilty of swinish drunkenness," ordered that none but two persons in this county should sell to them, and they only when they deem it necessary. These two men first chosen were William Moody of Newbury and John Frye of Andover. Three years later, though the number of dealers had been reduced to two, the court says: "There being little or no reformation among the Indians, complaints from all parts of the country and frequent experience show that no moderation can be attained to prevent drunkenness amongst them, the fruits whereof are murder and other outrages," and it is ordered that they "hereby wholly prohibit all persons, of what quality soever, henceforth, to sell, truck, barter or give any strong liquors to any Indians, directly or indirectly, whether known by the name of rum, strong water, wine, strong beer, brandy, cider or perry, or any other strong liquor, going under any other name, whatsoever," except as medicine, on penalty of forty shillings per pint. Notwithstanding this strict prohibition in regard to selling to the Indians, the liquor dealers did sell to them, and the court in 1666, after speaking of the great increase of drunkenness among them, ordered, that every one finding, seeing, or knowing any Indians to have any strong liquor (except as medicine) should have power to seize the same, and arrest the possessor, who should be imprisoned until he told where he got it. This law was repealed in 1694, but the Indians by that time were seldom seen in the county.

The first court was established in Essex county in 1636, and in the first pages of its records the first trial for drunkenness appears.

The first revenue from liquor selling was obtained in 1636, when the court ordered