changes of fashion rather than to establish a garb that distinguished them from the world's people.

On his first landing in Pennsylvania, William Penn was habited in the Cavalier costume of the day, the gold bullion upon the coat being left off and the broadbrimmed hat worn without feathers. There were lace ruffles at the wrist, however, and some historians place a blue silk sash around the stalwart proportions of the Proprietary and a light dress sword by his side. A handsome, well-built man of thirtyeight was Penn at this time, with courtly, gracious manners, skilled in all manly exercises. With this picture in our minds, it is not difficult to believe the story handed down by Mrs. Preston, of the athletic Englishman entering into their games with the friendly Indians, and excelling them all in feats of agility, or that other tale about John Ladd. "Friend John, thou art Ladd by name, and a Ladd in comprehension !" exclaimed the Proprietary, when John Ladd signified his preference for ready money rather than for lots in payment for his ser

vices in laying out the new city of Philadelphia, adding, "Dost thou not know this will become a great city?"

The proscriptions and admonitions that came later from leading Friends at home and "visiting Friends" from abroad were issued in consequence of the large influx into Pennsylvania of persons of other ways of living and thinking, who brought with them temptations for the younger portion of the community, in dress, manners, and habits. This dangerous contagion from proximity to the world's people led the women Friends of Burlington, New Jersey, to issue a letter from their Yearly Meeting, in 1726, in which they besought their sisters to beware of "divers undue Liberties that are too frequently taken by some that walk among us and are accounted of us," adding,―

"We are willing in the pure love of Truth which hath mercifully visited our souls Tenderly to caution and advise our Friends against those things we think inconsistent with our Ancient Christian Testimony of plainness in Apparel. Some of which we think proper to particularize,-As first that immodest fashion of hooped Petticoats or the imitation of them either by

something put into their petticoats to make them sit full or wearing more than is necessary or any other imitation whatsoever which we take to be but a Branch springing from the same corrupt root of Pride. And also that none of our Friends accustom themselves to wear their Gowns with superfluous folds behind but plain and decent, nor to go without Aprons nor to wear superfluous Gathers or Pleats in their Caps or Pinners. Nor to wear their Heads dressed high behind, neither to cut or lay their hair on their Foreheads or Temples. And that Friends are careful to avoid wearing striped shoes."

That Friendly warnings and preachings against foolish fashions were not without effect we learn from a letter written by Thomas Chalkley to his wife from Tortola, in the West Indies, whither he went in 1741 upon a visitation:*

"I have a little more which I cant well omit and this is for those who wear hoops among us the Governours, wife her two Sisters Capt hunts wife & the young woman whose father turnd her out of Doors wore hoops before they were Convinced of ye principles of our friends being throughly Convinced ye Could

* Thomas Chalkley owned a large tract of land near Frankford. Here he lived, and on this property his son-in-law, Abel James, built a handsome and substantial house, which he called Chalkley Hall.

were [they could wear] ym no longer and Divers fine young people have Left ym of Since they have ye Same Excuses hear [here] all ye year as our girls has in Summer. The Grate Lord of all gird our youth with the Girdle of truth and then they will not need those monstrous preposterous girdes of hoops I call it monstrous because if almighty God should make a woman in the same Shape her hoop makes her Everybody would Say truly So according to this real truth they make themselves Monsters by art."

Thrift and enterprise early insured a certain amount of substantial comfort among the settlers, while the great advantages offered by fine harbors all along the coast and the various marketable products of the country soon enabled them to build up an extensive trade with the East and West Indies, Spain, Portugal, and other countries. Foreign luxuries thus found their way to the Colonies, adding much to the pleasures of life, and seaport towns gained a wider outlook into the world beyond through the tales of adventure brought home by their sailor sons, such tales as Eleanor Putnam describes the Salem children enjoying upon evenings when "My Cousin the Captain" and his

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old friend sailed again the voyages of their youth, disputing and agreeing again after the fashion of old-time cronies.

The most notable instance of a fortune made upon the seas is that of the Pepperell family. The first William Pepperell came from Tavistock, England, to the Isle of Shoals, where he and his partner, Mr. Gibbons, sent out their fishing smacks on the shores, and later set up an establishment on one of the islands for the curing and sale of their fish. On a visit to Kittery Point, Pepperell made the acquaintance of John Bray, from Plymouth, whose seventeenyear-old daughter, Margery, he fell in love with and married, a successful venture on the part of the suitor having given Mr. Bray sufficient confidence in him to be willing to accept him as a son-in-law. Mr. Bray gave his daughter a tract of land upon the Point, where William Pepperell built a house, which was considerably added to by his son, Sir William Pepperell. From this small beginning, in a little more than half a century, the largest fortune in New England was accumulated. The Pepper