thought of more than once as a convenient place of transit-the Isthmus of Chiriqui.

***

The best information concerning this route is derived from the examination made by the Chiriqui commission commanded by Commodore Frederick Engle, United States navy, of which Commander Jeffors was the hydrographic engineer, and First Lieutenant J. St. Clair Morton, who fell at Petersburg, the topographical engineer. Commodore Engle describes the harbor of Chiriqui as "large, deep and well protected." Commander Jeffers confirms the accuracy of the survey of Captain (now Rear-Admiral) Barnett, royal navy, and adds: "No finer harbors can be found than those on the Atlantic side, Shepherd's harbor included. He says also of Golfito, in Golfo Dulce, on the Pacific side, that "it is unsurpassed in natural facilities, three streams, the Golfito, Coisal and the Canaza enter the harbor and afford an ample supply of fresh water." Lieutenant Morton landed at Frenchman's creek and crossed the isthmus twice, in doing which he explored a swamp of great extent, and discovered a hitherto unknown pass through the Cordilleras. His examination resulted in "the conviction that it is entirely practicable to connect the harbors by a line of railroad adapted to commercial purposes." But since Lieutenant Morton describes his work as a reconnoissance merely, made with the Schmalcalder compass, and has left no map, journal or note book in the archives of the War Department, I am unable to trace his route precisely, and have accordingly laid it down on the general map with a broken line.

a

Mr. Evans, the geologist of the Chiriqui commission, made examinations to ascertain the extent and value of the coal deposits on the Chriqui lands. He found "coal seams varying in quality from lignites to semibituminous and semi-anthracite coals." * * * "The supply is abundant." He found "gold and ores of iron, copper and platinum, * * rich mineral region." The plains are described as being fertile and abounding in timber. Concerning a portion of the province of Chiriqui known as the Territory of Burica, we have some interesting information from J. H. Smith, of Panama, a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society. I have cited him among my authorities for the convenience of the future student or explorer, when the region is again brought under examination.

PANAMA.

There is no part of the American isthmus with which we are so well acquainted as the old route of Porto Bello or Chagres to old or new Panama, the established line of communication since the year 1532that is, since twenty three years after the first settlement in America. The surveys made by the engineers of the Panama railroad have established the important fact that the difference between the mean level of the two oceans is either nothing, or so slight as to present no obstacle to the construction of a canal. The difficulties pertain altogether to the climate, to the elevation, the nature of the soil and the supply of water.

The harbors which would form the termini of the canal are, on the Atlantic side Navy Bay, and on the Pacific side the bay of Vaca del Monte. We know that Navy Bay is an insecure anchorage at certain periods of

the year, and the barbor on the Pacific is altogether insufficient for vessels of even moderate draught. M. Garella is obliged to include in his estimates the sum of a million and a quarter of dollars for the improvement of this harbor. I have entered into these details of M. Garella's project because it presents a fair representation of the difficulties to be overcome in the construction of a navigable ship canal across the Isthmus of Panama proper; and in order to render this subject still more intelligible to the general reader, I have added Colonel Hughes' survey of the Panama Railroad in map No. 6, which contains the topographical features and profile of the route.

Geographers have which is contained On this Isthmus

I have spoken of the Isthmus of Panama proper. given the name of Darien to that part of the isthmus between the Panama line and the province of Choco. of Darien, as we shall call it, between the Panama line and the province of Choco, there are three other lines or places which have always commanded great interest, but which have never received the attention they merit. These three routes are from the Chepo or Bayanos River to San Blas or Mandinga (also called Gulf of Manzanilla) bay, from the Gulf of San Miguel to Caledonia Bay, and from the Gulf of San Miguel to the southern part of the Gulf of Uraba or Darien, or else to some point on the lower part of the Atrato below the mouth of the Cacarica. I will take up these three in the order now mentioned.

The first of these lines, from Chepo to San Blas, has always been the subject of special curiosity on account of the jealous exclusion by the Indians of all strangers from their territory. Our accurate knowledge of the geography of the coasts on both sides, enables us to determine that here is the narrowest part of the isthmus. This is of itself an important fact, and added to this a rumor or report has been received from the Indians in this vicinity that they are in the habit of hauling their canoes on wooden slides across the Cordilleras from the Mandinga River, and launching them in the waters of the Bayanos. This rumor, which is noticed by many writers, is particularly noticed by Mr. Oliphant, the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, in a paper read before that society on the 24th of April, 1865. The writer of that paper made a journey from Panama to the Chepo or Bayanos River simply for a reconnoissance, and he says that the tide of the Pacific extends to within fifteen miles of the northern coast, and that he saw from Chepo a remarkable depression in the mountain chain about ten miles distant. He makes the remark, in which all will concur, that it is a discredit to the civilization of the nineteenth century that this part of the isthmus should not have been explored. This is not owing, however, to a want of effort. Attempts to cross the isthmus at this point were made by Mr. Hopkins and Mr. Wheelwright. They were both driven back by the aborigines.

It is very gratifying to have it in my power to say that this discredit to the civilization of the nineteenth century has been removed by the indefatigable zeal and enterprise of Mr. Frederick M. Kelley, of New York, of whom it was justly said by the President of the Institution of Civil Engi neers of London, that he "had produced more intelligible information towards the solution of this problem, of such vast importance to the commercial and political interests of the world, than had hitherto been given;" and of whom Sir R. Murchison, Vice-President of the Royal Geographical

Society, also said that he "heartily wished he might succeed in this great and philanthropic project, which so deeply interested all civilized nations." After having spent a great deal of labor and money upon the examination of the Atrato and San Juan rivers in search of a suitable route for an interoceanic canal across the province of Choco, Mr. Kelley and his friends, in 1864, took up the long deferred, but much coveted, exploration of the route from the Chepo to Gulf of San Blas. The results of this exploration are given in the annexed map, numbered 7.

From Mr. Kelley's plans it will be perceived that the whole length of the route from ocean to ocean is only thirty miles. On the north there is the admirable, spacious and deep harbor of San Blas; and on the south the channel leading into the bay of Panama has not less than eighteen (18) feet of water at mean low tide, while the ordinary rise of tide is sixteen (16) feet. I give these figures from Mr. Kelley's survey; but I must observe that this result of the examination by his engineer of the entrance of the Chepo is entirely unexpected, and does not accord with the Admiralty charts. But the most striking feature of the project, as of M. Garella's, is a tunnel, similar in its length and in other respects, to the great tunnel through the Alps at Mont Cenis, which is nearly one-half cut through, and in which the progress is so satisfactory that the period of its completion can be definitely fixed.

When the tunnel through Mont Cenis, and the still greater one through Mont St. Gothard, are finished and in use, such undertakings will cease to be regarded with the aversion we now feel towards them.

It must be observed, however, with regard to Mr. Kelley's survey, that owing to its being a private affair it was necessarily accomplished at the least expense and with the utmost expedition. It pursued a single line, without deviating to the right or left, although the surveyors were satisfied that they saw evidences of greater depression to the westward of their course; and there can be no doubt whatever that a deliberate examination, made under such advantages as would pertain to a governmental survey, would lessen the difficulties, and, perhaps, lead to the discovery of such a route through the valleys as would render a resort to tunnelling unnecessary. This subject will be resumed in the general remarks and recommendations with which the report will be concluded.

THE GREAT PRACTICABLE ROUTE-THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN-FROM THE GULF OF SAN MIGUEL TO CALEDONIA BAY.

The next place in order is the line between the Gulf of San Miguel and Caledonia Bay. We have here, at both ends of the line, harbors spacious and admirable in every respect, and, on the south side, there is a height of tide suited to the construction of docks for repairs, &c. It is held by many persons that no line of interoceanic canal merits serious attention unless it possesses this indispensable requisite of good natural harbors, requiring no artificial improvements, except those for the ordinary conveniences of commerce, such as wharves and docks. Certainly it will add very much to the difficulties and embarrassments, as well as to the expense of this great enterprise, to mix with it any doubtful questions of harbor improvement.

The greatest interest has always centered in this particular line on other

accounts. The first settlement in all America was in this vicinity, and the next settlement on the isthmus was at Ag.a, a few miles inland, on Caledonia bay. It was through this district of country that the buccaneers made frequent incursions upon the Spanish settlers, who had opened and were working mines at Cona, or Cana, and Espiritu Santo. The history of the buccaneers furnishes us with many interesting accounts of their incursions into this region. But since their topographical descriptions are not full enough to be traced on any modern map, it is sufficient merely to refer to them. It was, no doubt, owing to the success of buccaneers that Paterson was induced to settle at Darien with his Scotch colony. He derived the information on which he acted, in part, from personal intercourse with the surviving buccaneers. In one of his letters to the Court of Directors of the "Indian and African Company," cited by Dalrymple in his Memoirs of Great Britain, vol. 2, page 115, he says:"Gold may be gotten in very many places. No mines are worked or looked after that yield so low as half an ounce per day to the laborer. Often they yield four ounces per day. The mine of Cana is worked by a thousand negroes."

In our own time this line of communication has received more attention than any other, except the Panama line. The governments of Great Britain, France and the United States have each undertaken its exploration with a singular want of success. One English surveyor, Mr. Gisborne, entered the country from Caledonia bay, and, after reaching the summit of Cordillera, turned back. Captain Prevost, of the royal navy, led the exploring party which ascended the Savannah from the Gulf of San Miguel to the head of navigation, and thence cut his way through the woods and swamps until he reached the Cordillera, when he also turned back. He says in the official report of his proceedings, under date of January 4, 1854:-" Although finding ourselves in the centre of the Cordilleras, and, I believe, within a few miles of the object of our search, yet, having already exceeded the limits of my stay, it became my duty to rejoin the ship without delay, still feeling confident that had time and our provisions allowed us, we should eventually have reached the Atlantic shores, and that easily, by following one of the several rivers or streams which appear to exist in this range of hills, forming certain passages to the sea."

The expedition of Strain, though it called out a remarkable display of courage and endurance under the most fearful trials, was even less fruitful of knowledge than those of Gisborne and Prevost.

I have appended a map, numbered 8, of the joint exploration of the two English gentlemen here mentioned, taken from Gisborne's report to the Royal Geographical Society. It will be perceived that the routes of these two gentlemen join on to each other. Sections of both tracks are given on the map.

The only person in our time who claims to have crossed the isthmus directly between the two great bays is Dr. Cullen. Dr. Cullen says that on his first journey into Darien, in 1849, he was totally ignorant of the existence of the Savannah River until after he saw it, after entering Boca Chica, "when," he continues, "finding the great depth of water at its mouth, and that it flowed almost directly from the north, I became convinced that I had at last found the object of my search, viz: a feasible

route to the Atlantic; and thereupon I immediately ascended it, and crossed from Cañasas to the seashore at Port Ecocés, and back; and subsequently, in 1850, and also 1851, crossed and recrossed at several times and by several tracks the route from Savannah to Port Escocés and Caledonia Bay, notching the barks of the trees as I went along with a machete or cutlass, always alone and unaided, and always in the season of the heaviest rains. * * * And I had not the least hesitation in deciding that that must be the future route for interoceanic communication for ships.

The principal point of interest in this exploration is, of course, the pas sage of the Cordillera. Concerning this, Dr. Cullen says:-"From the seashore (Port Escocés), a plain extends for nearly two miles to the base of a ridge of hills, which runs parallel to the coast, and whose highest summit is about 350 feet. This ridge is not quite continuons and unbroken, but is divided by transverse valleys, through which the Aglaseniqua, Aglatomate and other rivers have their course, and whose highest elevations do not exceed 150 feet. The base of this ridge is only two miles in width, and from its south side a level plain extends for thirteen miles to a point on the Savana, called Cañasas, which is about twenty miles above its mouth."

No language could be more simple, explicit and direct than the language of this statement. Admitting it to be literally correct, we have to go no further; for the object of our search, the existence of a practicable route for an interoceanic ship canal, has been discovered.

Dr. Cullen's map, numbered 9, of the series appended to this report, presents a line of communication which combines all the advantages required by the engineer. It possesses the indispensable requisite of harbors of perfect security, sufficient depth of water and large capacity at both termini-that on the Pacific side having a rise of tide which adapts it to the construction of building and repairing docks, a circumstance the value of which cannot be over estimated. It cuts the Cordilleras at a depression at least thirty feet below any that has been reported, and several hundred feet below any that has actually been surveyed, or that has been approximately determined by trustworthy observers. The course of this line is direct, free from obstructions, and exceptionally healthy, while its outlets open upon coasts where violent storms are rarely known. The plains on each side of the dividing ridge are of easy slope and readily penetrated. The Savana River itself would form a part of the canal. And, finally, accepting the particular statement of Dr. Cullen as fully reliable, a ship canal may be cut on this line without locks, and even without tunnel, and yet not surpass either in difficulty, in labor, or in the amount of time or money consumed in its construction, several other monuments of human genius and enterprise in past times and in our own day.

Thus, for example, the Mexican Desague, of which Humboldt says, "in its actual state it is undoubtedly one of the most gigantic hydraulic operations ever executed by man. We are filled with admiration when we consider the nature of the ground and the enormous breadth, depth and length of the aperture. If the cut were filled with water to the depth of ten metres (328 feet) the largest vessels of war could pass through the range of mountains which bound the plains of Mexico to the northeast." (Humboldt, New Spain, volume 2d, pp. 110, 111.) "This wonderful work,"