the mutations occasioned by time, that but for the identity of name and position, there would be scarcely any marks left by which to recognise even the site of the proud emporium here alluded to. The stranger who visits it in its present state, will look around in vain for any of those vestiges of its former grandeur, which the description of the ancient historians would lead him to expect; and which, indeed, are still to be seen in most of the other celebrated cities of the East; whether in Greece, Egypt, Syria, or Asia Minor: all wears now a modern aspect, and that too of the most ordinary kind.

The present town of Seyda extends along the sea-shore for a space of less than a mile in length, and is not more than half a mile in its general breadth from the water to its inner border; standing on a gradually ascending slope, from the sea to the more elevated ground behind, its appearance from without is more pleasing than many other towns of a better description in their interior. Towards the sea-side an old castle, said to have been built by the crusaders of France, and the ruins of another running out at the extremity of a ledge of rocks, with arches, tend to give the harbour a picturesque appearance, particularly when a few of the native vessels of the coast are seen behind this ledge, where they usually anchor, for shelter if bound to some other port, or for convenience while discharging and taking in their cargoes here.

The buildings of Seyda are not at all superior to the common order of Mohammedan edifices in the modern towns of Syria the streets are extremely narrow, the mosques mean, the caravanserais small and incommodious, and the bazārs few and badly furnished with even the necessaries in general request.

The inhabitants are variously estimated, at from 5,000 to 10,000; perhaps the true number would be found to be between 7,000 and 8,000. The great majority of these are Mo

army. Ptolemy, giving over light credit to this report, made a truce with the Sidonians for five months; and putting garrisons into other cities which he had taken in those parts, returned into Egypt. Diod. Sic. b. 20. c. 5.

hammedans, the Christians not exceeding 1000, and the Jews less than 500. These sects appear to live in tolerable harmony with each other; more so, at least, than in the interior of the country generally: and, indeed, throughout the East, the sea ports are remarkable for their more tolerant spirit than the inland towns; arising, most probably, from the perpetual intermixture with foreigners and strangers, and the more powerful influence of commercial transactions in bringing self-interest to soften down the conflicting passions of opposing faiths.

The climate all around Seyda is peculiarly mild and healthy, as well as agreeable*; and the inhabitants are considered to be more exempt from the common maladies of the country than those of the neighbouring towns, including even the sea-ports on the same line of coast. The environs of the town furnish, also, some agreeably diversified rides and views, so as to make it an attractive place of residence for those whose business may confine them to some part of Syria, or a pleasing abode for those whom health or pleasure may detain within its precincts for a temporary period.

The occupations of the inhabitants are various. The greatest numbers of the peasantry are engaged in the cultivation of the mulberry tree, for the sake of the silk, which is here produced in great abundance, and of a tolerably good quality. Some portion of the raw material is exported; a much larger portion is, however, worked up into various articles of wearing apparel, principally garments suited to the dress and habits of the middle classes in the neighbouring districts. The manufacture of glass appears to be unknown here: though this part of the country was once

* Ammianus Marcellinus, in describing Syria and Phoenicia, mentions Sidon amongst its most agreeable and healthy towns. "Après la Syrie vient ensuite la Phenice, appuyée au Mont Liban, pays charmant et gracieux, qui decorent de grandes et belles cités, parmi lesquels, on remarque, pour son agrément et sa salubrité, Tyr, Sidon, Beryte, qu'. egalement Emesse et Damas anciennement baties." French Translation, Lyons 1778. Tom. i. b. 14. c. 8.

famous for the discovery of, as well as production of articles in, that material.* Dyeing, however, is still practised, though not with the same success as among the ancient Tyrians; and all the usual manufactures of small Mohammedan towns are carried on with about the same skill as in other parts of Syria, but certainly not more; the standard of this being every where much below that of the most backward nation in Europe.

The supplies of food are principally drawn from their own surrounding territory. Corn is raised in the fertile plains of Esdraelon and Zabulon, in Galilee and Samaria, as well as on the narrow slips of land between the foot of the mountains and the coasts nearer to Seyda itself. Rice is imported from Damietta in Egypt, and at a sufficiently cheap rate to admit of the poorest having a tolerable supply, Fish is still abundant in its waters, as of old †, and this forms a much larger proportion of the food of its inhabitants than flesh-meat; beef being but rarely seen, except among the richer order of merchants and the governor's dependants; and the sheep and goats which are slaughtered for daily use being limited, perhaps, to less than one fourth of the whole population. The usual fruits of the country are more abundant, and on these and bread many of the lower classes may be almost said to subsist.

In speaking of the spot which had been chosen by my kind and hospitable entertainer, Lady Hester Stanhope, for her residence near Seyda, and of the nature of the establishment maintained by

* The story of the discovery of glass by Phoenician mariners at Belus, near Sidon, and the rising of this river in a lake called Cendevia, at the foot of Mount Carmel, only five miles from the sea, is mentioned by Pliny. Nat. Hist. b. xxxvi. c. 26.

+ The nation of the Tyrians, descended from the Phoenicians, who, being shaken with an earthquake, and having abandoned their country, did first inhabit the Assyrian marsh, and not long afterwards the shore next unto the sea, where they built a city, and called it Sidon, from the abundance of fishes that were there; for the Phoenicians call a fish, Sidon. After the After the process of many years, being overcome by king Ascalon, they took shipping again, and did build the city of Tyre in the year before the destruction of Troy. Justin, b. xviii.

her in Syria, I feel all the embarrassment inseparable from a desire to communicate as much as may be considered of great public interest respecting the life and habits of this distinguished lady, and yet, to keep strictly within the limits prescribed by delicacy and gratitude towards one whom I shall never cease to remember with the strongest feelings of admiration and respect. I cannot be ignorant of the intense curiosity which the bare mention of her ladyship's name has repeatedly awakened, and that more especially in the bosoms of the most amiable among her own sex. In contrasting the motives and conduct of the most elevated women of England, whose ambition seems to be confined to the enjoyment of pleasures contained within the circle of fashionable life, with the more daring and romantic feelings that appear to actuate the lady who is the subject of these remarks; or in comparing the danger and enterprise of a life passed amid deserts and mountains, surrounded by wandering tribes, and fierce and hostile nations, with the quiet and seclusion of a domestic circle at home, all parties appear anxious to unriddle—what to them seems inexplicable the motive which could have led to such a choice as the former, by one who might have commanded all the pleasures that the latter is capable of affording. I have been questioned, in society, upon this point, by those who knew of my having remained under Lady Hester's roof for a short period *, to very weariness; for, after assigning what I have always understood and believed to be the true

In the preface to the Travels in Palestine, the following passage occurs, which may be repeated here. "This journey of twelve long months was protracted by dangers and obstacles which no one had foreseen, and rendered tedious by repeated illness arising from sufferings and privations in the way. My recovery from these I owed, in one instance, to the hospitable attentions I received in the convent of Mar Elias, from the hands of the amiable Lady Hester Stanhope, a name that deserves to be immortalized, if talents and virtues of the highest order can give claim to immortality; and in another to the friendly offices of Mr. and Mrs. Rich, in the bosom of whose society at Baghdad, I found all the consolations which benevolence and sympathy could bestow; and all the pleasures that learning, accomplishments, and refined taste could yield."

motive of this self-exile from her native land, the enquiring parties being unable to understand what they themselves, perhaps, have never felt, have evidently remained in all their former incredulity, and given up the riddle (for so it appeared to them) in despair. When the causes of incredulity are so deep-rooted as these, they are too difficult to be removed by a brief narrative; but, observing as well as I am able, the limits which a sense of gratitude, as well as honor, prescribe to me, I will endeavour to communicate what I have myself heard, and have long been accustomed to consider as correct upon this subject, though without being able to vouch for its entire accuracy.

It is known to most Englishmen, that Lady Hester Stanhope was a near relative of the late Mr. Pitt; and, that during the latter part of his administration especially, she enjoyed his friendship and confidence in a very high degree. This circumstance necessarily brought her more frequently into the society of the several members of the Royal family, of the many distinguished foreigners who then sought an asylum in England, and of the ministerial circles generally, than even her distinguished birth and connections would, without such associations, alone have effected. Her superior understanding and fascinating manners could not fail, under any circumstances, to command a large share of the respect and esteem of those who were brought within their sphere of influence; but, added to the high confidence which she was known to enjoy with the minister of the day, from personal regard as well as near relationship, the influence of these amiable and attractive qualities were, of course, additionally powerful. The necessary consequence of this was the receipt of a large portion of homage from an extended circle, and abundant means of gratifying all the benevolent wishes, which it must form one of the most delightful prerogatives of power to indulge, that of assisting merit to obtain what its unaided claims would never procure, the distinction and reward it deserved.