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the ascent, we observed several small encampments of Bedouin Arabs, and in one of the hollow valleys which lay on the left of our road, were seen the tents of the Beni Abad, the tribe to which our robber-guides belonged. My companion, Georgis, who had lost his musket, was impatient to go down to them, and demand redress from the sheikh for the loss he had sustained at the hands of some of his people; but as the road was rocky and bad, the night drawing on, and we had but an hour of sunshine, of which we stood in need to keep us warm and dry, I was determined to push on rather than risk being obliged to pass another night without shelter.

In ascending Jebel Assalt we soon came to the snow, which lay thicker and deeper the higher we ascended. We had, indeed, almost despaired of getting over the summit of the hill before dark, which gave rise to a warm dispute; my companion wishing to go down to the Arab tents to pass the night, and I being determined to persevere. In the midst of this hot and angry debate, and just as we were turning the angle of a rocky pass, two men on foot, who must have lain concealed waiting for our approach, sprung upon us from behind an opening, and seized the bridles of our horses. They were armed with sabres only, which they idly flourished in the air; and had their faces covered with the keffeah, or kerchief, worn beneath the turban, after the manner of the Arabs when they attack, leaving nothing but the eyes to be seen, which renders it impossible to recognize a murderer if he escapes, or trace on whose head the blood of the victim lies. With these men, as it has already been with those who had interrupted us in the valley of the Jordan, the sight of a musket was sufficient; I presented my piece cocked, and ready to discharge, when they instantly abandoned their hold, and sued for mercy. Had they been determined, they might have cut us both down from our horses before we could have been prepared for our defence, so suddenly did they spring upon us from their hiding place; but their resolution failing, they were glad to sneak off in safety; and

when they had got at some distance from us they set up a shout of defiance and triumph at their escape.

We found the summit of Jebel Assalt to be like that of Arkoob Massaloobeeah below it; a fine fertile plain, with undulations here and there, a rich green turf, abundance of wood, and pines nodding on the surrounding eminences. From hence we enjoyed a magnificent view, as beautiful in many of its features as it was grand in the whole; and extending in every direction almost as far as the range of vision.

Among other objects within sight from the summit of this mountain was a small portion of the Bahr-el-Loot, or the Sea of Loot, the name given by all the Arabs of these parts to the Dead Sea. The north-west extremity of this sea was the portion seen from hence; and the nearest part of it appeared to be distant from us about twelve or fifteen miles. The picture which the Valley of the Jordan presented to us from this spot was highly interesting. From the southern edge of the Lake of Tiberias to the mosque of Abu-el-Beady, the plain appeared to be partially cultivated on each side; and the clusters of black Arab tents seen scattered over the bare yellow patches of the uncultivated parts, formed a fine contrast to the rich green of the young corn growing all around them. To the southward of Abu-el-Beady the valley presented a white, parched, and barren aspect; while the sterility of the hills that bordered the Sea of Death, increased as the eye traced them in the distance.

We had still a slight ascent to make, and reached the extreme summit of the mountain soon after four o'clock. The cold here was excessive; and the snow, presenting one unbroken mass, was hardened into solid frost. We had no means of determining accurately the height of the mountain on which we stood; but from a rough estimate of our progressive ascent, and the extreme depth of the Jordan and the Dead Sea at our feet, as contrasted with other mountain views of which I retained a perfect recollec

tion, I should consider the height to be about 5,000 feet from the level of the ocean.

Tradition confirms the Arabs of the country in the belief, that this is the summit of Mount Nebo. On the very peak of the highest eminence stands a tomb, with other common graves around it. This is called the tomb of Nebbe Osha, or the prophet Joshua ; and the belief is general, that the successor of Moses was buried here. The humbler graves around it are said to be those of Jews who had chosen this as the place of their sepulchre. The tomb appeared to me to be a Mohammedan structure, differing little in exterior appearance from the reputed tomb of Rachel, between Jerusalem and Bethlehem; but we did not go near enough to examine it closely.

Leaving these graves on our right, we began to descend to the eastward over a terraced slope, deeply covered with snow; but neither so hardly frozen, nor its mass so unbroken as we had found it on the other side of the mountain. At five o'clock, while descending the hill, we passed a small place called Cafr-el-Yahoodi, or the village of the Jews, probably an old settlement of that people residing near the reputed tomb of their prophet Joshua; and a few minutes after passing this we came in sight of Assalt.

Approaching this town from the west, we passed through a narrow valley, terraced all around with little corn plots, and beds of vines, though the soil was now covered with snow. The most prominent object of the view was a large castle standing on the edge of a rock, which, from its steep site and elevation, as seen through a long valley, had an imposing aspect.

IT T was sunset when we entered Assalt, which lies on the eastern brow of the hill whereon the castle stands, and which is therefore not seen when approaching from the west, until the traveller turns suddenly round to the right, and finds himself among the houses. The scene was new and interesting; and the pleasure which I felt at having attained this first point in my journey, made me view every thing through the most favourable medium. The whole of the town was filled with snow, the streets being in some places almost impassable; and the terraces of the houses, which, from the steepness of the hill, rose one above the other like steps, presented a number of square and snow-white masses, like sheets exposed on the ground to dry. The inhabitants, including men,

women, and children, were clothed in sheep-skin jackets, with the skin, looking like red leather, turned outside, and the wool within; while the florid complexions and the light-brown hair of the people gave to the whole an appearance of a scene in the north of Europe, rather than one in the southern part of so hot a region as Syria, and bordering, too, upon the parched deserts of Arabia Petræa.

We were conducted to the house of one of the most wealthy inhabitants, a Christian, named Aioobe or Job, who was reputed to be one of the greatest traders in the country. Like Job of old, this man was rich in abundance of flocks and cattle, was blessed with sons and daughters, and was as renowned for his piety, as he was celebrated for his wealth.

Our reception at his house was warm and hospitable; and we were offered every accommodation that it afforded. When When supper was served up to us, almost all the heads of families in the town came to visit us, as strangers: the arrival of new persons among them exciting a sensation of curiosity which extended itself through all classes. There being no Mohammedans present, my guide and companion, Georgis, took care to inform the whole company that I was an Englishman. As to the fact of my being a Christian, he said it was difficult for him to decide, as some persons imagined the English to have no religion at all, and others contended, that though Christianity was nominally the prevailing faith of the country, it was altogether so remote from that of the Greek church, to which they belonged, that it did not deserve the name. This subject became one of lively interest to the party, and was discussed with great earnestness by most of those who were present; but having at length come to the determination that the English were neither Moslems, Jews, nor Catholics, the three great sects which they consider inimical to their own, I was received by all as a friend, and welcomed accordingly.

In the course of the evening, the conversation turned on the visits of Dr. Seetzen and Mr. Burckhardt to this town. The former