Apparel workers use a variety of tools and materials. ers in the new system, they are given added responsibilities, including correcting problems, scheduling, and monitoring standards. Not all apparel goods are mass produced, however. Some people prefer clothing made especially for them. Custom tailors make garments from start to finish by taking measurements and helping the customer select the right fabric and design. These workers are highly skilled and must be knowledgeable in all phases of clothing production. Many work in retail outlets, including laundries and drycleaning establishments, where they make alterations and adjustments to ready-to-wear clothing. Working Conditions Working conditions in apparel production vary by establishment and by occupation. Older factories tend to be congested and poorly lit and ventilated, but more modern facilities are usually better planned, have more work space, and are well-lit and ventilated. Due to the nature of the work and the machinery being used, sewing and pressing areas are usually noisy, whereas patternmaking and spreading areas are quieter. Laundries and dry-cleaning establishments are often hot and noisy; retail stores, on the other hand, tend to be relatively quiet and comfortable. Most persons in apparel occupations work a standard 5-day, 35- to 40-hour week. Some apparel manufacturers add second shifts to justify the expense of new machinery. Also, those employed in retail stores and in laundry and dry-cleaning establishments may work evenings and weekends. Apparel production work can be physically demanding. Some workers sit for long periods, and others spend many hours on their feet, leaning over tables and operating machinery. In some instances, new machinery and production techniques have decreased the physical demands upon workers. For example, newer pressing machines are now operated by foot pedals or computer controls and do not require much strength to operate. Along with new ergonomically-designed equipment, these developments have helped to reduce the significant problem of repetitive strain injuries among apparel workers. Although there are no life-threatening dangers or health hazards associated with apparel occupations, operators must be attentive while running equipment such as sewing machines, pressers, and automated cutters. A few workers wear protective devices such as gloves. In some areas of apparel production, the emphasis on individual performance is shifting to an emphasis on teamwork and cooperation. Incentive programs may also be based on a team's performance. The team or module often has managerial authority over itself, increasing the overall responsibility of each operator and allowing more interpersonal contact. Employment Apparel workers held 835,000 jobs in 1996. The following tabulation shows that about 7 out of 10 were sewing machine operators. Garment sewing machine operators... Nongarment sewing machine operators.. Custom tailors....... Pressing machine operators. Hand cutters and trimmers Patternmakers and layout workers. 453,000 130,000 87,000 78,000 46,000 14,000 14,000 13,000 Production jobs are concentrated in California, New York, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, and Georgia. Most of these jobs are in the apparel and textile industries, except for pressers and custom tailors. Although pressing operations are an integral part of the apparel production process, more than one-half of all pressers are employed in the laundry and dry-cleaning industry. In addition, more than one-half of all custom tailors work in retail clothing establishments; many others are self-employed. For both of these occupations, jobs are found in every part of the country. Training, Other Qualifications, and Advancement Training requirements vary by industry. In the apparel industry, for example, few employers require production workers to have a high school diploma or previous work experience. Nevertheless, entrants with secondary or postsecondary vocational training or previous work experience in apparel production usually have a better chance of getting a job and advancing to a supervisory position. Retailers prefer to hire custom tailors and sewers with previous experience in apparel manufacture, design, or alterations. Knowledge of fabrics, design, and construction is very important. Although laundries and dry cleaners prefer entrants with previous work experience, they routinely hire inexperienced workers. In general, apparel workers need good hand-eye coordination and the ability to perform repetitive tasks for long periods. Knowledge of fabrics and their characteristics is sometimes required. Regardless of setting, workers usually begin by performing simple tasks. As they gain experience, they are assigned more difficult operations. Further advancement is limited, however. Some production workers may become first-line supervisors, but the majority remain on the production line. Occasionally, a patternmaker may advance to designer, but usually only after additional training at a design school. Some experienced custom tailors open their own tailoring shop. Custom tailoring is a very competitive field, however, and training in small business operations can mean the difference between success and failure. Machine operators are usually trained on the job by more experienced employees or by machinery manufacturers' representatives. As machinery in the industry continues to become more complex, some apparel workers will need training in the basics of computers and electronics. In addition, the trend toward cross-training of operators will increase the time needed to learn different machines, and the rise of modular manufacturing will require workers to learn the interpersonal skills necessary to work effectively as part of a team. Job Outlook Employment of apparel workers is expected to decline through the year 2006. The job outlook of these workers depends largely on conditions in the apparel industry, where most apparel workers are employed. Increased imports, use of offshore assembly, and greater productivity through the introduction of labor-saving machinery will reduce the demand for these workers. Because of the large size of this occupation, however, many thousands of job openings will arise each year from the need to replace persons who transfer to other occupations, retire, or leave the occupation for other reasons. Employment in the domestic apparel industry has declined in recent years as foreign producers have gained a greater share of the U.S. market. Imports now account for roughly half of domestic apparel consumption, and this share is expected to increase as the U.S. market is opened further by the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) of the World Trade Organization (WTO). NAFTA allows apparel produced in Mexico and Canada to be imported, duty-free, to the United States. Some apparel companies are expected to move their production facilities to Mexico to reduce costs. In addition, the ATC will result in the elimination of quotas and a reduction in tariffs for many apparel products. As this agreement is phased in through the year 2005, domestic production will continue to move abroad and imports into the U.S. market will increase, causing further employment decline for apparel workers in the United States. To avoid losing more of the market, domestic manufacturers are developing the ability to take advantage of their proximity to the U.S. market by responding more quickly to changes in market demand. This is especially important in high-fashion items with rapidlychanging demand. U.S. producers are able to use computers and electronic data interchange to closely monitor the sales of the items that they produce and to respond quickly to diminishing inventories. They are, therefore, able to keep retailers stocked with the most popular items and to reduce production of apparel that is not selling well. Despite these advances in technology, it has been difficult to use automated equipment extensively in the apparel industry due to the soft properties of textile products. In addition, it is time consuming and expensive to adapt existing technology to the wide variety of items produced and the frequent style and seasonal changes. However, some of the larger firms and those that produce standardized items have automated pre-sewing functions, material handling, and some very simple sewing procedures. Technological developments, such as computer-aided marking and grading, computer-controlled cutters, semiautomatic sewing and pressing machines, and automated material handling systems, have increased output while reducing the need for some workers in larger firms. As the apparel industry continues to restructure and consolidate, more of the smaller, less efficient producers will lose market share to larger firms. Another practice that will influence employment levels is the use of offshore assembly. A provision in U.S. tariff regulations reduces tariffs on apparel imports from Caribbean nations that are assembled from pieces of fabric which were cut in the United States. This enables the most labor-intensive step in the production process-assembly to be performed at much lower wage rates. This trend is expected to continue, and will curtail job opportunities for sewing machine operators in the United States. Because many pre-sewing functions will continue to be done domestically, however, workers who perform these functions will not be as adversely affected. Custom tailors and sewers, the most skilled apparel workers, are also expected to experience declining employment. Demand for their services will continue to dampen as consumers are increasingly likely to buy new, mass-produced apparel instead of purchasing custommade apparel or having clothes altered or repaired. Earnings Earnings of apparel workers vary by industry and by occupation. Average weekly earnings of production workers in the apparel industry were $290 in 1996, compared to about $410 for production workers in all manufacturing industries. Earnings vary significantly, depending on the product being manufactured. Average weekly earnings ranged from a low of $230 in firms producing women's blouses and shirts to a high of $470 in establishments making automotive and apparel trimmings. Sewing machine operators-accounting for 7 of every 10 apparel workers-had median weekly earnings of $250 in 1996. Because many production workers in apparel manufacturing are paid according to the number of acceptable pieces they or their group produce, their total earnings depend on skill, speed, and accuracy. Benefits also vary. Large employers increasingly include child care in their benefits package. Those employed in retail trade also may receive a discount on their purchases. In addition, some of the larger manufacturers operate company stores, where employees can purchase apparel products at significant discounts. Some small firms, however, offer only limited benefits. In addition to employersponsored benefits, the principal union-the Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees (UNITE)-provides benefits to its members. Related Occupations The work of apparel workers varies from that requiring very little skill and training to that which is highly complex, requiring several years of training. Those operating machinery and equipment, such as pressing or sewing machine operators, perform duties similar to metalworking and plastics-working machine operators, textile operatives, and shoe sewing machine operators. Other workers who perform handwork are precision woodworkers, precision assemblers, upholsterers, and shoe and leather workers. Sources of Additional Information Information regarding careers in apparel is available from numerous technical institutes that have specialized textile and apparel programs. A list of these can be found in college guides. In addition, the local office of the State employment service or an apparel manufacturer can provide information on job opportunities in a specific area. For general information on the apparel industry, write to: ☛ American Apparel Manufacturers Association, 2500 Wilson Blvd., Suite 301, Arlington, VA 22201. Shoe and Leather Workers and Repairers (D.O.T. 365.361; 780.381-030; 781.381-018; 783.361-010, .381-018 through -026; 788.261-010, .381) Significant Points Workers generally learn their craft on the job; trainees become fully skilled in 6 months to 2 years. Employment is expected to decline, reflecting increases in imports, labor-saving machinery, and business costs; workers employed in the manufacture and modification of custom-made molded or orthopedic shoes may enjoy the best job prospects. Nature of the Work Creating stylish and durable leather products is the job of precision shoe and leather workers; keeping them in good condition is the work of repairers. These workers produce and repair a variety of goods ranging from therapeutic shoes to saddles and luggage. Although they produce different goods, shoe and leather workers share many tasks. For example, they must first check the texture, color, and strength of the leather. They then place a pattern of the item being produced on the leather, trace the pattern onto the leather, cut along the outline, and sew the pieces together. Other steps may vary according to the type of good being produced. Orthopedic and therapeutic shoemakers, for instance, make or modify footwear according to a doctor's prescription. These workers attach the insoles to shoe lasts (a wooden form shaped like a foot), affix the shoe uppers, and apply heels and outsoles. They shape the heels with a knife and then sand them on a buffing wheel for smoothness. Finally, they dye and polish the shoes. Custom shoe workers also may modify existing footwear for people with foot problems and special needs. This can involve preparing inserts, heel pads, and lifts from casts of customers' feet. Saddlemakers often apply leather dyes and liquid top coats to produce a gloss finish on a saddle. They may also decorate the saddle surface by hand stitching or by stamping the leather with decorative patterns and designs. Luggage makers fasten leather to a frame and attach handles and other hardware. They also cut and secure linings inside the frames and sew or stamp designs onto the luggage exterior. Shoe and leather repairers use their knowledge of leatherworking to give worn leather goods extended wearability. The most common type of shoe repair is replacing soles and heels. Repairers place the shoe on a last and remove the old sole and heel with a knife or pliers or both. They attach new soles and heels to shoes either by stitching them in place or by using cement or nails. Other leather goods, suitcases or handbags, for example, may need seams to be re-sewn or handles and linings replaced. All leather workers and repairers use handtools and machines. The most commonly used handtools are knives, hammers, awls (used to poke holes in leather to make sewing possible), and skivers (for splitting leather). Power-operated equipment includes sewing machines, heel nailing machines, sanding machines, hole punching machines, sole stitchers, and computerized machinery to analyze foot needs and conditions. Depending on the size of the factory or shop, a leather worker may perform one or more of the steps required to complete or repair a product. In smaller factories or shops, workers generally perform several tasks, while those in larger facilities tend to specialize. However, most leather workers eventually learn the different skills involved in producing leather goods as they move from one task to another. Self-employed shoe repairers and owners of custom-made shoe and leather shops have managerial responsibilities in addition to their regular duties. They must maintain good relations with their customers, make business decisions, and keep accurate records. Working Conditions Working conditions of leather workers vary according to the type of work performed, the size of the factory or business, and the practices of each shop. Workers employed in custom leather goods manufacturing establishments generally work a regular 40-hour week. Those in repair shops work nights and weekends and often work irregular hours. For those who own repair shops, long hours are common. Shoe and leather workers and repairers need to pay close attention when working with machines to avoid punctures, lacerations, and abrasions. Although there are few health hazards if precautions are followed, work areas can be noisy and odors from leather dyes and stains are often present. Employment Shoe and leather workers and repairers held about 21,000 jobs in 1996. Salaried workers held about 15,000 jobs. About half were employed in the manufacture of footwear products; one-fifth were employed in the production of leather goods such as luggage, handbags, and apparel; and another fifth worked in shoe repair and shoeshine shops. Self-employed individuals, who typically own and operate small shoe repair shops or specialty leather manufacturing firms, held about 6,000 jobs. Training, Other Qualifications, and Advancement Precision shoe and leather workers and repairers generally learn their craft on the job, either through in-house training programs or working as helpers to experienced workers. Helpers usually begin by performing simple tasks and then progress to more difficult projects like cutting or stitching leather. Trainees generally become fully skilled in 6 months to 2 years; the length of training varies according to the nature of the work and the aptitude and dedication of the individual. A limited number of schools and national shoe repair chains offer training in shoe repair and leather work. These programs may last from a few weeks to 1 year and impart basic skills including leather cutting, stitching, and dyeing. Students learn shoe construction, practice shoe repair, and study the fundamentals of running a small business. Graduates are encouraged to gain additional training by working with an experienced leather worker or repairer. Shoe repairers need to keep their skills up-to-date to work with rapidly changing footwear styles. Some repairers do this by attending trade shows and receiving training from product manufacturers. Others attend specialized training seminars and workshops in custom shoe making, shoe repair, and other leather work sponsored by national and regional associations. Pedorthists who produce or modify prescription footwear-may receive certification from the Pedorthic Footwear Association. These workers become certified after completing 120 hours of training and passing an exam. Manual dexterity and the mechanical aptitude to work with handtools and machines are important in the shoe repair and leatherworking occupations. Shoe and leather workers who produce custom goods should have artistic ability as well. These workers must have self-discipline to work alone under little supervision. In addition, leather workers and repairers who own shops must have knowledge of business practices and management, as well as a pleasant manner when dealing with customers. Many individuals who begin as workers or repairers advance to salaried supervisory and managerial positions. Some may open their own shop or business. Job Outlook Employment of shoe and leather workers is expected to decline through the year 2006, primarily because of the growing number of imported shoes and other leather goods which have displaced domestic production. In addition, inexpensive imports have made the cost of replacing shoes and leather goods cheaper or more convenient than repairing them, thus reducing the demand for shoe and leather repairers. These workers are also adversely affected by other factors, such as the rising cost of leather and higher rents in the high-traffic areas in which more shoe repairers are relocating. Moreover, shoe repair shops that offer "while-you-wait" service are investing in new machinery which is making repairers more productive and helping to reduce the demand for these workers. Some of the more expensive, fine leather products will continue to be repaired, however, and this demand will moderate the employment decline of shoe repairers. Consumers are also buying more comfort-soled leather shoes, which should increase demand for the services provided by shoe repairers. In the future, though, most job openings in this occupation will arise from the need to replace experienced workers who transfer to other occupations or leave the work force. Prospects for workers employed in the manufacture and modification of custom-made molded or orthopedic shoes are better than those for most other leather workers. This reflects rapid growth in the elderly population and an increasing emphasis on preventive foot care. The employment effects of these trends may be limited, however, since the demand for orthopedic footwear is increasingly ful filled by manufactured shoes that are modified to specification instead of completely custom made. Earnings Data on earnings of shoe and leather workers are very limited. Their earnings vary greatly depending upon the place of employment. Beginning workers often start near the minimum wage ($5.15 an hour) and can advance in just a few months. Owners of shoe repair and custom shoe manufacturing shops can earn substantially more. Related Occupations Other workers who make or repair items using handtools and machinery include dressmakers, custom tailors and sewers, designers and patternmakers, and furriers. Sources of Additional Information For information about the custom-made prescription shoe business, and about training opportunities in this field, contact: Pedorthic Footwear Association, 9861 Broken Land Pkwy., Suite 255, Columbia, MD 21046-1151. For information about opportunities in shoe repair, contact: Shoe Service Institute of America, Educational Library, 5024-R Campbell Blvd., Baltimore, MD 21236-5974. Textile Machinery Operators (List of D.O.T. codes is available on request. See page 496.) Significant Points Night and weekend shifts are common, as many textile and fiber mills operate 24 hours a day. Employment is expected to decline primarily due to laborsaving machinery and a less restrictive foreign trade environment. Earnings are very low. Nature of the Work Textile machinery operators tend machines that manufacture a wide range of textile products. Most people know that hosiery, towels, and socks are textiles, but many are surprised to learn that textile products are used in such things as roofs, tires, and roads. Textile machinery operators play an important part in producing all of these goods by controlling equipment that cleans, cards, combs, and draws the fiber; spins the fiber into yarn; and weaves, knits, or tufts the yarn into textile products. They are responsible for numerous machines that they start, stop, clean, and monitor for proper functioning. There are many phases in the textile production process, and operators' duties and responsibilities depend on the product and the type of machinery in use. The process begins with the preparation of synthetic or natural fibers for spinning. Fibers are cleaned and aligned through carding and combing. To prepare the fiber for the spinning process, very short fibers and any foreign matter are removed and the fibers are drawn into a substance called sliver. During this process, different types of fibers may be combined to give products the desired textures, durability, or other characteristics. This is how "50-percent cotton, 50-percent polyester" blends, for example, are created. Operators constantly monitor their machines during this stage, checking the movement of the fiber, removing and replacing cans of sliver, repairing breaks in the sliver, and making minor repairs to the machinery. The full cans of sliver are then taken to the spinning area. Spinning draws and twists the sliver to produce yarn which is then wound onto conical structures called bobbins or cones. This is an automated version of the old fashion spinning wheel. Some workers oversee machinery that makes manufactured fibers. These fibers are created from materials that, unlike cotton, wool, and flax, are not fibrous in their natural form. To make this fiber, wood pulp or chemical compounds are dissolved or melted in a liquid which is then extruded, or forced, through holes in a metal plate, called a spinneret. The sizes and shapes of the holes in the spinneret determine the shape and the uses of the fiber. Workers adjust the flow of fiber base through the spinneret, repair breaks in the fiber, and make minor adjustments to the machinery. Because this fiber is created by a chemical process, the majority of these workers are employed by chemical companies, not textile mills. When the yarn is ready, it is taken to be woven, knitted, tufted, or bonded with heat or chemicals. Each of these processes creates a different type of textile product and requires a different type of machine. Woven fabrics are made on looms that interlace the yarn. Knit products, such as socks or women's hosiery, are produced by intermeshing loops of yarn. Carpeting is made through the tufting process, in which the loops of yarn are pushed through a backing material. Although the processes are now highly automated, these concepts have been used for many centuries to produce textile products. Once the yarn has been woven, knitted, or tufted, the resulting fabric is ready to be dyed and finished either at the textile mill or at a plant specializing in textile finishing. Depending upon the end use of the yarn, it may be dyed before or after it is woven, knitted, or tufted. Some fabric is treated before it is dyed to remove other chemical additives that could affect the quality of the finished product. In addition to dyeing and printing, products are often finished by treating them to prevent excessive shrinkage, provide strength, make them stain-resistant, or give them a silky luster. In the production of hosiery and socks, for example, the stocking or sock is placed on a form and then exposed to steam and heat to give it shape. Textile machinery operators play a vital role in all of the various processes described above. In spite of the wide range of machines with which they work, machine operators share many responsibilities. Most prepare their machinery prior to a production run and help maintain the equipment by adjusting the timing on a machine, threading the harnesses that create patterns in textile goods, and repairing machinery. Each operator oversees numerous machines, performing such duties as repairing breaks in the yarn and monitoring its supply. Because more automated machinery is used in textile mills, a greater number of processes are controlled by computers, making it possible for each operator to monitor a larger area or nurber of machines. The complexity of many machines often requires operators to specialize in a particular type of machine. Working Conditions Most textile machine operators work in textile mills or chemical plants. Working conditions depend upon the age and degree of modernization of the factory. Newer facilities usually offer better ventilation and climate control that reduce potential problems caused by airborne fibers and fumes. In a few older facilities, workers in areas with high levels of these airborne materials often use protective glasses and masks that cover their nose and mouth. Although some of the newer machinery has reduced the level of noise, workers in some areas still wear ear protection. Many machines operate at high speeds, and workers must be careful not to wear clothing or jewelry that could get caught in moving parts. In addition, extruding and forming machine operators wear protective shoes and clothing when working with certain chemical compounds. Most textile machinery operators work a standard 40-hour week. Night and weekend shifts are common, as many textile and fiber mills operate 24 hours a day. However, many employers use a rotating schedule of shifts so that operators don't consistently work nights or weekends. Although workers have traditionally worked under close supervision, new management philosophies are placing an increasing emphasis on teamwork, which will allow operators greater interpersonal contact and more initiative. Employment Textile machinery operators held about 272,000 jobs in 1996. Most of these workers were employed in weaving, finishing, yarn, and thread mills. Knitting mills and manufactured fiber producers also employed a large number of these workers. Most extruding and forming machine operators were employed in chemical plants. North Carolina was the leading State in the employment of textile workers, accounting for about 30 percent of the total. Georgia and Carolina combined accounted for another 30 percent. Most of the remaining workers were employed in other southern States and in the Northeast. Training, Other Qualifications, and Advancement A high school diploma or its equivalency-while not required for all machine operating positions-is becoming more common for entrylevel positions in many mills. Some mills prefer applicants to possess a high school diploma and additional technical training. This training may be obtained, in part, at a formal training institution, such as a technical school. In addition, extensive on-the-job training may be offered by more experienced workers or representatives of machinery manufacturers. As the textile industry becomes more highly automated, some operators will need to understand complex machinery and be able to diagnose problems. Because textile machinery is increasingly controlled electronically, prospective employees will benefit from a basic knowledge of computers and electronics. Physical stamina and manual dexterity are important attributes for these jobs. In addition, self-direction and interpersonal skills are becoming more important for textile machinery operators, as organizational changes that promote teamwork and encourage fewer levels of management are leading operators to assume greater responsibility and to take more initiative. Textile machinery operators can advance in several ways. Some workers become instructors and train new employees. Others advance by taking positions requiring higher skills and greater responsibility. First-line supervisory positions usually are filled from the ranks of skilled operators. Job Outlook Employment of textile machinery operators is expected to decline over the 1996-2006 period. The most important factors influencing the employment outlook will be greater worker productivity through the introduction of labor-saving machinery and a more open trading environment. In spite of the projected decline, thousands of openings will be created annually as workers change occupations or leave the labor force. Textile firms will respond to growing competition in coming years by investing in new equipment, reorganizing their work practices, and consolidating. New machinery, such as faster air jet looms and computer-integrated manufacturing technology, will increase productivity and allow each operator to monitor a larger number of machines. Many factories are also reorganizing production floors to further increase productivity and to give workers more responsibility. In addition, textile firms are merging to benefit from economies of scale and pool their resources to invest in new equipment. Although each of the above practices should make the textile industry more competitive, they are likely to adversely affect the outlook for many machine operators. Another major uncertainty for textile workers is the future of trade. Recent trade initiatives, like the North American Free Trade Agreement and the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing of the World Trade Organization, will help to open export markets for textiles produced in the United States. At the same time, they will dismantle much of the protection that has been provided to the industry for decades. While the textile industry is highly efficient and will be able to compete in many product lines, the labor-intensive U.S. apparel industry will be more adversely affected by these trade initiatives. This, in turn, will negatively affect the demand for textile machinery operators because the apparel industry is the largest consumer of American-made textiles. Because the textile industry is highly automated, persons with technical skills and some computer training will have the best opportunities. Textile machinery operators who are expected to fare the best are bleaching and dyeing machine operators and extruding machine operators who produce synthetic fibers. Earnings Average weekly earnings for production workers in the textile mill products industry industries were about $390 in 1996, compared to $530 for production workers in all manufacturing industries and $410 for production workers throughout private industry. Earnings vary significantly, depending upon the type of mill, job specialty, shift, and seniority. Average weekly earnings for production workers in the chemical industry, where most extruding machine operators are found, were around $700 in 1996. In addition to typical benefits, some firms provide on-site daycare facilities and offer employees discounts in company-owned outlet stores. Related Occupations Metalworking and plastics-working machine operators perform similar duties and have many of the same entry and training requirements as extruding and forming machine operators and tenders, textile machine operators and tenders, and textile bleaching and dyeing machine operators. Setters and setup operators in other industries— metal fabrication and plastics manufacturing, for example-perform duties comparable to those of textile machine setters and setup op erators. |