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the other side. Mr. Buck leaped into the air and came down, all fours doubling under him, got up and ran about forty yards and sank to the ground. He tried to get up, but lacked the strength.

I have shot them with the .38-55 and 40-80, the ball taking about the same course and had to chase them half a day before I got near enough to bleed them. Two friends of mine used .32 Special rifles this fall on moose in the Lake St. Johns and Logany River districts. The two fine bull moose heads they brought home with them spoke well for the Winchester rifles and Winchester ammunition used in the chase. The .32 U. S. model 1894 is the sportsman's ideal arm, and for weight, balance, beauty of outline, accuracy and killing power, it is in a class by itself, and yet to be improved on, with a velocity of 2,112 feet per second in a 170grain, flat-nosed, soft-point bullet, something has got to give way when it reaches its destination. Loaded with black powder and a lead bullet 165 grs. it makes a true .32-.40 an accurate and powerful black powder cartridge.

There is abundance of small game in this province, such as partridge, rabbit, woodcock, squirrel, etc., fox, coon and mink by the thousands; also a number of lynx, bob-cat, otter and sable. The country is very hilly, in fact, mountainous, if it can be called such, well wooded with maple, beech, ash, birch, pine, hemlock, cedar and spruce. With its deep valleys, countless streams and lakes its scenery is surpassed by none this side of the Rockies. Any brother sportsman coming to hunt in this province next season will make no mistake in outfitting himself with a .32 W. S. Winchester rifle, an Eastman kodak and fieldglasses, and after a two-weeks' camp in the Canadian wilderness if he hasn't filled his game-bag and exposed all the films or plates he had with him and has made no use of his field-glasses I'll never again claim for myself the name of sportsman. With wishes of success for RECREATION and all its readers, I remain,

A Brother Sportsman


I notice what Mr. John Rowley says in September number of RECREATION about the belt pistol, and what he says is about right. I went West in '83. I had a Smith & Wesson S. A. 32, 4-inch barrel. I thought that was the thing. I will never forget the laugh the boys set up when I showed it to them. "What in h do you suppose you can do with that thing? Down here, when we shoot a man, if we have to shoot, we want to hurt him, not scare him. If you don't he is going to hurt you."

Take it all through the West and Southwest and Mexico-what do the sheriffs carry? The S. A. Colt 45. Quick enough? Well, I reckon. Many of the Southwest "bad men" had no sights on their "guns," and filed the notches out of the tumbler so they would not stand cocked-just "fanned the hammer" with their thumb. Ben Thompson, of San Antonio, Tex., and the Earp brothers, of New Mexico, had their "cutters" fixed that


But some can never learn to be a snapshot or a good wing shot with a shotgun. It is a "trick" that comes naturally and can not be learned by many. The finger and the eye must work together.

And the "flap holster"-that is all right in its way, but if you want to "pull a gun quick" how then? I once saw a duel in Mexiconot a previous fixed affair, but the outcome of a quarrel, and in the time that was consumed in getting the flaps of their pistol scabbards unbuttoned a "cow puncher" could have killed them both. As it was, one got a death wound and the other was not hit.

Both had .38 Smith & Wesson pistols, D. A. The Bisley model revolver, as Mr. Rowley says, never was a favorite in the West. The steep in-curl of the handle does not fit the hand (at least not easily), so as to roll the thumb over the hammer. The idea of the "Bisley" no doubt was to check the recoil. But if one wants to overcome that let them try the .38 W. C. F. and the .41 Colts inside lubricator made on the .45 frame. This gives a heavier pistol with greater accuracy. But never put too much dependence on a D. A. revolver-the best of them will hang.

D. F. Crowell, Boston, Mass.

Mr. John N. Olson, of Butte, Mont., sends us a description of a new rifle sight that he thinks is bound to win. The invention consists of a high foresight with notches or steps for the different ranges. The foresight is aligned under the object to be hit, and for each one hundred yards of range one step is seen above the notch of the rear sight.

He claims that gives good results up to five hundred yards.

We have not had an opportunity of using this sight, but it appears to us that its main drawback is likely to be found in the height that it will be necessary to give both the rear and the foresights. It is evident that with sights low down on the barrel this plan would not work, excepting on a rifle having a very high velocity and flat trajectory. The idea is, however, decidedly ingenious.


I have followed the correspondence that has been running in RECREATION for several

months, dealing with revolvers, and have been interested, and, may I add, amused thereby. To me it is perfectly plain that revolver shooters must be divided into two heaps. In the one you must put about ninetenths of the men who buy such things, and the other heap will consist of the remaining tenth who really use them. The revolver was invented as a weapon for self defense at close quarters. For this purpose you must have an extremely powerful load and the gun must be handy; but it is not necessary to have extreme accuracy.

As the frontier has receded and, in fact, mostly disappeared, a generation has grown up that needs a revolver for totally different purposes.

When a man brags about shooting a lot of grouse with a revolver I can see him in my mind's eye. He may not be a tenderfoot, but he certainly is not a frontiersman.

Now, I think we should all be tolerant with one another's little weaknesses, and I can quite understand that nine out of ten of the revolvers sold to-day will never be used on anything more deadly than a porcupine; but it seems to me that for purely target work a single shot pistol is far better. Yet, I understand that the sale of single shot pistols is a mere nothing as compared with the sale of revolvers, so it is evident that most men do not agree with me.


For the work that they use it for, I think that a .38 Special, with swing-out cylinder and single action, should be a mighty good Yet, for purely target purposes, I would prefer a Smith & Wesson .44 Russian, as the bullet cuts a bigger hole, and, for purposes of defense against a burglar or a bad man I should want a Colt single action, either .45 or .44 cal.

No, boys, pardon me if I have rubbed the hair the wrong way, for I am sure I did not intend to do anything of the sort when I started in.

Josh Bill, Chicago, Ill.


I would appreciate it very much if some of your subscribers would inform me as to a good light load for the 38 S. & W. Special. I have experimented, somewhat, and find that the full charge of brack powder and conical bullet works all right with reloaded shells, but I am unable to make a reduced load with round ball that works satisfactorily. The fault is not with the revolver, as that is in perfect condition.

Van Allen Lyman, New York.


I am very much interested in the articles on "Ideal Belt Revolvers." The .38 S. & W.

Special is one of the finest pistol cartridges on the market to-day.

I am shooting a .38 S. & W., model 1902, and I have just three objections to it. It is from four to six ounces too light, the barrel should be seven and one-half inches instead of six and one-half, and then the grip is too light and too short. I have used a revolver for fifteen years, and I am thoroughly convinced that to do good shooting it is just as necessary to have a heavy revolver as it is to have a heavy rifle for target shooting. I want to see the Colt people chamber the "New Service" double-action for this cartridge and leave the cylinder the same length and diameter as the .38-.40. We have plenty of the lighter revolvers chambered for this shell, but not one of the heavy guns in single or double action.

Then again why can't the U. M. C. or Winchester people bring out a new straight taper, or bottle-necked, shell same length as .38-.40 W. C. F., 28 or 30 grains of powder and 165-grain express, or mushroom, bullet of the .358 diameter, to be used in this same gun for heavy shooting. By having an extra cylinder you would have, practically, two guns.

We shoot two shells, one of 1,385 ft. sec. and one of 2,050 ft, sec. from the .32 Winchester special rifle, 16-inch twist. Why can't we do practically the same thing with the revolver, and thereby have a general purpose gun? C. M. Kendall, Albany, Ore.



I will tell your correspondent who has trouble with his rifle about a plan I have found effective with my .30-.40 Winchester.

I take a piece of stout muslin between one and two inches square, saturate it with 3-in-1 (or, if that is not handy, kerosene will answer about as well), lay it over the muzzle and push it through with the butt, not the slotted end, of the cleaning rod, and repeat until the cloth shows no dark stains; then wipe it in the same way with dry cloth until the pieces of cloth come out perfectly clean. The exact size of the cloth can easily be found by a little experiment, but it should be as large as can be forced through the barrel, so that it will fill the grooves and follow the twist of the rifling. Push the rod down only a few inches, then take a fresh hold and let your hands turn with it. When the barrel is dry, and you can see no spots in looking through it, put a small piece of cloth that will pass easily through the bore in the slot of the cleaning rod and lubricate the whole length of the barrel with sperm oil, or some good gun grease. This should be done as soon as possible after the day's

shooting is over; don't let the rifle remain dirty over night, for, when the bore of any firearm becomes rusty, it is very hard to get it bright again.

If you are putting the rifle away for any length of time take a look at it in a week or two and see if there are any signs of rust. Wipe it out in the same manner with clean cloths, and see if they show any rust marks, or if any spots appear in the barrel when it is dry. If not, you can feel pretty safe; give it a heavy coat of gun grease, and look at it again in a month or so, just to be certain.

If you find any spots of rust repeat the process with a little fine emery sprinkled on the oily rag, and keep that up until the barrel shines like a mirror, then wipe clean and grease as before. In this case you had better examine it three or four times at intervals of a week or so before packing it away for the season, for when rust once takes hold it doesn't let go easily.

F. W. A., Worcester, Mass.

It is a great mistake to think that the Anglo-Saxon race has a monopoly of the improvements made in firearms. The Germans are very strong competitors, and two of their rifles, the Mauser and the Mannlicher, are quite the equal of any manufactured elsewhere. We do not hear so often of French weapons, yet many of them are well made, ingenious and often extremely artistic in design. This fact has been brought home to us by the recent receipt of a very fine catalogue issued by the "Manufacture Francaise d'Armes et Cycles," of Saint Etienne.

This catalogue consists of nearly eight hundred pages and, in addition to a full description of French rifles, shot guns, pistols and cartridges, gives half-tone illustrations of French dogs, and such things as cycles, fishing tackle and fine tools.

As it is in French, it can only be understood by those acquainted with that language, but to those who know the tongue of La Belle France there is a lot of valuable information stowed away between its covers. Sometimes it does us good to find out what our neighbors are doing, as it knocks out a little of the self conceit, to which we, as a people, are especially prone.



In November RECREATION Robert McLaury, New York, asks what is the best cartridge for woodchuck. Like him, I have hunted this animal not a little. My first gun was a .303 Savage, which always killed on the spot, without my getting in holes. But, unless fired into a hillside, it always brought "cuss words" from some adjoining field, where,

after leaving the ground, it sung its tune to the dissatisfaction of some farmer. I also used the .25-.20 very successfully, but found the lead too small. I now regard the .38-.40 soft nose Winchester the best in the world for woodchuck. Hurrah for new RECREATION!

George H. Nichol, Red Oak, Iowa.



I have been much interested in reading the different opinions of those who use the revolver.

I can not agree with Mr. Rawley that the .45 calibre is the ideal revolver for this part of the country. For my use I can't get one of only one calibre suitable for all my needs.

There are times when shooting for fun my .22-calibre Smith & Wesson is just what I want. How would a .45-calibre Colt sound doing the work of a .22?

Then, for short range target, or for small game, the .32 calibre is just what I want. Ii I go up in the North Woods the .44 Russian or 38 Smith & Wesson special is what I want, for if you want one at all you want it bad, and a .22 or .32 would not be of any


I have a Smith & Wesson, Russian model with a 32-calibre 6-inch barrel; also a .44 Russian barrel and cylinder that fits the same frame. I can reload the .32 so it don't cost more than the .22 short to shoot it, and it makes a dandy gun to use around here, and when I go where there is room to use it I put the .44 barrel in, and use that which up to fifty yards is about as powerful as some rifles.

I think the .38 Smith & Wesson Special is at the top of its class as an all-around revolver, and if I couldn't have but one would have one. I should be obliged to "Kentucky" if he will send me the loads of L. & R. "Bull's-eye" powder he uses for the .44 Russian; also for the .38 S. & W. Special.

I have another revolver I think a great deal of which is an old model 6-shot .32calibre, rim-fire Smith & Wesson with a 6inch barrel. It has never been used, and is in fine condition. It will shoot, and I get a lot of fun with it when I don't want to reload shells.

C. A. Thomas, Athol, Mass.



I would like to hear from readers of your magazine their ideas as to the best type of gun for duck shooting, with details as to gauge, length of barrels, weight and loads.

"Black Duck."



I am greatly pleased with RECREATION and think it is the greatest work of its kind ever published, and I certainly enjoy the gun end of it.

In the November issue I notice that Robert MacLaury, of Brooklyn, N. Y., has had the same trouble that I had with woodchuck; but I have settled my trouble to my complete satisfaction through a 30-30 Marlin rifle. It gets there, and I get the chuck, if I shoot straight; and I don't change the sight for anything up to 250 yards.

I can get woodchuck up to 300 yards with my Marlin without raising the sight, by aiming high.

R. MacL. wants to know about the .25-.35. Well, they are nice guns, but I have known four of them and they all had a little trick all of their own which is not desirable. I suppose this is too late for the December issue.

C. Pinkerton, Dixon, Ill.


Which do you think would be the best and most practical for hunting small game and for target work?

I. A Winchester automatic or a Winchester 1890 model, using the .22 Winchester shell, both to be fitted with a Stevens telescope.

2. What power telescope would you advise for these rifles?

3. Which is the strongest 'ctg', the .22 Winchester or .22 automatic?

4. Is it a very good idea to have a telescope fitted to the side of a rifle so the regular sights can be used? Or would it be better to have it mounted on top?

Thanking you for any advice you may be kind enough to give.

J. Frank Jones, Bethany, W. Va.

1. Each rifle is so good that it is merely a matter of taste.

2. We should choose a telescope having a power of about 4'.

3. The two cartridges are identical in strength, trajectory and penetration.

4. In a single-shot rifle we should put the telescope on top of the barrel, and in the

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Well, boys, we have now furnished you with a constitution for The Sons of Daniel Boone, gotten up in the best style of the printer's art and printed on the most expensive paper. We have told you how to make a hunting shirt and how to make moccasins so that the different forts could wear distinctive uniforms, and we are receiving by each mail letters from the boys telling how much they like their constitution, which having been duly signed by your Founder, is not only a constitution for the club, but also a charter. At last you are full-fledged


Such being the case, during this cold weather you will probably want to try some camping back-woods, out-of-door hunting or pioneer work.


I have had complaints from the boys on the coast to the effect that they do not have any woods handy in which to camp and build log houses, but are confined to such sport as they can find on the shores of the salt waters, and some of them asked me if I could tell them how to make a Long Island clam roast. In answer to this I will say that they must first hunt up an iron hoop such as are used on barrels and casks and place this hoop on the ground, preferably over a flat stone or a smooth, sandy spot. Then take a peck of fresh, hard clams and put them with their "noses" down. You are to understand from this that "noses," as here used, means the part of the clam which opens. Cover the clams with some shavings and on top put small kindling or brush wood, strike a match and light the fire. After the wood has been consumed replenish the top wood once or twice until, when the fire dies down, it leaves an abundant bed of hot embers.

It is not so much the fire as the embers which cook the clams. When the "noses" begin to open take two sticks or iron tongs and pick them up one at a time and put them in a tin pan. Then sit down with the pan between your knees and some pepper and salt and butter, push the shells wide open and take a hot, deep shell and drop your chunk of butter in where it will sizzle and melt, put your salt and pepper on the butter, then pick the hot, fat clams one by one from the shells, dip them in the butter, eat them

and enjoy yourself-for this is a Long Island Clam Roast.


But for you boys who are not on the coast and want to build a campfire and cook something to eat out of doors, take two green logs and place them alongside of each other, and let them be about seven inches apart at one end and only three inches at the opposite end.


If the tops of these logs have been flattened before being placed in this position, kettles, pots and pans will sit firmly over a fire built between. Drive a forked stick in the ground at each end of this backwoods stove and rest another stick for a crane in these forks. From this you can hang other cooking utensils to keep warm.

If you have any heavy cooking utensils,


should be about three inches in diameter, good and strong. Build your fire of small wood and bark and keep it going until the space between the logs is all glowing embers. Then put your frying pan over the embers and in it place the dismembered body of a rabbit or other game which you may have, or, failing in this, such material as your mother will spare you from her larder or you can buy at the butcher shop. Have some thin slices of bacon frizzling in another pan, with which to flavor your meat, and be sure that when you pour the bacon and gravy over your meat it is real hot. Then fry your meat until it is done to the taste and it may be removed and eaten. Far better than a modern frying pan is one of those old-fashioned iron ones called a spider; the thicker the iron of the spider and the hotter you get it. before putting in the meat, the better the results. Put in chunks of meat and let them sizzle and smoke until they are black on one side, then turn them and cook the other side.


Or get your mother, the housekeeper or the cook to give you all the discarded parts, such as the neck, drumsticks and wings of any domestic fowl which they may be about to cook, and put this with the chunk of pork and any sort of vegetables that you can secure into the kettle over the coals and let it

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