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by 700 per cent. This has been brought about by changed political, commercial, educational and social conditions. Figures for 1917 are not at hand, but the total trade of the island for 1916 amounted to $105,682,729, as against $83,241,751 for 1915. Due to an augmented sugar production there were proportionate increases in the last year.

Nine-tenths of all the outside trade is with the United States. Porto Rico is buying goods from us at the rate of three-quarters of a million dollars' worth every week. Its trade is worth more to the United States than that of many foreign countries and the market is as close to New York as Topeka, Kansas.

Surprising things transpired in the West Indies as the result of our "late unpleasantness" with the Spanish mother country. A war which began through an internal explosion on board an American man-of-war, but was waged briefly for the purpose of affording police protection to the oppressed people of Cuba, resulted when peace came within a few months in the sudden acquisition by the United States of one of the fairest and richest bits of territory in the Caribbean as indemnity for our incursion.

Spain, with mixed feelings, handed over to us her beautiful colony, "Puerto Rico," known prettily to the Spaniards as "The Pearl of

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General view of Guanica Centrale, the largest sugar mill in the world in point of capacity, grinding 5,000 tons of sugar cane a day under a pressure of 5,000 lbs. to the square inch. Buildings are of steel construction on concrete foundations. Located at Ensenada on southwest coast of Porto Rico, on Deepwater Bay, in which American troops landed in 1898. Homes and clubhouses of American executives are to be seen in background. Thirty thousand persons are dependent directly and indirectly upon this mill for a livelihood. There are about sixty important sugar centrals in the island.

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Photo by Moscioni, San Juan

The Carolina of the New York and Porto Rico Steamship Company at the company's main pier in San Juan. The pier is located only a square distant from the splendid new Federal Building and Custom House erected by the United States Government at this port. A walk of five minutes takes a steamer passenger to the Plaza Central of the city and to hotels and the shopping district. Trolley cars and the railway station are also adjacent.

the Antilles." Its name, meaning "Rich Port," and formerly the appellation of the insular capital and principal seaport, was converted without rhyme or reason into "Porto Rico" by the Americans, although there is no such word in Spanish or English as "Porto." The inhabitants rejoiced at the change of sovereignty and met the American sailors and soldiers that landed with open arms and a warm welcome.

Spain, which had always found "Puerto Rico" a liability, rather than an asset, in an economic sense, and which had paid political debts at home by appointments in the colonial administration, squandering millions of gold in maintenance and fortifications, nevertheless took pride in its charming possessions; hence it was with mingled feelings of relief and regret that the territory was conceded to the United States in the settlement of the war.

The inhabitants were ripe for the transfer of political allegiance. Like the folk of Cuba, they, too, had endured a species of Weylerism and injustices such as had been, not infrequently, a part of Spanish colonial rule. Progress and enlightenment, if not actually denied them, had not been at their disposal under their dependent relationship. Educational and cultural facilities were virtually nil. Labor bore a heavy yoke. Tribute was exacted on all business, regardless of its nature. Influence at the seat of government was a matter of birth, wealth and social standing. The church was mingled with state, with results that ensued in lack of intellectual, if not bodily freedom.

The coming of democratic institutions into Porto Rico changed all these conditions. The island began to find itself almost as though it were a separate nation, which practically it was, so isolated was it from its new political mother, and so unknown to all except a few thousand citizens of the United States. But communication and intercourse of a social and business nature, formerly held mainly with Spain, became diverted to the United States, and the island began to pick up the currents of American life.

Before the American occupation, members of a Porto Rican's family wept over him at the pier when he essayed a voyage to the wilds of darkest North America, much as though he

were destined to a polar relief expedition. Nowadays Porto Rican business men commute back and forth from San Juan to New York, and their goings and comings are scarcely more noted by their families and associates in trade than if they were travelling by rail or automobile in the island. Once a year usually the entire prosperous Porto Rican family visits Broadway and Fifth Avenue to shop and admire, and goes home with a glowing story of the fine time enjoyed by all in "the States."

The import duties collected by the United States customs service in Porto Rico, less cost of collection, are turned over to the treasurer of Porto Rico for the benefit of the people. Some years these duties have amounted to $1,000,000, but they have now become greatly lessened because of the falling off of importations from Europe since the beginning of the

war.

On the other hand the United States maintains at Federal expense the Porto Rico regiment, the United States public health and quarantine establishment, the light house establishment, the Coast Guard service, the immigration service, and the Department of Agriculture's experimental station with its branches. The island also has the benefit of the Morril Educational Bequest. In fact, Porto Rico enjoys more advantages and privileges under the Government of the United States than any State in the Union. The exemption from taxation by the Federal Government keeps down the rate. of taxation on property in the island and places Porto Rico in a position to advance more rapidly than she otherwise would.

Meantime Porto Rico has expanded enormously in its production and resultant export commerce since the rule of the United States began. The commerce of the island has increased in the last sixteen years from about $16,000,000 to in excess of $110,000,000 a year, with a balance of trade in favor of the island of about $30,000,000, according to late calculations. The 1916 sugar crop alone amounted to $46,000,000, and for 1917 was more than $50,000,000. Unless unforeseen circumstances intervene the 1918 crop, the last of which will have been converted into sugar in June, should show another considerable in

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A Cadillac automobile converted into an inspection car and used on lines of the American Railroad of Porto Rico. The bridge shown spans a chasm 165 feet deep, at the bottom of which once coursed a river from which Columbus obtained fresh water on his second voyage in 1493. In the car (front seat) are Francis Judson Tietsort, author of the accompanying article, and E. M. Newman, of "NewTraveltalks" fame, who has been lecturing during the last winter on Porto Rico. Mr. Newman made moving pictures of the interior of Guanica Centrale, showing the ponderous sugar mills at work.

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crease. Eleven per cent of all the sugar consumed in the United States comes from Porto Rico. The apparent prosperity of Porto Rico in figures, however, should be accepted with reserve, as it is due largely to the sugar industry, which does not yield to the island the proportion of wealth that might be expected. A large proportion of non-resident capital is invested, and while the sugar industry under present conditions pays heavy dividends, a considerable share of these earnings is sent to stockholders in the United States and other countries. The condition of the sugar laborer has not greatly improved.

The condition of the working classes as a whole, however, is gradually improving, because of wider opportunities and higher wages.

The Porto Rican American Tobacco Company, controlled by the American Tobacco Company, finds it almost impossible to obtain. an adequate supply of skilled labor. The old palm leaf and grass huts of the laborer are giving place to cottages of wood and concrete in which the artisan or farmer lives more cleanly and more comfortably than he did formerly. His children now go to school, and are able to read and write, which changes his point of view and objects in life.

Thousands of automobiles and motor trucks on the wonderful road system of 1,200 miles of stone, dustless highways have made intercommunication and transportation a new convenience. The rapidly improving steam railroad system, which before long will be from

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Schooners unloading Southern pine lumber from Gulf ports at deep water piers, San Juan. The building in the center background is a large cigar factory, where the best-selling brand of cigars in America is made. At the upper left of the picture is the ancient fortress of San Cristobal, the walls of which are thirty feet of solid masonry.

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