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streets, which yet seem narrow because of the great height of the buildings; in its capacious and massive docks; in its wonderful facilities for rapid transit ; in its great museums, galleries, and science gardens; in the uniform courtesy of its city servants, as the police, the omnibus drivers and conductors; in the winter season, for its dense, hazy, semi-opaque, gas enshrouding fogs; and in its numerous parks, which are so many actual rural retreats with all of the retirement, restfulness and quiet, even in the very midst of the din of the great eity, and where the people can walk and lie upon the grass, if they desire, without being disturbed by the police.

Rome, the greatest museum of the world, today is great in her ruins of Imperial Rome, lying half buried amid heaps of rubbish and clambering vines, or, exhumed, speaking of former ease and luxury; in her great squares, with their columns, and surrounded with lofty buildings; in her triumphal arches and ever-flowing fountains ; in her churches and basilicas, with their cloisters, the crescent-shaped colonnades inclosing the wide-spreading piazza of St. Peter's, with its obelisk and spraying fountains in the centre, and the imposing dome rising over all; in her villas, with their gardens, and groves of Italian pine, with its broad-spreading top, the dark cypress and the ilex; in her palaces, with their immense courts encompassed by high walls; in her Colosseum, catacombs, and ruined aqueducts; in her Vatican, the treasure-house of the masterpieces of Raphael and Angelo.

XVI. Traveling in Cities.

It should always be the tourist's first business, on visiting a city, to provide himself with good local maps; those which are cheap and convenient to carry are easily obtained. By diligent inquiry of the guidebook and of other available sources of information, and in connection with the map and pocket-compass, determine in which portion of the town the points of interest are situated; then study well the routes of public travel leading to them. The managers of the hotels and the city police are valuable aids in this work

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If the places sought can be readily reached by the regular lines of street cars, or tramways as they are called in Europe, or by the omnibus lines, these are the best means for traveling distances at a small cost. The omnibuses and trams are double-decked," that is, they have seats on the top in addition to the inside seats. In Berlin and Paris, as well as in some other of the Continental cities, perhaps quite generally, the ordinary omnibus lines have regular stations along the route at which stops are made for the accommodation of passengers. The theory of the enterprise appears to be the convenience of the company rather than that of the pubiic, and it is exceedingly annoying to one who is accustomed to the American and English system of accommodation. If a tourist wishes an omnibus he must walk to one of the stations, which are small offices near the sidewalks and at some distance apart. He then, especially in Paris, will be

furnished with a small circular card-disc having a number upon it. When the omnibus comes up, an officer allows the passengers to go on board in the order of their numbers, and when the legal quota of passengers has entered, no more are received and the coach is ordered to proceed. The tourist, in securing his admission number, should understand that the color of the card determines whether he is entitled to an inside or an outside seat. A person can sometimes run his own risk to get upon the omnibus between stations, if there be room for him, and do the same about getting off, although occasionally the omnibus will stop between stations to allow ladies to descend. The fares are collected of the passengers on board the omnibus. The upper, or outside seats are the better for sighseeing, and are also the cheaper. In some of the Continental cities ladies are not allowed to ride upon the upper-deck; in London they often ride on the front deck-seat with the driver. Some of these omnibuses contain very characteristic notices. In one in London I saw these : "NOTICE!—Neither dogs nor bundles of unwashed linen must be allowed inside the company's omnibuses.' "To carry 26 passengers; 12 inside, 14 outside." "To prevent overcharge please pay your fare before you arrive at your destination, and see the amount duly registered in the waybill on the door," where the bill was affixed. At Venice the gondolas, with one boatman, cost one líra, ten pence, for the first hour, and fifty cents (Italian) for each successive hour. Omnibus gondolas, for one seat to any part of the city along the route, twenty-five cents. At the railway stations, the gondolas, one boatman, two francs; two boatmen, three francs, and the boatmen load

the luggage and deliver it at the door of the apartments in the hotel.

Of all European cities for perfection of intercommunication and cheapness of rates, commend me to London. The omnibus drivers and conductors are very obliging in stopping for passengers; they are careful in aiding a stranger to his desired routes, always taking great pains not to mislead him for the purpose of securing his fare.

The Metropolitan, sometimes, but erroneously, called the "Underground Railway,"-for it passes only occasionally underground-has stations at easy intervals, and is a great aid to travel in London. This railway is the same as the ordinary train service, in fact is a part of it, only it runs under buildings, under streets, on the level, over streets, over house-tops, even over bridges, under bridges, upon embankments, everywhere. The rates are low; the carriages are lighted with gas which is contained in pipes in and about the carriages, and introduced at given stations.

Cabs and hacks and hansoms, in London, are conveniently found in all the business portions of the city. It is worth the tourist's while to study thoroughly the matter of cab-fares in Europe, for although they are all regulated by law, the drivers do not hesitate to demand extortionate prices from strangers. In Glasgow and Edinburgh, a copy of "Murray's Time Tables," containing the legal rates for given distances can be purchased for a mere trifle, and it will be found to aid very materially in saving from the overcharging of the hackmen. The police, whenever asked, assist in regard to proper charges, and in French cities there are sometimes officers stationed at the cab-stands who

help persons in securing cabs, and give information as to the amount to be paid for the course or by the hour. Also, the drivers are obliged to give to the passenger, upon his request, the printed rates for his inspection. The night rates are higher than the day rates.

Whenever the rates are familiar to the tourist, he should not ask the driver the price, but get into the cab, give his directions, and when the ride is ended hand the exact change, for drivers, porters and guides, are very generally a changeless, as well as a merciless people. On the Continent a few "centimes," or "pfennigs" should be added to the legal fare as a "pour boire," which, were it in England, would be the driver's "'alf and 'alf." By paying this pour boire without the asking for it the traveler will show himself familiar with the customs of the country, and thereby be saved much occasional annoy

ance.

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The cab-drivers have their peculiar outfit of hat and boots, and coat, and quaint gear generally; they drive much less rapidly when hired by the hour than when by the course; they have great skill in slowing their horses by physical activities which we are accustomed to regard as quickening to horse flesh. They have their signs for "Do you wish a cab, Sir?" At Berne a cabby lifts his hat clear from his head with his right hand; in Berlin he touches his hat with the forefinger of his right hand; in London he points to his hat, or simply raises his hand. They drive poor horses, which are more distinguished for the prominence of their skeletons than for their rate of speed-except in London.

When the tourist is limited in his time for visiting a strange town, it will be an advantage

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