Sumner partook of a hasty meal, and proceeded to the | wart geographers, as Strabo, and Ptolemy, and Mela, house. The measure was introduced in a dry, heavy, but of the delicate details of topography they were but clever manner, by the member to whom it was ignorant and unconscious: they give us the broad outentrusted. The ministerial side of the House sup-line, but not the minute finish; and it requires even ported it. The Whigs opposed it, but without any now the life labour of a Niebuhr or a St. John, to effect beyond that resulting from their own numerical prove to us exactly how and where the Greeks or strength. They seemed to have little cause for oppo- Romans lived. To descend to present times, how sition, except that it was not introduced by one of slightly can the continent venture to compete with us their own party. Mr. D'Aaroni hacked it and hewed in local histories! Guide books, indeed, abound, puffing it to pieces in a speech which, filled with imagination, forth the native marvels and principal hotels of every great historical learning, and biting sarcasm and town and village; but even these, meagre and unauraillery, seemed throughout to be trembling on the thentic as they are, careless of the past, exaggerating verge of a principle, but never more! Mr. Browne too the present, and of so ephemeral a nature as not even made a speech in opposition, which only evinced of to expect a future, come to meet the demand of how much the orator was capable. strangers, not the requirement of children of the soil. Nay, upon our own shores, Wales and Ireland, and, but for a few names, patriotic Scotland also, are sadly behind their sister' England in this species of selfknowledge, this county-curiosity, this local lore. Aubrey, Leland, and Salmon, Lambard, Camden, and Dugdale, Hunter, Hoare, and Whitaker, Gough and Surtees, Baker and Ormerod, the veteran Britton, and, not least in merit, though last in order, Edward Brayley, our author of to-day,-where in any nation The Under-secretary then caught the Speaker's eye. Mr. Perigord, strange to say, had never been tormented with a doubt as to the bearing of his brother-in-law's speech. He had well schooled a large enough number of members to ensure him a hearing; and his utter discomfiture and astonishment when he heard him announce, at an early part of the speech, that he intended to oppose the bill he was expected to support, may be more easily imagined than described. The following opinion of Sumner's speech is ex-under heaven shall we look for names to equal these tracted from that number of the Morning Post newspaper which appeared on the day after it had been delivered: in the scientific labours of topography? And these are but a part, for we are rich; or we might well swell our honourable list by the addition of Stukely and Grose, Warton and White, Raine, Pennant, and Gage, and Carew, and Plott, and forty others. In truth, topography is quite an Englishman's theme; practically so, as the matter of fact both is and has been; and theoretically so, as to previous probability, in consequence of our ancient liberties, our innate love of home, our taste for the minuter things of comfort, and our liking for the details of biography. Patriotism and love of place are co-relatives. We are not " This may be pronounced the finest maiden speech (and we have our doubts whether we may not leave out the qualifying adjective,) that was ever pronounced within the walls of parliament. The youthful orator began with so simple, manly, and ingenuous an exordium, as at once won him the attention of the house. When he announced his intention of opposing the Education Bill, which is known to have been prepared under the auspices of the first minister of the crown, who, besides being his patron, is the honourable mem-announcing a stale political truism; we hint not at ber's relative, considerable astonishment was mani- such obvious assertions as, that hustings patriotism fested in all parts of the house, but especially on the has an intimacy and nearness with parliamentary place, treasury bench. It occasioned him at first some inter- nor that a demagogue is easily silenced by a slice of ruption: but a genuine and unreserved offer of entire power: but we are now intending that better and submission to the will of the house, as to his proceed-more English country's love, which is the full and ing with his speech or sitting down, drew down such shouts of applause from all sides, except from the members immediately surrounding the Premier, who appeared anxious to effect a contrary course, as encouraged him to proceed. The full report will be found in another part of our columns." Reviews. SURREY.1 BY MARTIN F. TUPPER, comprehensive growth of such humbler germs as these; partiality for one's own parish, enjoyment of one's own garden, and peacefulness at one's own fireside. Our present thoughts regard the mountaincer's affection for his cottage, and the schoolboy's love of home; and haste with cheerful feet to tread "fresh fields, and pastures new." Fatherland is full of pleasant places: not an inch of his broad leagues goes unbeloved; not a field, but it is well cropped with the yearnings of his local children. The man who loves no one definite place more than another, is a miserable, unvirtuous, unduteous creature; a tree with its taproot broken; a transplantTOPOGRAPHY is a field of literature almost excluable, vagrant, unprincipled existence, having no proper sively English. The ancients had, indeed, their stal AUTHOR OF PROVERBIAL PHILOSOPHY," &c. (1) This interesting account of Surrey, the Londoner's Holiday County, was originally intended for publication in another form, but being considered by the Editor to be peculiarly adapted for SHARPE'S MAGAZINE, the Author has kindly allowed him to anchorage or neighbourhood whereupon to stay his make use of it. Though in most respects an independent Essay, it wears the shape of a review: the "peg" being BRAYLEY'S HISTORY OF SURREY. heart or recreate his mind. He is a star eccentrical, Mr. Britton, in an Essay on Topography, forewarns a ship rudderless, a spirit unemployed,- -a man without us how unreasonable it would be to expect "pera home. It may sound verily more liberal and majestic fection in so arduous, delicate, laborious, and to be in theory a denizen alike of all lands, a citizen complicated a task as the complete history of a of the world, feeling everywhere among brothers and county:" he tells us that "it demands such an at home; but attempt this practically, and your mag-amount of personal toil and perseverance, such a nificent idea shrinks and shrivels into the meanest of variety of human knowledge, such a discreet and realities: no universal charity flowing forth on all it fastidious judgment, and such a quality of good taste, meets, but selfish and isolated travel, wasting its that it is not surprising it should never have been soured sympathies on ostlers and douaniers; no broad-accomplished. Many have undertaken, and some have cast use of the ten talents, but in every place by turns a miserly hiding of the one; if indeed that one, instead of dissipating, survive to be found, after all, hidden in the napkin. Your hot philanthropist, thrown upon the scum and surface of society, gradually cools down to a misanthropic death; whereas a local habitation for usefulness and virtue would speedily have collected round his dwelling all the charities of home, and fostered in his own calm heart the ripening seeds of immortality. written and published respectable topographical works; but he for his part cannot name one that may be correctly called a complete county history." Again, Mr. Gough somewhat severely avows that "incorrect pedigrees, futile etymologies, verbose disquisitions, crowds of epitaphs, lists of landowners, and such farrago, thrown together without method, unanimated by reflections, and delivered in the most uncouth and horrid style, make the bulk of our county histories. Such works bring the study of antiquities into disgrace with the generality, and disgust the most candid curiosity." Our application of these verdicts is as follows: the first shall not only serve as our own excuse, it being manifestly impossible for us to exhaust so full a theme as Surrey within the limits of an article, but may also extenuate the evident absence of " perfection" in Mr. Brayley's volumes; whilst it gives us occasion to acknowledge his labour and perseverance and general good taste, it prepares us for the fact that a more solidified structure would have been likely to stand as the ктîμa ès deì. There must necessarily be a fragmentary character (not easy of avoidance) in perpetual quotations from the Domesday Boke, the Testa de Neville, and charters of the Bishop of Baieux: we could almost wish absolute eschewal of such antiquated points of history: it is positively no guide, and of very little interest to us now, of how many shil The love of fatherland is then but a poetical phrase for, or rather a practical phase of, what the phrenologist would call the organ of locality finely developed. Around a place,-whether sanctified by infantile memories, or schoolboy truancies, or the deeper magic of love's young dream, or those holidays from business whereon the more mature feed sweetly, or the quiet little nook into which, after all its cares, old age subsides to snatch one hour of calm,-around a place are gathered, as to their natural centre, all our tenderest associations, and most precious or most poignant thoughts. We all ought to love, and we all do love, severally, some places more than others: some have Northumbrian attachments, and some Cornish; the predilections of others centre upon Suffolk, and of many more on Surrey. But be this as it may, and wheresoever our earthly lot has fallen, we trust that to none of us can such a theme as one respecting place be profitless or dull: and albeit it come in the seem-lings value such a living was in the Conqueror's ingly untaking shape of a review of county history, we will venture to assure mankind that no one shall regret an hour spent with us in traversing and lingering on pleasant Surrey. Now, if we were about to treat of such untrodden shores as Shalaginskoi or Carpentaria, (goodly sites enough, we may presume, to those respectively who love them among Kamtschatkadales and Vandiemenites,) or if we were meditating such a trial of men's patience as the mass of county history involves, it would be in perfect rule and order to commence with so serious a piece of geographical intelligence as "Surrey is bounded" and so forth: but, seeing that we enter on this theme with home feelings as a labour of love, steeping in the imperishable elixir of print the places we know, and the scenes where we have dwelt, we really must endeavour to away with dulness; boundaries, and figures, and archives, and statistics delight not all, nor us they may be useful in their season, but as now are pleasureless, and tending not enough towards profit to induce in us a change from Epicurus to the Porch. VOL. VIII. survey, how many villanes and bondmen had to till so many oxgates or carucates of land, and how many fat hogs were due from such a forest to an adjoining monastery. These obsolete details encumber history vastly more than they enrich it, and we will readily admit that Mr. Brayley's probable perception of this truth has induced him not to be quite so voluminous in such matter as his learned predecessors Bray and Manning. This brings us to the second quotation. Further than as aforesaid the text of Gough touches our author but lightly. There must necessarily occur in the full history of a county, a mass of matter interesting only to local potentates: the descent of a manor is not likely to be an exciting theme to the world at large, and the details of genealogical or antiquarian research can scarcely expect to be amusing; [all these, nevertheless, have their friends and lovers. If it is foolish to hope for an universal audience, it is cheering at all events to number the select few whom lore like this delights; and, after making such allowances, we are clear of one thing I that in lieu of "the uncouth and horrid style," we may to-day read "popular and pleasing." : If we take a Greenwood's map of Surrey, and thus get a bird's-eye view of our ample theme, we shall see at a glance how diversified and deep are its present interests, and remember in a moment how full of curious lore its past memories. Northward runs the noble Thames, from Deptford to Windsor, and half of it, the fairest half, we claim for Surrey; a vast cantle of great London is ours in Southwark and its vicinage, with their living and immortal hundred thousands. Richmond,-who has not pleasant recollections of Richmond? and Virginia water,—and is it a bathos to add Kew?—these are amongst our royalties. Where are finer panoramas to be found than those presented by the heaven-kissing hills of Leith, and Box, St. Martha's, and St. Ann's, Cooper's, and St. George's, and chiefly Richmond ? match us where you can the chestnuts, oaks, and beeches of Surrey, sylvan Evelyn's Surrey name a third county-town for beauty and cleanliness and all that makes a place pleasant, worthy to be numbered with Dorking and Guildford: are not Cowley, and Thomson, and Denham, and fine old Gower and the sweet and gentle Surrey amongst our constellated poets??—are not Chaucer's Tabard Inn, and Swift's Stella, and Scott's Waverley, and Cobbett's Rural Rides, to be chronicled amongst our literary interests? Though one of the smallest among counties, has not Surrey to boast of the first locks ever seen in this country, those of Richard Weston on the Wey? as also the first railway, that from Wandsworth to Croydon, so long the inert little seed of that vast iron net in which millions are involved for prosperity or ruin? and how many of the present railways have their tunnels and viaducts and other mighty works, wherein we have beaten Rome and equalled Egypt, claimable as of the county Surrey! What store of history is hidden in this ancient battle-field of England, from primal times, through Cæsar, Alfred, Wat Tyler, Sir Thomas Wyatt, and Cromwell, down to Lord George Gordon and our own dull days of peace; what antiquarian and architectural resources have we not to offer in our six-and-twenty ascertained Roman stations, our numerous fine old mansions, ancient churches, and ruins of the monks of former days; how much health, and wealth, and homestead happiness shines there not perennially from the face of pleasant Surrey, beaming up with gratitude to God; and though in truth we have our share of barrenness and desolation in many a broad strip of moorland, still how fair and fresh are our downs and heaths, and far-stretching lines of hill, how rich and Edenlike our valleys, how stately our ancestral woods, how trim our cottage-gardens, how fertile our soil in grain and roots, and luscious fruits, how various in all kinds of beauty and of interest is this full theme of Surrey! Verily, we have undertaken no slight task; we shall have to crave indulgence for a thousand omissions, we cannot in an hour tithe one tithe of all we wish to say; fourteen Hundreds full of classic sites and pleasant matters arise and overwhelm both space and power, claiming each for justice more than we can spare for all; nevertheless, as concisely as we may, after these few preliminary generalities, we mean to take them in their turn, promising that even as Laudabunt alii claram Rhodon, aut Mitylenem, we will do our best to praise the county Surrey. From the earliest period of written history down perhaps to this our day, Surrey has to boast of as many points of interest as any other county in the kingdom. It constituted in Roman times a principal part of Britannia Prima, was found to be occupied by a tribe of Belgic descent, called from their general superiority the Regni, and every part can show the remains of Roman occupation, as is fully evidenced by coins, pottery, and the foundations of permanent structures. Two chief military roads traversed it, and are still in part highways, the Ikenild street to the west, and the Ermine, or Stare street, eastwards. From the marks both of early British and of Roman encampments there seems to be ample proof that our ancestors did not shrink from the patriotic duty of self-defence, and from historic commentaries we know that, once conquered, they learned the timely wisdom of submission to their civilizing victors; living as peaceable tributaries, in their alliance, under Cogibundus, a native prince. When, however, in the decline of Rome, her strong men were withdrawn from the ends of the earth to help her heart in Italy, anarchy succeeded to order, and at length, after divers catastrophes consequent on intestine war, Vortigern resolved to call to his aid the Saxon pirates Hengist and Horsa to enable him to bear down all native opposition. As a matter of course, the dominion soon came into the hands of these disinterested friends; Hengist made himself king of Kent, except the Isle of Thanet, which was the humbler slice of Horsa; and another bold adventurer, Ella, seized upon the kingdom of the South Saxons, South Sax, the modern Sussex, inclusive of a large portion of Surrey. as The name Surrey signifies south of the Rhee, or river; Suderree; so Sodor and Man intends the southern provinces and Man; so also St. Mary Overree is St. Mary over the water; Rhee having to the initiated a very Grecian likeness. It is little in the nature of true knowledge to be curious about the trifles of barbaric occupation; and we may therefore overlook many ignobler names, as Adelwalch, and Ina, and Kenulph, to find Surrey in possession of Alfred the Great "Rex occidentalium Saxonum." He was crowned at Kingston, as also were most succeeding monarchs of the Anglo-Saxon dynasty. Canute the Dane is the next name of note upon the county annals, with his 340transports crowding up the trench at Southwark; and Hardicanute, the last of our Danish masters, who died of intoxication at Lambeth; next occurs Earl Godwin, as another graphic incident, with his murder of his liege prince Alfred at Guildford castle; then comes the Conquest, whereby William's half-brother Odo, the ubiquitous Baieux bishop of Domesday, became possessed of large tracts in Surrey; and afterwards the great event at Runnymeade, where the Charter of our liberties was signed; and the H Statutes of Merton; and many battles under the walls has gained a vast reputation for its underground excesses; but we are compelled to state, that, although there is some slight cause to call it subterranean, the poets have grievously exaggerated truth. Spenser tells us that "The Mole doth make His way still underground, till Thamis he o'ertake." "Underneath the earth for three miles space doth creep: The geology of the county has been ably contributed Milton calls it by Dr. Mantell at considerable length, and his re "The sullen Mole, that runneth underneath :" trospect of Geological Phenomena is well worthy of and Pope avows that he quotation. "It may be stated, not as an hypothesis, but as a legitimate deduction from the facts before us, that the portion of the earth's surface which now forms the county of Surrey, has, within the period embraced by our researches, experienced the following mutations. First, it was the delta of a vast river, that flowed through a country which enjoyed a tropical climate, and was inhabited by various reptiles, and clothed with palms and arborescent ferns. During this epoch the Wealden strata were deposited. Secondly, this delta subsided to a great depth, and was covered by an ocean, and formed the bottom of the sea for a period of sufficient duration to admit of the deposition of several thousand feet of strata, inclosing myriads of extinct species of marine fishes, shells, and corals. This era comprises the formation of the chalk. Thirdly, the bed of this ocean was broken up; and some parts were elevated above the waves, and formed groups of islands; while the depressions, or basins, were filled with the waters of a sea teeming with marine fishes and shells wholly distinct from those of the preceding ocean, and fed by streams which brought down from the land the remains of terrestrial mammalia, and of trees and plants also of extinct species and genera. These sedimentary deposits constitute the tertiary formations. Fourthly; a farther elevation of some parts of the solid strata, and the depression of other portions, took place; and the dry land was peopled by elephants, rhinoceroses, gigantic elks, and other mammalia, whose remains became embedded in the mud and gravel of the lakes and estuaries: the post tertiary deposits. Lastly, Man appeared, and took possession of the country, and such of the pachydermat as remained were either extirpated. (as the Irish elk, &c.) or reduced to a domestic state. At the present time, the metropolis of England is situated on the deposits which contain the remains of the elephant and the elk, and the accumulated spoils of the tertiary seas; the huntsman courses, and the shepherd tends his flocks, on the elevated and rounded masses of the bottom of the ancient ocean of the chalk; the farmer reaps his harvest in the weald, upon the soil of the cultivated delta of the country of the iguanodon; and the geologist gathers together from the strata, the relics of beings which have lived and died, and whose very forms are obliterated from the face of the earth, and endeavours from these natural memorials to trace the succession of the physical events which have preceded all human history and tradition." Such are our county records, as written in the soil and graven on the ribs of the earth, long before Rome or aborigines existed; and thus, from bones and shells, and other scattered medals of creation, does Geology deduce her antemundane wonders. How little heed we take of those Surrey elks and elephants!-regarding them as carelessly as our simple flocks and herds, which feed upon that ocean of the chalk. The river Mole-to take another geognostic subject "Hides his diving flood." When to these poetical licenses Camden has attached his staider prose, stating that "the inhabitants of this tract, no less than the Spaniards, may boast of a bridge that feeds several flocks of sheep," without doubt wonder-seekers will meet with little but disappointment if they raise their expectations by crediting such faithless oracles. The less ornate and unimaginative facts have been sedulously explored by Mr. Brayley. He has carefully examined and measured the frequent "swallows," or small cavernous vortices which occur in the bed of the river, and which so mysteriously cause its bulk to waste away; and he states "From calculations made on different days, after measuring the height and velocity of the current received into these pools, it was ascertained, when both were in action, that the swallows of the outer pool engulphed 72 imperial gallons per second, 4,320 per minute, and 259,200 per hour; and those of the inner pool, 23 imperial gallons per second, 1,380 per minute, and 82,800 per hour." In effect, the bed of the river is gimleted or colandered; and, possibly to feed the springs further along, the water is sucked through a rocky yet rotten stratum into some thirstier soil. The consequence is, a sluggish diminution in the Mole, until, in parts, at certain droughty seasons, its channel is nearly dry; but, as to any picturesque" diving" headlong into the bowels of the earth, or any open and avowed tendency to emulate in Plutonic shades, Lethe, Cocytus, or Avernus, let none but poets expect a wonder so ideal. Mr. Brayley's elaborate map of the Mole, wherein with great industry he has marked down every "swallow," and thus demonstrated how the waters waste away, is worthy of great praise. It appears to be the better opinion, as improved by Dr. Lingard and Sir Francis Palgrave on the surmises of monk Ingulphus and William of Malmesbury, that King Alfred did not invent hundreds and tythings, but only gave full effect to a system then some centuries old. Tacitus tells us that the ancient Germans divided their country into pagi; each pagus was required to furnish one hundred warriors; and each band so raised was named the hundred of such a pagus. The difference in population will well explain the cause for one territorial division being larger or smaller than another; and we can readily perceive how the name "hundred "would come to be transferred from the combatants to the land which bore them. It very : would seem, then, that in Anglo-Saxon times Surrey | features are briefly these :-The remains of Newark furnished a contingent of fourteen hundred men; a Abbey, now inconsiderable in their neighbourhood, considerable militia for that early period: more Sutton Place, a fine old Tudor mansion, where the by six hundred than its present muster-roll; but, in wind rustling its gilded leather tapestries, and the those times, we must recollect that every man bore peacocks screaming at early day, have affrighted our arms. Alfred built a civil superstructure on this youthful heart in years gone by: then, the high octamilitary foundation; and, by converting the centurions, gonal tower yonder was erected to guide the good king or centenarii, into hundredors, and the warriors into James across Woking Heath, to his majesty's nightly jurymen, managed to improve peace, as well as to revels with Sir Edward Zouch: soon, we come to avert war. The hundreds of Surrey are these, according Guildfordto their antique, medieval, and present appellations : MODERN MAPS. Godalming. Woking. Chertsey. Elmbridge. Reigate. Tandridge. Kingston. Brixton. Mr. Dansey justly remarks, when speaking of the origin of parishes— : "Though the earliest teachers may have congregated their auditory at crosses in the open air, it is inconceivable how Christianity could be long and extensively received among the people in such a climate as ours, without churches; ' 93 66 we may therefore," adds Mr. Brayley, "conclude that churches were erected in Britain very soon after the first preaching of the gospel here and these, in process of time, became the seats of the officiating ministers who were selected to give spiritual tuition and guidance to the inhabitants of the adjoining districts." Again-"Parishes, in most instances, having originated from the foundation and endowment of churches by the landed proprietors, or lords of manors, on whose demesnes the churches were situated, those lords obtained, in return for their liberality, the right of presenting a pastor or incumbent to the benefice: such pastor being subject to the approval of the bishop of the diocese, and amenable to his jurisdiction for institution and induction to the same. And our churches are still, in general, presentable by the legal representatives of those by whom they were originally founded, and endowed with glebe land and tythes from their own estates." Thus, then, the larger compartments and smaller subdivisions of Surrey appear to be reasonably accounted for. For what reason we are not informed, Mr. Brayley places first in order the hundred of Woking; and as we are following his track, we need not step aside to ask why the superior claims of Brixton have lost the prior place given to them by Salmon and other historians. We shall also have to supply a few antiquarian and other deficiencies. Etymologies are not always "futile ;" and we at least feel an interest in being able to interpret Woking, as Wye-oke-ing, "the ing, or meadow, full of oaks, upon the Wye." Its principal "Decent Guildford, clean and steep, Ranged around its castle keep, Relic of departed power, Grey and crumbling square old tower;" a place replete with interest, and worthy of a history itself; whether we regard it (as the fact was) as the frequent abode of royalty, from Anglo-Saxon times down to Edward VI. or call attention to the strange Norman frescoes in St. Mary's Church, and the unexplained carvings in the castle; or to Archbishop Abbot, and the famous painted windows of his hospital; or to the chalk caverns, very extensive, and probably dating from the earliest periods of human excavation, when men were troglodites: then, there are the crypts, and St. Catherine's picturesquely ruined chapel; and, not far off, Loseley Manor, a noble specimen of the home of "A fine old English gentleman, all of the olden time," whose beautiful drawing-room, with its elaborate mantel-piece and ceiling richly carved in chalk as hard as stone, and the baronial hall, and quaint pictures, and relics of Sir Thomas More, are amongst our early reminiscences: in other parts of the hundred are, the extensive family mansion of the Westons, West Horsley Place, full of ancient portraits; Clandon House, the deserted seat of the Onslows, the entrance hall whereof is a cube of forty feet; Ockham, where the church presents, amongst other interesting aspects, "a complete architectural gem," in the east window of the chancel; a remarkable and possibly unique specimen of the septuple lancet-head arrangement, which may be referred to the thirteenth or fourteenth century; where, also, the Swiss schools and Italianized mansion of Lord Lovelace interchange pleasurable contrasts; and where the somewhat musty memory of William de Occam, the invincible doctor, "the only schoolman of whom Luther had a good opinion," still survives to illustrate his native annals. And now, after making honest but melancholy mention of the liberal allowance of waste moor and desolate wild accorded to this hundred, chiefly about Ash and Pirbright, and its outlying territory of Bagshot Heath, we may take our leave of Woking. The hundred of Godley, or more popularly Chertsey, is next presented to us; and we incline, with Salmon, rather to interpret the name as 'good land," than God's land;" not but that the wise monks of Chertsey Abbey contrived to make the terms convertible. This hundred is the north-eastern extremity of the county, and includes, as 'the ing, county, and includes, as a picturesque feature, Virginia water-a name suggestive of much natural |