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FROM VENICE TO TOBLACH

BY

ALEXANDER ROBERTSON, D.D.

AUTHOR OF

"FRA PAOLO SARPI," 66 LIFE OF COUNT CAMPELLO," ETC.

WITH FORTY-TWO FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAP

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LONDON: GEORGE ALLEN

RUSKIN HOUSE, CHARING CROSS ROAD

1896

[All rights reserved]

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MY FELLOW-TRAVELLER

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W.P. Lombard

11-10-39

PREFACE

TITIAN'S custom of going in the summer-time from heated Venice to the cool Dolomite Mountains-The Scotland of Italy-that stand so invitingly within sight of the city, is one that Venetians practised long before the painter's day, and which they have kept up ever since. Our fellowcountrymen who live in Venice have not been slow in learning the same habit; whilst English and American travellers, in annually increasing numbers, are learning to prefer an invigorating drive "THROUGH THE DOLOMITES," from Venice to Toblach, to a hot, dusty, railway journey to Milan. I, myself, am responsible for sending not a few by this mountain route, for ever since I first knew the country, now some ten years ago, I have never failed to sing its praises, nor are, I think, these praises undeserved, for, whilst many have told me that they looked back on their journey through these wonderful mountains, as one of the most enjoyable parts of their Italian tour, or have said in substance, what a Scottish lady once wrote to me, "I am twenty years younger since I went to the Dolomites, and I shall go to them every year,” I have never known one who expressed a feeling of disappointment with that country, which, because of its character and that of its people, and the legendary and historic romance that surrounds them, I have called "THE SCOTLAND OF ITALY."

Many, however, have lamented the lack of a modern book giving practical information in regard to travelling in that highland region, and also dealing with it historically and descriptively, more especially with those parts of it, traversed by the great Piave and Boite Valleys, which are to-day, what they have been for centuries, the grand natural highway "Through the Dolomites."

The following pages have been written in the hope that they may supply this want. Whilst in them I treat mainly of that highway, I have not confined myself to it, but have asked the traveller to go with me up side valleys, and to make not a few excursions and climbs, so as to visit scenes of natural beauty and historic interest.

Unlike ordinary country towns and villages, those of the Dolomites are all historic places, each with its archives well stored with ancient documents-some of which date back nearly a thousand years; and it is with pleasure I acknowledge the courtesy of the authorities, and of Professor Ronzon, who gave me access to them, and put me in the way of obtaining much valuable information. I also desire to thank those who have kindly helped by illustrations to embellish the book-Mr. William Logsdail, who specially prepared the frontispiece; Mr. Henry Griffith Keasbey, for the use of his pictures of scenery around Cortina; Mr. H. Young of Asolo; and the photographers who gave me permission to reproduce their views.

It only remains for me to express the hope that my book may be found useful by those visiting the Dolomites, and be the means of leading others thither; and that it may make many feel, as I did, when wandering from place to place amongst sublime forms of natural beauty, and amongst a people who have inherited a glorious history and a glorious country, which have moulded and polished their characters, and made them what they are enthusiastic lovers of liberty, of education, and of virtue-how true Mr. Ruskin's words are, that mountains seem to have been built for the human race, as at once their schools and cathedrals; full of treasures of illuminated manuscript for the scholar, kindly in simple lessons for the worker, quiet in pale cloisters for the thinker, and glorious in holiness for the worshipper."

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ALEXANDER ROBERTSON.

VENICE, May 1896.

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