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don to Leith, the ratio would have averaged only one shilling for every twenty-one miles, or a fourth the Mediterranean tariff; while meals are half the Spanish prices. The cookery, although not the materials, appeared certainly better on board the Tajo, while wine was given gratis, both at dinner and breakfast; but being of inferior quality, could not cost much. Reasoning, therefore, upon such data, sea-voyaging in the Mediterranean is expensive, but quite as comfortable as on the coasts of Great Britain; since most of the steamers are English built, and fitted up in the same manner, even as regards the most trifling appliances, every article being the produce of British industry. Having bid adieu to the obliging captain of the excellent steamer, which had carried the writer thus far and pleasantly on his Spanish excursion, he got into a wherry, by permission of the armed sentinel placed on the gangway to prevent smuggling, and soon was landed at the custom-house pier, there to wait patiently until his luggage should be examined.

Approaching Malaga from seaboard rather impresses travellers favourably, the harbour, although not extensive, being full of vessels, comprising several steamers, and an air of activity prevailing apparently throughout. A very pretty terrace of houses in front, the huge cathedral in the background, the extensive custom-house on the right, a commanding fortress on an elevation behind, numerous elegant-looking "quintas " scattered over adjacent hills ornamented with vineyards, splendid moun tains occupying the north-western horizon, the boundless Mediterranean-then smooth like glass on the south-eastern, and a brilliant sun shining forth from a cloudless sky-all united to make the surrounding scene a most splendid panorama. Compared with Alicante, the difference was very remarkable. The latter looked barren, lifeless, and unproductive, while the former seemed altogether the reverse. Therefore, seen from outside the harbour, few prospects of equal extent or variety will be found elsewhere, which are more attractive than that of Malaga and its vicinity.

Being anxious to reach Granada without losing time uselessly, the writer engaged a place in the diligence which would depart in the evening; and as that conveyance left on alternate days, he would thus have more leisure to perambulate the celebrated capital of Andalusia. Besides, having also ascertained that a steamer was to sail from Malaga for Cadiz, about the second day after his proposed return, a better arrangement could not be made for a methodical tourist than the one he thus accomplished. After the luggage had been examined by custom-house officials, and deposited at the diligence office, it next became necessary to visit the police station near the landing-stairs, so that the writer might get possession of his passport, till then retained by the captain since leaving Barcelona; such being the rule in all Spanish steam-vessels. No fee was, however, demanded for either proceeding; and after a little delay, always consequent whenever Spaniards constitute the executive, that important document being found correct, obtained the necessary "visto." Whereupon, the owner departed on his way rejoicing.

Although pleased with the general aspect of Malaga, viewed from its roadstead and on first landing, so soon as tourists penetrate the interior they will certainly feel disappointed. With the exception of the Alameda, one or two squares, the terrace already mentioned, and a very few streets,

most of the thoroughfares are narrow, tortuous, and so confined, that to respire pure air is almost impossible. Many of the latter do not admit carriages; only donkeys, dogs, mules, and bipeds being allowed to enter. In those streets where vehicles are permitted, two cannot pass each other, unless at certain wider spots made on purpose. Otherwise, a deadlock will ensue, and even the stoppage of all passengers. Besides, as donkeys, from their smaller size in comparison with mules, constitute the chief carriers of packages, and have constantly one slung on each side, they thus almost occupy the entire breadth of a street; especially if passing along in strings of ten or twelve, which is not uncommon. But when two lines of these obstinate animals meet in a narrow thoroughfare, then ensues the tug of war. Hence, what with screaming of guides, thwacking of sticks, braying of these mercilessly punished poor brutes, and the terror of female passengers who may be near this scene of confusion, the hubbub created is almost unbearable. Nothing analogous was ever previously witnessed by the observer who now mentions what he here often noticed. Nor, could similar rencontres happen in any town of more northern Europe. They are unique. Still, these spectacles were always exceedingly amusing, although sometimes inconvenient, if not dangerous, when taken unawares; since dreaming pedestrians may be thereby knocked down, perhaps injured seriously. However, it being customary to leave the outer doors of dwelling-houses always open, during daytime, throughout the town, whereby their entrance "patios"-courts-may be used by persons thus circumstanced, such retreats become very convenient, and then serve as shelter until the way is cleared of impediments.

The Alameda, although broad, about one quarter of a mile long, and ornamented with seats, statues, as also fountains, did not seem an agreeable promenade. The trees were stunted, and burnt up from the want of moisture; while thick clouds of dust being driven about in every direction by the wind, with a scorching sun above, this public rendezvous for "Malagueñas" of an evening felt stifling at the present season, and most uncomfortable. Like the Rambla at Barcelona, it has a carriageway on each side; and the best houses being in this quarter, or the adjoining broad streets of San Fernando del Mar and Hermosa, these are considered the most fashionable residences, although the whole district is much inferior to its more northern Spanish prototype. Having been under water during former Moorish domination, and since reclaimed from the sea, this situation cannot be so salubrious as more elevated portions, although better ventilation here prevails; while on the other hand, being frequently enveloped by volumes of dust, that also must prove highly injurious. Notwithstanding the prevalence of dust in the Alameda, its adjacent streets, and near the harbour, the narrow alleys of the old portion of the city appeared pretty clean. The houses are generally low, painted or whitewashed outside; and having often balconies, or verandahs ornamented with flowers, they frequently possess a pleasing appearance. Numbers being, however, converted into magazines, it thus became rather a singular spectacle to see large Morisco-looking patios, formerly occupied by nobles-many, perhaps, Moors-now filled with orange or lemon boxes, and sometimes wine-casks, if not less important articles of commerce.

Among other localities of Malaga, tourists should visit the "Plaza de la

Constitucion." This enclosure is larger than many other similarly named squares in Spain. The houses are of varied architecture, and, on the whole, its general effect seemed pleasing; but the interior being open and without ornament, that part looked out of character. The "Plaza del Triunfo," on the other hand, has many trees, stone seats, and a pretty little promenade in its centre, ornamented with flowers, which make this place an agreeable retreat during sunshine. Here, an obelisk kind of monument has been erected to the memory of Torrijos, who was shot in December, 1831, with about fifty other persons, among whom was Mr. Boyd, as rebels, by Moreno, Ferdinand VII. being king. But matters are now quite different in Spain, where these unfortunate but cruelly butchered individuals are honoured as martyrs to liberty and true patriots. Their names, amounting to forty-three, being inscribed on the column, in order to hand them down to posterity. That is, unless some new change should restore despotism; when all may be demolished, and the memory of parties thus held up for imitation will become loaded with contempt and vituperation. But, should any such turn in the political wheel ever arise, it can only be viewed as another specimen of Cosas de España. The huge cathedral, although begun upwards of three hundred years ago, was not finished till the end of the last century. This enormous pile has really nothing but magnitude to induce strangers to visit the interior. As elsewhere, much gilding decorates its altars, while large Corinthian columns ornament the walls and chapels. But, excepting being spacious and lofty, the structure is in no way remarkable. Outwardly, there are two towers one being three hundred and fifty feet high-from whence, as at Valencia, an excellent view of Malaga, the harbour, and vicinity, may be obtained. Indeed, the rule enunciated in a former part of these notes, always to ascend the highest building in any town, to get thereby a correct panoramic notion of its various localities, must not here be forgotten; and whoever accomplishes such an undertaking will, in this instance, be amply compensated.

Being entirely a commercial city, chiefly for the export of raisins, wine, oranges, and lemons, with other produce of adjoining districts, Malaga is always a bustling place, and seemed to contain an active, industrious population. When sauntering near the harbour, the writer could not avoid being struck with seeing immense piles of raisin-boxes lying on the pier ready for embarkation; while those containing other fruits were also very numerous. At the same time, strings of loaded donkeys constantly arrived to replace those packages which had been despatched. It was hence difficult to get along, without being jostled by men or animals; so that, to the present observer, more real business appeared transacted here, than at any other port he had visited since leaving London. In various situations, numbers of women were busily engaged with packing different fruits, not only in many warehouses and patios, but even where recesses of streets afforded space for such operations. Smiths forging hoops, carpenters making boxes, and impatient donkeydrivers anxious to obtain burdens for their more patient unintellectual companions, were frequently observed during the narrator's urban perambulations. In short, most persons seemed occupied, idleness being the exception. And as the total population is reported at eighty thousand inhabitants, a correct notion may be easily formed regarding the com

mercial importance of Malaga. This port is the chief outlet of Southern Spain for native produce, and one of the few places now increasing in size or prosperity. Besides these facts, it should be further stated, its adjoining province constitutes one of the richest in the Peninsula, possesses both a fertile soil above, and productive mines below. The adjacent hills abound in marbles, and the whole district is populous. Therefore, such favourable statements can be easily accounted for and explained. The heat in summer being almost tropical, several articles are produced in this part of Spain, wholly unknown as indigenous throughout other districts of Europe. For instance, coffee and cocoa plants, the cottontree and sugar-cane thrive here; while the cochineal insect is reared in botanical gardens upon its natural food-the cactus. The production of this valuable dye-stuff, although limited in quantity, is favourable, and has been only noticed at present to show how much the climate in this region differs even with every other part of Spain; not only as to temperature and other physical properties, but in reference to various articles cultivated here, which are unknown elsewhere.

Having obtained a general idea of the busy seaport town of Malaga, the writer reserves further observations until his return from Granada, when it is proposed to make a longer sojourn, in order to obtain further information, as likewise to visit several localities which the limited time at command did not permit him then to inspect. Postponing additional remarks regarding Malaga to that period, the present tourist, at six P.M., again found himself ensconced, with five male companions, in the interior of a Spanish diligence, drawn by twelve mules, scampering along the dry bed of the river Guadalmedina-which then formed a crowded thoroughfare towards the high range of mountains all travellers must pass ere reaching their proposed destination. The road being very zigzag, from its continued ascent, progression was slow during many hours. And as the dust got even more annoying than in the forenoon, while gusts of wind often blew violently from adjacent mountain gorges, this part of the journey proved far from pleasant, notwithstanding the splendid view afforded from such varied elevations, of Malaga, the distant Mediterranean, adjoining fertile valleys dotted with quintas, vine-clad slopes, and the high Sierra Tejeda range northwards, which would soon be traversed. Towards midnight the highest summit was attained, where the wind became exceedingly strong and boisterous. It felt also excessively cold, and the road being often tortuous with very sharp turnings, besides looking precipitous if not really dangerous, while all was darkness around, the situation in which the diligence and its freight were frequently placed, could not be considered as enviable. However, this wild, mountainous highway was at last passed over, and Loja reached in safety.

LORD DUNDONALD'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY.*

THE moral of Lord Dundonald's chequered career is, according to his own showing, "that they who, in political matters, propose to themselves a strict and rigid adherence to the truth of their convictions, irrespective of personal consequences, must expect obloquy rather than reward; and that they who obstinately pursue their professional duty in the face of routine and official prejudice, may think themselves lucky if they escape persecution." Sad it is that it should be so, but so it is in all relations of life, as well as in political, military, or naval matters. The man who in this world selects for himself an independent line of thought or action, becomes the butt of all. His impulses are too often at variance with the social, religious, or political prejudices by which he is surrounded, and he must make concessions or come to a stand-still. It would be premature to discuss how much certain peculiarities of Lord Dundonald's character, love of independence, and selfwill, had to do with his misfortunes. Admitting that they had an influence, they would constitute no excuse for malignant persecution. The present volume of the noble earl's autobiography narrates his services in the British navy up to the period of the action in Aix Roads, on the 11th, 12th, and 13th of April, 1809. The result of that action, viz. the court-martial on Lord Gambier-virtually a prosecution of himself-the "plot" by which he was driven from the service, and the history of his restoration to rank and honours, are to be duly set forth in succeeding volumes.

Tradition has assigned to the Cochranes a derivation from one of the Scandinavian sea-rovers; considering that the name in the thirteenth century was De Coveran, this tradition is open to question, but as applied to some of the members of the family, it does not lose in interest from being well found, if not true. The immediate ancestors of the present earl were not a wit less eccentric than himself. His uncle, Sir Alexander Cochrane, had his name on the books of various vessels under his command at the very time that the scientific old earl, whose theory was passive obedience, was having the boy's hair cut and plastered back with a vile composition of candle-grease and flour, while his body was encased in the inflexible collar and blue tunic of his Majesty's 104th Regiment of Foot. The military service was, however, after a time abandoned, and ultimately, at the mature age for a midshipman, of seventeen years and a half, young Lord Cochrane joined the Hind at Sheerness. The Earl of Hopetown advanced 100%. for his equipment, and his father gave him a gold watch-the only patrimony, he says, he ever inherited.

On board the Hind Lord Cochrane came under the control of a Lieutenant Larmour, better known as Jack Larmour, a thorough specimen of salt water roughness efficiency, and he soon found that from boyish impressions to a midshipman's grievances is but a step:

* The Autobiography of a Seaman. By Thomas, Tenth Earl of Dundonald, G.C.B., Admiral of the Red, Rear-Admiral of the Fleet, &c. &c. Vol. I. Richard Bentley.

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