A HOLIDAY TOUR IN SPAIN.

BY A PHYSICIAN.

ALTHOUGH public attention has been much directed, particularly of late years, to the Peninsula and its people, as also to the affairs of that interesting portion of Europe, still the number of amateur tourists, who are induced to direct their steps thitherward, continue comparatively few, notwithstanding the vivid descriptions contained in Mr. Ford's wellknown Handbook for Travellers. Having long entertained an ardent desire to visit a country which contains many objects of interest, while he might derive some useful practical information respecting the inhabitants, their customs, and social position, the writer of these sketches accordingly resolved to accomplish an excursion to Spain during the autumn just terminated, and of which, in the subsequent brief notes, he proposes to give some account, trusting that readers will not deem his remarks so made unworthy of perusal, or wholly devoid of local information.

Fortified with a foreign-office passport having the necessary visas by ambassadors and consuls, London was quitted towards the end of last August, when other continental wanderers were, like the present, going out of town to enjoy their respective holidays. Disliking to waste time on seaboard, or to encounter a sickening toss in the Bay of Biscay, and perhaps to be disagreeably shaken by a stormy Atlantic, the writer resolved to pass through France both when proceeding to and returning from Spain. This determination, although a more expensive and fatiguing mode of travelling than the ordinary route of sailing from Southampton, by the regular Peninsular steam-packets, the person who now speaks has no reason to regret having adopted. Indeed, were he to proffer any advice in reference to the best mode for tourists to follow, should they ever intend visiting Spain, it would be to travel either by the Eastern or Western Pyrenees; of course returning by a different route from that which formed their entrance. In this way new scenes, varied companions, and a constantly changing panorama, will always present themselves to the visitant's observation; whereas, if on board even a comfortable steamer, its monotony often becomes tiresome, notwithstanding the weather may prove fine; whilst, if otherwise, there can seldom exist any mistake, which is the most satisfactory manner to accomplish any journey undertaken solely for pleasure or relaxation.

Influenced by these considerations, the present writer left London for Paris by the ordinary route, landing at Boulogne. From the French capital he travelled through Auvergne by rail as far as Brioude, where that line of road terminates. A diligence conveyed him from thence to Aurillac, the chief town of Cantal, often celebrated for its cattle, mules, and cheese. This route he thought one of the prettiest in France. It is very variegated, passes along vales, which are often very beautiful, or over hills, sterile, rocky, and frequently romantic in their aspect. One feature particularly attracted notice-viz. the dry condition of the various river beds he there observed, which were then without a drop of water, so that both men and animals appeared parched from thirst. When descending

afterwards to lower regions, first a puddle or two, and subsequently a small rill, indicated the actual existence of water; and lastly, as it began to flow in streams, both the eye and ear became delighted in thus beholding an element whose true value is best appreciated by its privation. Besides the varied beauties and engineering skill frequently exhibited along this excellent route, a capacious tunnel bored through one of the mountains deserves special remark, seeing it was constructed prior to the existence of railways; while, in the writer's estimation, this work appeared even more remarkable than the celebrated grotto of Posilippo, near Naples. The diligence took seven minutes to trot through its length, which is constantly lighted by a row of lamps on each side to prevent collision betwixt passengers, vehicles, or cattle proceeding in opposite directions. Altogether, this long tunnel confers great credit on the department and parties by whom it was constructed; while tourists who may visit Central France should not fail to select this district during their excursion.

From Aurillac to Capdenac, where the railway is joined which leads to Montauban, the drive by diligence was very like that of the previous day, being over a mountainous region rather arid, but both fine and picturesque. When descending from the high ground by Murat, and towards Villafranca, the zig-zag turnings of the road were numerous, and sometimes so abrupt that the carriage's rapid descent seemed dangerous, and it might have been easily hurled over into a valley beneath, especially as the parapet looked often rather scanty, if not entirely wanting. Nevertheless, this portion of the journey proved interesting; and the day being fine, the varied prospects of hill and dale thereby produced were frequently very attractive. The railway from Capdenac to Montauban much resembled that from Liége to Aix-la-Chapelle, in consequence of a continuous succession of tunnels through rocks or even high hills, along watercourses, by villages, and often near precipices; while various old dilapidated castles, formerly the strongholds of ancient robber chiefs, crowned adjacent heights, like those still seen on the Rhine or Moselle, in Germany. Not being prepared to find such romantic landscapes which this recently opened railway so often affords, the writer consequently felt more gratified. Without stopping at Montauban, he immediately proceeded by rail to Toulouse, which certainly merits a lengthened visit from curious tourists. However, the narrator's chief object in passing through the ancient capital of Languedoc being to reach, by the easiest mode, the frontier of Spain, he will, therefore, only now observe that this large and important city appeared but little changed from what it seemed nearly forty years ago, when the present tourist first perambulated its generally narrow, tortuous streets, or the extensive "place" where the Hôtel de Ville is situated, and usually called the "Capitolium." It merits examination, being considered, after the Hôtel de Ville of Lyons, one of the finest structures of the kind throughout France. From Toulouse there is now a continuous railway by Carcassonne and Narbonne to Perpignan, where the writer arrived on the seventh evening after leaving London, having only travelled during daytime, and never at night, as he considers the latter mode of proceeding through any, but especially a country visited for the first time, like so much labour lost, besides being otherwise an unprofitable expenditure of money, while it is certainly not judicious for tourists seeking either pleasure or information.

The only public mode of conveyance from Perpignan into Spain being by diligence, it is not always easy to obtain a seat in these vehicles, without encountering some delay, especially during summer or autumn, when idle travellers are generally most numerous. From this cause the writer was obliged to remain an entire day and two nights in Perpignan. But even had there been a vacant place in the diligence which left the forenoon after his arrival, he could have scarcely availed himself of that contingency, in consequence of the imperative formalities imposed on travellers in reference to passports. Since leaving Boulogne, this important document was never once asked for by an official, or any other person, while passing through the entire length of France, until its owner stepped on the railway platform at Perpignan, where a police officer civilly desired it should be given into his possession, and saying the party would have to call at the Préfecture next forenoon prior to departure. This command was, of course, obeyed, as, also, when it was further intimated that the Spanish consul's visa would be likewise absolutely necessary before any foreigner could enter Spain. Such additional formality the writer naïvely thought was superfluous, seeing his passport had been countersigned at the Spanish Embassy in London; but that frontier ceremony soon became fully explained, when a demand for twenty reals, or about four shillings and sixpence, was made in the consul's office for his signature. Respecting paying this charge, the writer could not help telling the official that, instead of taxing travellers going into Spain, the government ought rather to encourage, or even give a premium to such parties, seeing they come to spend money in the country, not to diminish its wealth. But the functionary's clerk did not, or would not, understand such political logic and economy, from perhaps thinking one silver "duro" was better deposited in his particular coffer, than if many others were distributed among hotel-keepers or diligence proprietors.

When wandering abroad, the writer always endeavours to comply with established customs, and to do, if possible, willingly what cannot be avoided, as also to take things as they happen, and try to smoothe rather than augment difficulties; since that which may be at first reckoned vexatious or unnecessary, sometimes proves beneficial by removing subsequent annoyances. This rule is especially true in reference to passports, and customs regulations throughout most districts of the Continent, but particularly so in Spain; therefore, all visitors to that country should constantly remember this advice, and so avoid future trouble; at least, such is one traveller's opinion, formed after ample experience. Before taking leave of Perpignan, general readers may perhaps desire to be informed that this city is more a fortress than a place of commerce, and commands the eastern entrance into Spain by the Pyrenees. It somewhat resembles a Spanish town, the dirty and generally narrow streets being covered with awnings, having often semi-moresque buildings and houses, which are also frequently furnished with balconies or patios, as in Spain; while many natives, especially the lower orders, bear considerable resemblance to those of Catalonia in their physiognomy, language, and costume; besides which, mules, as also donkeys, are no uncommon occupants of its thoroughfares.

Leaving Perpignan towards mid-day, the full and heavily laden French diligence, after passing over a wild but interesting route, amid rocks and cork-trees, with the cloud-capped Pyrenees on the right, arrived at the

village of "Pertus," where a gendarme, having examined the several passengers' passports, and found all were "en règle," officially gave permission to quit the French territory. Near the frontier a picturesque fort, called "Bellegrade," situated on a high elevation, and constructed by Louis XIV. to prevent incursions by the Spaniards into France, is rather remarkable; but it must be much more agreeable to look at from without, than to occupy as a residence, especially during winter, when surrounded by hills covered with snow, and exposed to every wind which blows, whatever may be its direction. The exact spot where the two countries join is marked by a square stone pillar on each side of the road; and after passing these indicators, a differently apparelled sentinel, and the Spanish flag suspended from its pole, showed the diligence and freight had now passed under the protection of Her Most Catholic Majesty, and in a country where smuggling or brigandage were common occupations of her lieges occupying this corner of the peninsula. As an illustration of contraband proceedings, even under the very eyes of officials, it may be mentioned that, when entering the frontier town of La Jonquera, in which the Spanish Aduana is situated, an inquiring face suddenly looked in at the diligence window, and asked "if any person had anything to take care of?" On which one of the passengers handed out a rather large parcel, which he had placed on his knees when quitting Pertus. Nothing particular was said, but a significant nod from the intruding countenance implied all would be arranged satisfactorily. Immediately afterwards the vehicle with its contents was carefully inspected by various Argus-eyed functionaries. Passports had also to be delivered to the police officer on duty for that purpose. After being examined and found correct, that of the writer was returned with a demand of eight reals, or upwards of two francs, as a fee for permission, according to a printed paper having his name written thereon, to enter Spain. As at Perpignan, arguments were used respecting such taxing of tourists, while otherwise obstructing their entry by vexatious regulations, and so forth; but a deaf ear was turned to every remark, and the official said he cared nothing for any London or other functionary, he must pocket the money before delivering up either document; hence, no course could be pursued excepting submission to armed authority.

In consequence of a fiesta being celebrated in La Jonquera, which would continue three days, this little town was full of visitors; while dancing and music in its central "plaza" attracted many spectators, where the red caps and gay dresses of a Catalan population made the spectacle rather attractive for travellers from more northern regions. After the aduana examinations were finished, the diligence again started, and just as it was leaving the place, a man presented himself at the carriage window, and handed in the mysterious-looking packet spoken of in a previous paragraph, whose owner now transferred some silver persuasives into the donor's palm, wherewith both parties were quite satisfied, the only injury inflicted being on the public revenue. Annoyed by dust, wind, and hot sunshine, the French diligence proceeded slowly on its way until Figueras was entered, where the passengers dined, towards eight in the evening. This meal constituted the first specimen of Spanish cookery; but neither the articles served, nor the bad wine, produced favourable impressions; indeed, the latter was scarcely drinkable. Afterwards, the party, with various additions, amounting to thirty-one human Jan.-VOL. CXVIII. NO. CCCCLXIX.

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beings altogether, embarked in a real Spanish diligence, actually drawn by a team of twelve mules and horses. The road was good, but being exceedingly dusty, with much wind, while forty-eight mules' or horses' feet, augmented by those of the often running" zogal," constantly kept the vehicle enveloped in an almost unrespirable atmosphere. The sufferings of this night's journey were great, if not unbearable, although comparatively less severe than those experienced when passing through Don Quixote's country, as will be mentioned subsequently. At Gerona, which was reached about two in the morning, an early Spanish breakfast was served, consisting of chocolate, cakes, and so forth; while a buffoon enlivened the still sleepy, fatigued party by dancing to one of his own comic songs, at which the audience were much amused, and soon laughed uproariously.

The road leading from Gerona is very tortuous, and, after approaching the sea-shore, it often winds round rocks close to precipices, thereby presenting occasionally rather romantic scenery, having on the left the Mediterranean. But clouds of dust being then prevalent, and these driven about by a strong wind from adjoining hills, this portion of the journey was quite otherwise than pleasant. Further, as an extra juvenile passenger, accompanying its fond parent, became sick, so as to soil the garments of other parties, this occurrence, with the hot weather and intense sunshine, rendered matters almost intolerable. However, at last the diligence drove up to the railway station at Arenys de Mar, which truly proved, after twenty-four hours' imprisonment in an uncomfortable, crowded vehicle, a most happy deliverance. Subsequent to the painful journey here briefly described, to travel twenty-three miles by the rail which leads along the coast to Barcelona was an agreeable change; the more so, as several villages, both marine and inland, were then passed. Having on one side the smooth Mediterranean sea, whereon several vessels were sailing, with the high grounds of Catalonia on the traveller's right hand, this hour and a half's drive afforded occasionally rather pretty prospects of a district teeming with an actively occupied population. When the terminus at Barceloneta was ultimately reached, notwithstanding great heat and dust still prevailed, the writer felt glad that the first stage of his Spanish holiday tour, amounting to nearly eleven hundred and fifty English miles, had been thus far successfully accomplished; while he further confidently anticipated numerous 66 cosas di España" would henceforward likely come under notice requiring criticism, besides seeing many things well worthy of contemplation.

Barcelona, so famous in the ancient history of Catalonia, and the capital of that formerly powerful kingdom, is still a place of great importance; indeed, it now constitutes the commercial, manufacturing, and maritime metropolis of Spain. In many respects this Mediterranean port is a finer and better situated town than Madrid; while the environs are far superior, being a rich and fertile plain, surrounded by somewhat elevated hills at a considerable distance, and having the sea for its base. The population reaches to one hundred and fifty thousand, or two hundred and thirty thousand if the suburbs be included, and, therefore, constitutes the second city in Spain, when classed according to the number of inhabitants. On entering Barcelona, from the railway station, strangers are much struck by its general aspect. The large Plaza del Palacio, with the splendid Custom-house on one side, and a rather elegant fountain in the centre,