BOOK THE SIXTH.

CHAPTER I.

ON THE GRAND TOUR.

SEPTEMBER, 1763.

AFTER this pleasant visit, he returned to town, and was busy with his preparations for the journey they were about to make. The "grand tour," if it was then a delightful progress, had also its responsibilities. He was really going for a holiday; he certainly took with him the resolution of never appearing on the stage again-unless the remedy for his temporary unpopularity was successful. He had a fond hope that it would be. Before going, he had appointed Colman to look after his interests in the theatre; he made arrangements for the appearance of a clever clerk, whom he had heard "spouting" at the Wood Street Debating Club, beyond Temple Bar, and who, he thought, would fairly support lover parts, during his absence. He did not dream that the terrible cry, "a rival!" would be raised. Finally, on the 15th of September, the very night his theatre opened, he and Mrs. Garrick, and their little dog, set off down to Dover.

As we have seen, nearly two years before, he had told Sterne, then starting off for Paris, that he was

VOL. II.

I

soon likely to visit that capital. Roscius, indeed, delighted in good company, and had long since discovered the truth, that the "finest" company is the most agreeable. The startling success of Sterne in Paris, whom the wits and "élégans" of Paris were loading with attentions - honours written home to Southampton Street, in a sort of rapture, stimulated his eagerness and when he heard from his friend that at "two great houses" his own gifts and genius had formed the staple of the conversation during the whole of a dinner party; all wondering how he could be so great in two such opposite walks of acting, it was very natural he should look forward to coming and receiving this homage in person.

He found little change in the state of the people from his first journey, though this time, he took a different route for variety. He came up by, what is now the beaten track, St. Omer and Arras. The accommodation and impositions were nearly the same: "for which the English may thank themselves; they wish to appear rich and generous," and in consequence were charged above double what the French paid.* As they posted along, the country parts appeared to him more thriving, the roads good, and every acre cultivated, though there was but little enclosure. The poverty of the people was very remarkable; and the carriers, whom he often talked with on the road, complained sorely of the oppressive taxes.

At Calais he put up-not at the famous Dessein's, but at the Table Royal-" a good and reasonable house, with civil and obliging people." Here he was waited

on by that notorious little barber, who seems to have seen—or shaved-every English person of note who came through; for he is described by Mrs. Radcliffe, is found simpering in a corner of the Sentimental Journey, and was now come to shave the great actor. A conceited prattling petit maître, who told him that the officers there received no pay, and were really destitute. They had a very pleasant journey, met with no accidents, and were entering Paris in high spirits, when they were stopped at the barrier by the customhouse officers; and though their trunks had been duly plombed at Calais to ensure through transmission, they were searched en personne, and having mislaid their passe, were led off with indignity to the customhouse, to have their trunks opened once more. the director of the customs, M. D'Aguemont, treated them with great civility. This was the evening of Monday, September 19th.*

But

In a day or two he bought a little blank book, which he determined to fill with notes of his travels; a journal, in short-"meant to bring to my mind the various things I shall see in my journey into Italy."Properly it was to be a record of his "opinions and feelings." "For," he writes, "I shall always put down my thoughts immediately, as I am struckwithout the least attention to what has been said by writers of great and little repute.-D. GARRICK." Which is indeed the true plan to make a journal of any interest; but for all this official declaration, the journal began to languish very soon, and covers but a few pages. Very soon the seductions of dinners, and

*MS. Journal. -A rapid journey.

parties, and excursions, absorbed all his time,-the pleasures that have past always seem poor, and not worth recording, beside those that are coming on.

Undoubtedly, the most singular feature of the time was the "Anglo-mania," then raging. It seems quite ludicrous. In the shops Shakspeare and Swift were to be bought, like ordinary French books; and it was almost comic to find eager Frenchmen poring, and blundering, over the great English poet, and straining hard to fancy in themselves something like admiration, for what they could not understand. Sterne's Count, who took the Sentimental traveller for the Yorick of "Hamlet," was but the type of more serious blunderers. But, allowing a good deal for the mere fashion of the thing, it was natural that English company should be relished, for the English that travelled were not the English that have travelled since. There were but three classes who at that time travelled or made the Grand Tour: Englishmen of rank, for whom it was the last term of their university education; Englishmen of wealth; and Englishmen of wit and genius. Getting to Paris was expensive, and the "grand tour" was a yet more costly luxury. Everyone setting out, took with him letters to every Court; at every Court was treated handsomely, perhaps welcomed into Royal society, stayed his six weeks, enjoyed himself delightfully, then got out his chaise, and "posted" on to another Court. Paris had been lately full of such men as Lord Shelburne, Lord Carlisle, Mr. Fitzmaurice, Wilkes, Sterne, Walpole, Foote, Garrick, Hume, and many more; and the year Garrick was there Lord Hertford, the ambassador, entertained nearly a hundred English, on the King's birthday.

There were many coteries or societies all ready to welcome him. First, that of Baron D'Holbach's, who gave his little dinners every Sunday and Thursday.* Here was to be met the most delightful company possible, and the guests ranged from ten to twenty in number. The host's fancy was to discover clever and distinguished strangers, and this must have given his parties their charm. The regular habitués were remarkable; Grimm and Diderot, Helvetius and the mercurial Abbé Morellet, who was so lively in discussion. The dinner was good, but a little grosse. There was excellent wine and coffee; it began at two, but the guests often remained until seven. The conversation was made up of the liveliest discussions, but without warm or angry disputes. Madame D'Holbach sat in a corner, talking in a low voice; while the greater esprits decided greater questions. Helvetius had the Wednesdays, with very much the same elements; but the result was not considered so good. For though Madame Helvetius sat listening, like Madame D'Holbach, she was very pretty, and drew round her chair the grands esprits, thus demoralising the serious tone of the society. Madame Necker secured the Fridays; Grimm, who lived in the Faubourg St. Germain, had his night; and Madame Geoffrin a yet more remarkable circle of her own.

The moment Garrick arrived the universal homage set in. He was at once made free of " the synagogue in the Rue Royale," and the "little sanctuary in the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs." He was heaped with honours; he was almost ashamed to write home the

The year before he had three dinners a week, according to Sterne's experience.